This is one of the great things and one of the bad things about conversions. We all do things differently. I use both the idler unit when I can and do the modifacation to the hydraulic fan pump on many of my conversions and ones Ive helped without the need for custom radiators. I have even used the hydraulic pump in hilux 4x4. I am presently working on a bolt in alloy radiator for surf as well. Already have extractors for surf as well. Your machining job looks good. Cheers
`92 surf v6 5 speed manual 1uzfe conversion
- Thread starter dudescar
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I try to do everything as per Toyota made it and keep everything as a bolt on part right down to keeping driveline angles as original. The only non Toyota bit is I have to use the top hose from an XG Falcon ute. Radiators.. Sorted.. Standard diesel Surf does cut the mustard in Perth even on over 40 degree days. Had a huge argument with the guys from Desert coolers at Motorvation "You'll never get a 1U to cool with a diesel Surf radiator, they can't cool the 2L-TE" "Really?" "Yes!" "Here's the keys, the Surf is over there. Go and tell it that"..
Extractors..Sorted.. Mercury mufflers are jigging them up as we speak. Try Y type and a full on bolt on exhaust system 2.5 or 3 inch single. Still in prototype stages but should be over the counter soon..
Hey Gloverman is yours the only shop in Hammy that does the 1U swaps as a mate of mine got ripped something chronic to take an auto out and put and R150 in and then they only did half the job. Excuse given was that the boss was sick and I think that he's about ready to insert the entire car up someones rear end..
Dudescar I'm only trying to help you make a great job of it and give the tribute to your boy that is deserved. That is stick the key in it when done. it goes and you enjoy it, change the oil every 6 months and maybe after a couple of hundred thousand click you might need to replace something
So your saying the auto KZN130 needs the box moved forward 20mm is that right?
Im guessing this requires lenghtening the driveshaft also?
And obviously modified mounts?
Trademe is your friend.. Gearbox crossmember and both front and rear driveshafts from the LN130 which is the 2.4 Diesel Surf (grab the shifter rod as well) and aside from your engine mount brackets and sump bowl to clear the steering there aint no mods or fabrication aside from your choice of exhaust rest is just plumbing and wiring
samsdad
Member
I try to do everything as per Toyota made it and keep everything as a bolt on part right down to keeping driveline angles as original. The only non Toyota bit is I have to use the top hose from an XG Falcon ute. Radiators.. Sorted.. Standard diesel Surf does cut the mustard in Perth even on over 40 degree days. Had a huge argument with the guys from Desert coolers at Motorvation "You'll never get a 1U to cool with a diesel Surf radiator, they can't cool the 2L-TE" "Really?" "Yes!" "Here's the keys, the Surf is over there. Go and tell it that"..
Extractors..Sorted.. Mercury mufflers are jigging them up as we speak. Try Y type and a full on bolt on exhaust system 2.5 or 3 inch single. Still in prototype stages but should be over the counter soon..
Hey Gloverman is yours the only shop in Hammy that does the 1U swaps as a mate of mine got ripped something chronic to take an auto out and put and R150 in and then they only did half the job. Excuse given was that the boss was sick and I think that he's about ready to insert the entire car up someones rear end..
Dudescar I'm only trying to help you make a great job of it and give the tribute to your boy that is deserved. That is stick the key in it when done. it goes and you enjoy it, change the oil every 6 months and maybe after a couple of hundred thousand click you might need to replace something
samsdad
Member
I love your milling machine.. And From the look of the pics what you have done will work and all for the cost of some bearings and time..
I have a fun one on my plate now. Set up an engine to go into a VZN130 but he wants auto and purchased a complete UZS131 Crown. Trouble is he wants auto and putting a transfer case on the back of this auto is not as simple as using a Celsior/LS400 engine/trans package as I have to strip the trans, swap out the mainshaft and machine the pickup for no2 speed sensor to fit the new shaft. On the bright side he will end up with a fully overhauled trans and whole package ready to fit. Yet he seems to expect it ready tomorrow. Um we live in WA and there is a saying here "WA.. Wait A while.. Wait A while longer"..
