Engine cutting out

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crownv8

New Member
Messages
27
Location
Caboolture, QLD
I have put a 1uz from a uzs131 into a 1976 Crown. It has been running great until last night. It cut out on the road. Sort of cut in and out a few times and then died. Then after a while it started again only to cut out a few minutes later. I got it towed home and now it will run but then just stop for no apparant reason. It feels more electrical than fuel. As soon as it cuts all the red lights come on and they were coming on and off as it cut in and out on the road.

When it runs it is perfect. No engine light flashing and the O/D light flashes because I am yet to connect the second speed sensor.

I guess my question is: Does anyone have any ideas?????

I have checked the wiring and relays and everything seems ok. I'm stumped???

The other thing is I tried to get engine codes and when I bridge TE1 and E1 all I get is the O/D light flashing.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Shane.

BTW I'm in Queensland, Australia.
 
sounds like one of those phantom electrical problems. All I'd suggest doing is taking it for a test drive with all of your tools in the back and when it cuts out, pull out your trusty multimeter to check your main ignition circuit against your wiring diagram. I had a similar problem on a car that I wired up once, turned out it was just poor workmanship in the wiring...

The other thing to check is whether it has enough fuel in it... or if you can hear your fuel pump cutting out when it stalls (it should run on for a couple of seconds when you turn the ignition off normally)

Muzz
 
Well I got it to run again and as usual it was running smooth and sounded good. No check lights flashing. This time when it cut out I checked a few things. There is plenty of fuel. There is power to the ignitors. There is power to the computer, both battery + and the two ignition + wires. There is no spark. Nothing from either coil. So whatever it is must be common to both coils.

I'm wondering if the crank angle sensor could be a problem. What ever it is the second it happens the engine check light and the alternator lights come on. Even though the engine is still "winding down" the system thinks the engine is completely still.

I would love to get the codes working to see if anything comes up.

I also would love it not to be a computer failure.

Shane.
 
I started it before and left it idling in the garage and it idled for about 5 minutes and then just stopped. That's when I checked a few things over. It just loses spark for some reason.

Then I left it sit for about half and hour and it was right again.
 
I finally got the computer to give me a code. I started the car today and it ran until it warmed up and then stopped. I am getting code 13. I have searched and it seems to point toward crank angle sensor, wiring or ECU.

So I am off to try and find out which one it is.

Shane.
 
I have checked the wiring and I have continuity from the crank sensor to the ecu. On both sensor wores. I put it all back together and it wouldn't start and now the computer is giving me code 12. That seems to be the same area as code 13.

Probably the cheapest thing to try first is the sensor. But it is looking more like the ecu has failed. :-(

Any help with this is greatly appreciated.
 
Thanks for the offer. I am going to run a new wire down to the sensor and see how that goes. Maybe there is a break or a bad connection???
 
It has been on the road about a month and I use it full time. I wired it myself and have had it running for about 12 months. I split the loom up carefully from the front cut and no ecu/ect/engine wires were cut. Just earthed what was needed and supplied power to what was needed using Kdog's diagrams.

Up until now it has been running like a champion. I have given it a couple of good runs. I did a run up the coast a few days ago, about an hour each way, with no troubles.
 
I finally got some time to look at the car today. I revised the wiring and found the power wire for the auto solenoids was wired connected up to the wrong power supply so that is all good now.

I ran the car and waited for it to stop. This time there was no continuity in the crank angle sensor circuit. It was all good down to the sensor so I checked and it was open circuit. If I bumped it though it would jump anywhere from 800 to 1100 ohms and back to open circuit. Once it cooled down the car would start it was good. Now every time it stops the crank sensor is open circuit until it cools down.

I'm going to call Lexus tomorrow to buy one, unless someone knows a better supplier. It about $165 from them.

Thanks for your help guys.
 
I picked up the new sensor today.

The car was running in the garage for 1/2 hour. That's about three times longer than it has run for the last week. It seems that the crank sensor was the problem. The Lexus guy said they don't sell too many crank sensors so obviously I got a dud.

Thanks to all those that offered advice.

Cheers,
Shane.
 


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