1478hp turbo'd 4.0L 1uz-fe monster!!!!!

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
lol... serious, this is too easy

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PS - only correcting you is getting boring. the information, however, never is. just gotta know where to look ;) though if you prefer to hurl yourself upon the nearest hook, be my guest, its worthy entertainment
 
Aaron ole buddy, I love Ed and it's not as bad as it looks... He always keeps me entertained and corrected on the forum, so how can I hate him for that? I can take my balls getting busted every now and then.....Sometimes though I must fire back, as we all have some pride to defend......

Ok, let's get back to the topic at hand...Dragster horsepower!!!!!....

Order is restored I hope...:beerchug:
 
Ed does have a tag team partner that loves to step in and blast away... But so far so good, no sign of the lad...... I hope I didn't speak too soon...

Besides, when is the last time all hell broke loose on this forum? Me thinks the last time was when I raised a little hell on the HTM forum years back and put you moderators to work with the carry over effect?? Remember Aaron, you almost banned me for that one..... OOooops, My bad...:27:
 
....Like Ed wrote:

...rockhampton boys are running 7.62s 1/4 on grouted but stock block and untouched crank

So I think for a "bulletproof" UZ block that you want to use in a street legal car, you will be OK with partially grouting the UZ (the lower part of the block, so no heat issues) and for some extra HP you might want to consider sleeving....Nitrating the stock crank is also a good option...

Good luck splitting a block like that in a street car...impossible!:biggrin:

Our partially grouted 1UZ:

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Fast Eddie - So when the block is partially grouted can you and do you still run fluids thru it? I would think the partial grout job would have a greater chance of breaking up or cracking inside the block with all the vibration that goes on......

Sorry I ask so many basic questions everyone, I just am not that familiar with the technical stuff that goes into drag racing... Very cool stuff though..


Wow, those stock UZ cranks can really hold huge power, that's good to know...
 
Yes, off course there still runs cooling fluid through the block (thats why its partially grouted)...the fluid will mainly cool the upper part of the block, where the pistons create the most heat...and by grouting you dont increase the chances of cracking/breaking etc....!
 
Can be used on street engines, but depending on engine an oil cooler is recommended. The oil cools the lower part of block, heat can build up..
If you did this to a block your obviously wanting to put power through it!!
So there's two reasons why oil needs cooling...
A larger capacity sump helps...
 
Yes, off course there still runs cooling fluid through the block (thats why its partially grouted)...the fluid will mainly cool the upper part of the block, where the pistons create the most heat...and by grouting you dont increase the chances of cracking/breaking etc....!

care to share some more details on how you went about the grout job....looking at doing something like this myself
 
I also am curious, you must use an epoxy mix or something other then grout to get it to harden and stick.. I am curious as to the "grout" you use that wont break off, or vibrate to pieces within the engine block.. I know common tile grout could never hold up or stick to the block well enough over time.....
 
Rocket industries have Moroso Block Filler.. Part # MO 35571
I used this on std block 5.0 turbo Ford...
Filled to welsh plugs..
 
At what WHP are they normally splitting the blocks? What kind of driving are they exposing the engines to?

Thanks,

Ryan

only PSI performance are splitting blocks. they're a huge advocator of the 1UZ, then tell you that you need a billet or grout filled block, new crank, rods, pistons.....
 


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