8 rib pulley belts

[JustenGT8]

Anyone know if there's a decent range of sizes in 8 rib belts for an SC (M112)? My SC will be working pretty hard so would like to keep the 8 rib pulleys it currently has but i will need a different belt length.

 

[Lextreme II]

It depends on if you are going to run one belt or two belts. Two belts system might be easier and I think Richwood can supply you with a 8 rib crank pulley. However, if you want to run a single 8 ribs belt and power everything, then you would need to change all of the current pulleys to 8 ribs.

* Idler Pulley
* Alternator Pulley
* Tensior Pulley
* AC Pulley
* Powersteering Pulley

Very expensive and perhaps would call for custom work. I am using a a 6 ribs for my M112. Its made by Billetflow and they offer both the standard 8 ribs and custom 6 ribs.

 

[cribbj]

I'm going to need to start searching for drive belts soon too. I have the complete 8 rib replacement set of pulleys, including the dampner but haven't done my homework yet concerning the drive belts.

Who knows the generic reference for our serpentine belts? Are they a "H", "J", "K", "L" or another common section for poly v-belts?

 

[JustenGT8]

I'm only using an 8 rib SC pulley and a custom 8 rib pulley bolted to the front of the stock crank pulley. The crank pulley will use the stock crank bolt but also the two puller holes in the stock crank pulley......some extra load off the end of the crank but this won't be a big revving engine so i'm confident it'll all be good.

Anyways,, given it's just a single shortish belt can you point be at options?

 

[Peewee]

Justen, Richwood make a complete set of 8 rib pulley (incl harmonic balancer crank pulley).

As for the price, I don't know.
But when you find out, PM me!


EDIT - you want belt, not pulley, my bad. Richwood still may be able to help.

 

[Thermactor]

i sent richwood an e-mail asking about 8-rib pulleys and they weren't helpful at all. they didn't give me any price quotes or any information at all regarding the matter. i dont know how they can sell anything to people with this kind of attitude, at this rate they couldn't sell me a dollar for fifty cents.

 

[cribbj]

I think Andrew (Richwood) has been swamped with inquiries about a new line of products he and his company are bringing out. I hope I'm not talking out of school about it, but it will be a very low profile, integrated intake manifold & twin screw supercharger. There are some knockoffs of this already out from various parties, but Richwood hold the actual patent for it.

Initially the applications will be for the GM LS motors, and the Ford & Mopar mod motors, but I understand the 3UZ VVTi isn't far behind.

He wrote me recently and apologised for not being more available here, but he's simply overloaded. Too, I think the PRI show was this last week and that's always a "must go to" for people like him.

I'm waiting for a set of Opcon-Autorotor drive pulleys from him in order to finish my project, and I've had to delay my next dyno session because of it, so don't feel like you're Lone Ranger ;-)

Here's a photo of his integrated unit for the Ford V10, mounted in a Mustang.

 

[cribbj]

I've been doing a bit of homework on our belts, and it appears the stock belts on the 1UZ are a 6 rib type "K" section.

According to the industry standard metric designation they are called a 6PK belt (6P for 6 polyrib configuration). The generic reference for the early LS400 is a 6PK2240, and for the early SC400 is a 6PK2275, with the 2240 meaning millimeters of length, and likewise 2275mm for the SC belt. These are internal measurements.

For the American standard (set by Gates) they are still referred to as a K section belt, but Gates' P/N is a K060882 for the LS400 and K060895 for the SC400, with the K06 meaning a 6 rib polyrib configuration, and the 0882 meaning 88.2 inches, and the 0895 meaning 89.5 inches. Again, these are internal measurements.

With this decoding, it's pretty straightforward to find an 8 rib belt of nearly any length from 31 to 138 inches (780mm to 3500mm).

Justen, I have both the metric and imperial catalogs here, so if you know the approximate internal or external measurement of the belt you need, I can do a cut & paste of the Gates or Bando part numbers for a few that are in the range.

Note, If you have a broken belt, and measure its length, you'll have an external length which you'll have to convert to an internal length measurement. There are tables for this in the catalogs.

 

[JustenGT8]

Cheers cribbj,
At this stage i'd only have a very approximate length but at least i'll know if i'll be in the ballpark.

 

[cribbj]

Yeah, if you can guess or measure your routing with a bit of twine or thin rope, we should be able to get you in the ballpark with a range of P/N's. I have both the Bando (metric) and Gates (imperial) catalogs here.

Just don't buy belts from Veco, they have a nonstandard system that falls between internal and external measurement of the belt. But then, the French always have their own way of doing things.....

 

[Lextreme II]

Gents,

I got this file from a Gates Tech person. Check it out http://lextreme.com/misc/Gates.xls

 

[cribbj]

Now THAT'S handy! Did he happen to give you the outer lengths corresponding to each of those P/N's? They're in the catalog, but it would be a PITA to type them all.

 

[Lextreme II]

John,

Actually the part number represent the length of the belt. It has been a while but I hope someone can jump in.

This part number for example:
K060645

K06 means 6 ribs
645 means 64.5" inches

 

[cribbj]

David, have a look at post #8 below. The P/N of the belt decodes to give the internal length, but it's useful to know their outer lengths too, as that's what people can measure easily.

With these thin "K" section belts, the difference is only between 0.50 or 0.65 of an inch so it's probably not that big a deal, but it might save a trip to the auto parts store.

 

[striker]

Now that's usefull guy's

hopefully tommorow the second charger will go on and this was exactly what i was wondering about, perfect timing.

As for the measurement of the internal length. I always do that with a piece of very thin stripped electrical wire, you can tie that very nice to a pully and route it through the various pully's make sure you have the same groove on each pully, mark the "in" and "out" points with a permanent marker, cut the wire, take it of the engine and measure it up on the workbench. locost and very effective.

worked for me in many occasions.

grtz Thomas