Feel glad that you're only doing one. By the way extractors are getting jigged as we speak. Tri-Y type based on RZN169 Hilux manual with clutch slave on the drivers (R/H) side. I have asked Glenn that we wait until I can give him mine for a couple of weeks as then some 130 series can be done to know that they will fit
I have a fun one on my plate now. Set up an engine to go into a VZN130 but he wants auto and purchased a complete UZS131 Crown. Trouble is he wants auto and putting a transfer case on the back of this auto is not as simple as using a Celsior/LS400 engine/trans package as I have to strip the trans, swap out the mainshaft and machine the pickup for no2 speed sensor to fit the new shaft. On the bright side he will end up with a fully overhauled trans and whole package ready to fit. Yet he seems to expect it ready tomorrow. Um we live in WA and there is a saying here "WA.. Wait A while.. Wait A while longer"..
Feel glad that you're only doing one. By the way extractors are getting jigged as we speak. Tri-Y type based on RZN169 Hilux manual with clutch slave on the drivers (R/H) side. I have asked Glenn that we wait until I can give him mine for a couple of weeks as then some 130 series can be done to know that they will fit
So your saying the auto KZN130 needs the box moved forward 20mm is that right?
Im guessing this requires lenghtening the driveshaft also?
And obviously modified mounts?
samsdad
Member
Trademe is your friend.. Gearbox crossmember and both front and rear driveshafts from the LN130 which is the 2.4 Diesel Surf (grab the shifter rod as well) and aside from your engine mount brackets and sump bowl to clear the steering there aint no mods or fabrication aside from your choice of exhaust rest is just plumbing and wiring
I like the sound of that.
Kelvins engine mounts.
Front sump motor
2.4 Diesel driveshaft & gearbox x member. (Im planning on running my KZ Box)
Bellhousing adaptor.
And all should bolt up a ok then?
Sounds good to me.
What radiator setup are you running/planning to run samsdad
Kelvins engine mounts.
Front sump motor
2.4 Diesel driveshaft & gearbox x member. (Im planning on running my KZ Box)
Bellhousing adaptor.
And all should bolt up a ok then?
Sounds good to me.
What radiator setup are you running/planning to run samsdad
samsdad
Member
No you'll be using the auto that comes with the 1UZ and putting your transfer box on the back lest you be wondering why you have a box full of neutrals.
Radiators I run the standard diesel surf unit with a Spal 16 inch thermofan. They're upto the task and keep mine cool of 40+ days in Perth
Radiators I run the standard diesel surf unit with a Spal 16 inch thermofan. They're upto the task and keep mine cool of 40+ days in Perth
samsdad
Member
Right.. Take the core plug out. Place a fitting in there to use 5/8 heater hose. You will also need an adapter to join that hose to the 3/4 hose as this will connect to the idle air control valve. On the other side this will now go to power steer idle up. This is what I meant to take pics of and post but the outwork on the current build. Well they made a few boo boos so I've gone 10 steps backwards and have been flat out on other work.. Not happy. So much for time off over easter...
foz read the toyotasurf site again. On Woodbutchers build there is a link that shows you how to put the transfer box on the back of a Celsior or Soarer auto. If your donk is out of a UZS131 or 141 crown you open a whole different kettle of fish as they have a different output shaft which needs to be changed out. Not hard to do but this opens up an entire shipping container of worms not just a tin of them. Wiring you remove the speedo wiring from the Celsior and add in the 4wd wiring from the Surf and its speedo pick up. Best done after you put the transfer box on
foz read the toyotasurf site again. On Woodbutchers build there is a link that shows you how to put the transfer box on the back of a Celsior or Soarer auto. If your donk is out of a UZS131 or 141 crown you open a whole different kettle of fish as they have a different output shaft which needs to be changed out. Not hard to do but this opens up an entire shipping container of worms not just a tin of them. Wiring you remove the speedo wiring from the Celsior and add in the 4wd wiring from the Surf and its speedo pick up. Best done after you put the transfer box on
just a curious question...a 2.4 diesel radiator will do the job, my 3 ltr diesel overheats after 5 km with my 2.8 ton of boat behind it,(lucky the boat ramp is only 5 km away) yet the v6 towed it 200 km with no heating problem. my 2.4 diesel that i had couldn`t pull the skin off a rice pudding.... most likely there is something wrong with the cooling on the 3 ltr deisel. i guess the question is..what difference is there between a 3 ltr diesel radiator and the 2.4...just in case a 3 liter one happens along at the right price, would it do the job. just wondering as generally you only get to cook alloy once, but then most people wont be pullin 5 ton with their 1uz-fe(car and boat all up weight)
samsdad
Member
Yes well the OEM gauges work like this.. "I'm ok' I'm ok I'm ok. I might be getting a bit warm now.. Oh SH!T it's too late!"
