Haltech and A341e

[Sudsy]

Sorry, I'm not familiar with the Haltech loom. I made my own to fit my elite 2500. Re-pinned a Wolf V550 loom to Haltech.
I've found Haltech stuff to be pretty good, but hey they are just humans.
I agree you should read close to 0V on DPO6 when the ign. is on. The reason why I say close to zero volts, will depend on how hard the driver switches to ground with the load you have on it, and if its just a normal relay then it should be pretty much 0V. If the load was say 10Ohms, then you might read a couple of volts as the driver can only push 1A to supply.
However there are other conditions that must be met for you to see a switched Gnd @ A25 (DPO6) and switch the relay on. Most 12V relays will operate with about 8Volts on them and will hold down to about 6V
The only thing that should be connected to A25, (DPO6) is the ECR relay coil (pin 85) and the other side of it (86) connects to battery. The relay coil should measure approx 120 - 200Ohm between 85 & 86.
1) You must also have a Gnd on A10 & A11.
2) You must have ign. switched +12V on A13.
If the above checks out, I would disconnect the ECR relay (85) from A25 DPO6 and connect a low wattage test lamp (something that drags less than 1A) to A25 and the other side of the test lamp to battery. Switch the ignition on (ie. power on A13) the test lamp should light. Measure the voltage at A25 (should be your Gnd). If that works then you got something else connected to DPO6 loading to battery +ve.
That is DPO6 doesn't have enough balls to drive to ground cos of the load is pulling it to battery.
If you were close by, I drop round and give ya a hand, but SA is a little way a way.
Good luck. Hope this is of help.

Yes i have checked all the possible things. Spent some time with a Haltech tech this morning as well but still no joy. Not too concerned with the voltage at the grey and red when switched off but still can't find why i have constant power as S1. Am sending the ecu to Haltech for testing just for piece of mind before i totally remove the loom from the car and open it up further. Unfortunately all the electrics are mounted in the left kick panel of a 37 Chev and is very awkward to check things. Have open a lot of the loom already and found nothing

 

[Sudsy]

Well ECU is all good according to Haltech. The power on grey and red is due to backfeeding through the relay coils on their relay box ( knew i should have built my own) as they have battery power at the coils all the time. Plugged everything in yesterday and still no reverse when electronics connected to trans. Loom is opened right up and all seems good. I will try and disconnect each power wire to the trans one at a time and see what i find. Thanks to all who have tried to help so far. I wil keep you informed. Have been told that power at S1 should not stop reverse working so that is where i will start.

 

[ivan129]

With all the looms to the trans disconnected the trans will still engage reverse when the shift is moved to reverse.
If its low on trans fluid, that can make it lazy to pickup reverse. I found that with my trans after a shift kit install yonks ago. Added about another litre of trany fluid and she came good.

 

[Sudsy]

With all the looms to the trans disconnected the trans will still engage reverse when the shift is moved to reverse.
If its low on trans fluid, that can make it lazy to pickup reverse. I found that with my trans after a shift kit install yonks ago. Added about another litre of trany fluid and she came good.

All works fine with electronics removed. I think i have found the problem. Will post outcome after i test it today

 

[Sudsy]

I don't think i mentioned it on here but the problem started after i had a hiccup with the software while test driving originally. It was changing but not well so went back to the workshop to change a few settings in the map. Went for another drive and my software shut down and started up a couple of times in the short drive and then changed erraticaly so i went back and checked things and a few more changes to the map. Thats when i ended up with no reverse. Well after all this time chasing the problem somehow when the software played up my S1 and S2 got switched over (don't ask me how as it was all working before the hiccup and i didn't change it) Anyway after checking on the weekend i found the problem and switched them over to where they should have been and all working properly now. Just have a bit of tuning on the gearchanges to do. Up shift isn't too bad but doesn't want to kick down unless slowed right down but im'm sure its just settings on one of the maps i have to play with.. Thanks to all for the help

 

[P Bateman]

Glad you have it worked out. If you need some advice on the shift table map, just say so.

 

[Sudsy]

Glad you have it worked out. If you need some advice on the shift table map, just say so.

Thanks mate. Just have to sort the kickdown a bit better but still driveable as is. Just doesn't kick down below 3rd unless nearly stopped so i'm sure its just the seetings i have to play with