12mm head studs

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dass

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Anyone have any ideas on part No. for some 12mm head studs for a 1uzfe,as I will be running high boost and would like to go to 12mm over the std 10mm.
Darren
 
12mm or 1/2" appears to be a good up-grade after reading that thread.
Problem being the drilling and tapping is the easy ,just that ARP have no listing on replacing the 110mm bolt with a 12mm / 1/2" stud or bolt.I supose a 12.9 grade cap head bolt would do the job (unbrako or similar).
Darren .
 
10mm L19 material, and forget about it. No one on this board has run near enough cylinder pressure to warrant 1/2" stud conversion.

Eric
 
A mate of mine is have head gasket problems with his 1uz in a mq patrol.He is running twin gt28 making 580 rwhp.I have just lent him a set of mls late model gaskets and he is going to studs as well.I have had headgaskets blow on the 2jzgte (hks & arp studs). So I am thinking for an hour or so on the milling machine why not.Will be runninng a gt4245 ,big Dean Tighe cams ,Peformance springs,supra exhaust valves and buckets ,custom intake manifold,Custom S.S exhaust headers,ross pistons ,arp rod bolts ,dry sump set-up. Have milled the head his afternoon and will tap the block next week .Note that the headgasket will easily take a 12mm stud or bolt also the washer seat is 24mm across to take a larger dia. washer.As we all know it only takes a boast spike or lean spot can put cylinder presures to the extreme.
Darren.
 
A boost spike or lean spot will do more than nail a headgasket. I have half inch head studs on my 2jz-gte also, because I run a GT4788mm turbo. It's usually around the 1000rwhp mark that things start to happen with headlift, accrding to most. Blown headgasket with 580rwhp between 8 cylinders points to another problem besides head lift. It's your car, so feel free to do what you want, but a set of 10mm L19 studs are rated stronger than standard 1/2" standard ARP studs.

Eric
 
After reading through this and the last thread I think we will just disagree. Eric will use 10mm L19 @ 100lb and I will use 12mm studs @95 lb (in a alloy block).
Good Luck
 
L19 is usually very expensive. A set of L19 studs for the 2jz run about $750.00 usd, however, with the amount of time and money needed to machine the block, gasket, and heads, the cost would be offset.

Again, it's up to the owner, with the amount of insurance they want to have with L19 and 1/2" studs. Usually, the guys that need 1/2" studs run at least 40 psi manifold pressure, and run 130 octane leaded fuel because the cylinder pressures are tremendous.

Eric
 
Might be a muted point,12 mmhave bigger diameter,so you would think that "bigger/larger" area of contact to the alloy block..? Make sense?Like more bearing area on the threads..err...hmm
 
I have gone to 1/2 arp studs $260 AUD makes for a much better deal than $750 USD . Yes there is a couple of hours work to drill and tap the heads and block,but I feel it is a much better job than Cowbobs set-up of L19s .
Darren,
 
dass said:
I have gone to 1/2 arp studs $260 AUD makes for a much better deal than $750 USD . Yes there is a couple of hours work to drill and tap the heads and block,but I feel it is a much better job than Cowbobs set-up of L19s .
Darren,
Nice work. I think drilling and tapping shouldnt be a major problem. The question i have for you would be the gasket holes. You might have to modify that too. I was thinking about the same thing too.
 
dass said:
I have gone to 1/2 arp studs $260 AUD makes for a much better deal than $750 USD . Yes there is a couple of hours work to drill and tap the heads and block,but I feel it is a much better job than Cowbobs set-up of L19s .
Darren,
Was the block and heads drilled by hand?

I can understand $260 AUD for the studs themselves, but for an engine builder to professionaly drill and tap the block and heads costs money.

Eric
 
The holes in the std MLS lexus gasket is just over 12mm std,so it only requires a small amount of dremel/die grinder work on the gaskets. My heads and block are done .A friend of my has his 1uz now running with the 1/2' studs and the mls gaskets and is happy with how it all went together.(He borrowed my gaskets to get his on the road for a comp. Darren.
 
Right, but did the $260 AUD include machine time, or was it done by hand? I have 1/2inch headstuds, and the machine costs worked out to if I had just gone with L19s in the first place.

What gasket did you use, because I didn't think the 1uz came with an MLS gasket form the facotry? At least the '93 I have here didn't. We opened my original gasket up by hand also, and over time, it was disasterous. No matter what you do there's still tiny pieces of material that get in between the layers, and don't allow the gasket to seat properly. Eventually you weep coolant, oil and fuel out of the side of the gasket, and down the block. Just something to keep in mind.

Eric
 
I have a milling machine in my workshop.
After much asking I have MLS 1uzfe factory headgaskets.
If you try to use the wrong tools for enlarging the holes you will have problems.
 
One of the machine shops tha we work with uses a press with a hole puncher of sorts to ensure there's no bits and pieces that find their way between the layers. It's a tricky situation. Between the machining of the block and heads, it seems the average person spends as much for 1/2" studs install as a set of "bolt on" L19's and the L19s are documented stronger than the 1/2" studs. If they were around when I was building my motor, I'd have run them just to save the trouble.

Eric
 
We did win the America's cup in 83..hehehheh ,the winged keel..now head studs..im thinking the 12 mm one too for the larger bearing in the block..
 
dass said:
Us Aussies are pretty smart bastards.
Clever too.... You manage to get most things done without spending a ton of money on the problem, or else you lie a lot :veryhappy

Over here we tend to keep throwing money at a problem until 1) It goes away, 2) We're broke, or 3) Wifey finds out, in which case we're divorced AND broke.
 


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