In your case I'd run a KZN130 (3.0 Surf) Radiator with a modified HZJ75 'Cruiser core in it and given the larger oil capacity of the sump that you are building an external engine oil cooler with the spal fan wired up to the fuel pump relay. That is engine is running so fan is on, be sure to add a switch so if you want to go play in the mud you can turn the fan off when needed. The motors in them have the duty cycle to cope with this. By that I mean running all day every day
In your case I'd run a KZN130 (3.0 Surf) Radiator with a modified HZJ75 'Cruiser core in it and given the larger oil capacity of the sump that you are building an external engine oil cooler with the spal fan wired up to the fuel pump relay. That is engine is running so fan is on, be sure to add a switch so if you want to go play in the mud you can turn the fan off when needed. The motors in them have the duty cycle to cope with this. By that I mean running all day every day
samsdad
Member
Spal fan Datsport in south Aus are the best pace to get them from $195AUD plus post and the one you need is 63mm high. It's apparently only rated at 1600CFM but fits and the motor has the duty cycle to run all day every day. Mine is triggered by the fuel pump relay and runs all the time when the engine is running unless I want to turn it off for one reason or another. It does not overheat on 45 degree plus days but the temp has crept up with the A/C running but there is a reason for that but I'm awaiting feedback from another guy who is not a member here on fitting an item that we have discovered that is missing from the "Hybrid" system that will reduce head pressure on the A/C compressor.
Wiring.. Do not think that you are going to get that done in a day.. Try a week before you even try to turn the key. You will encounter a few problems esp with two trouble codes but I will take you through that when you get that far. We will need to go back to the Toyota part no off the ECU for that
Wiring.. Do not think that you are going to get that done in a day.. Try a week before you even try to turn the key. You will encounter a few problems esp with two trouble codes but I will take you through that when you get that far. We will need to go back to the Toyota part no off the ECU for that
samsdad
Member
You shouldn't need to balance the flywheel, It's a 4wd so aint going to be running at full noise all day. Clutch place a 2-3mm flat washer between the pivot ball and bell housing and the rest will be taken care of when you set the slave cyl up so on a new clutch it should start to take up (engage) when the pedal is 20mm off the floor, Expect to spend a day or two on this and the results will be worth the effort.. Black thing is the charcoal cannister. On the L/H side of the inlet manifold is what is called a VSV (Vacuum switch valve) there is a vacuum hose from the manifold going to the VSV then one which will be cut off, this connects to the small hose on the charcoal cannister and the rest remains as per it was when the V6 was there. Activation for this will be taken care of when you wire the engine up and if any regulations over there change re emissions will keep the powers that be happy when it comes time for cert. This will also go hand in hand for wiring up the sub O2s and when you do the exhaust as with the UCF20 engine and engine management system you should get 10km/L fuel consumption with normal driving and around 12 driven harder or under load (towing) on 4.56 diffs which yours should have. To confirm I'll need all of the numbers off the silver plate in the middle of the firewall, Diff code starts with G2** or G1**
Wiring no drama you have my contact details and I am more than happy to send you all of the wiring diagrams as said before. But the Surf ones are in Japanese
Wiring no drama you have my contact details and I am more than happy to send you all of the wiring diagrams as said before. But the Surf ones are in Japanese
