What can be deleted off the motor without causing ill effects?

[340i]

hi
just to keep the thread rolling.... lol.
this is how my setup looks now (ignore the pulley on the piss, it had just fallen off coz i didnt tighten it enough after polishing the alternator);
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t218/340i/DSCF3240small.jpg
the bottom alternator pivots off the bottom bolt, and the adjusters are milled from some alloy plate, then just some alloy tube spacers to sandwich the top together. it seems to work ok. from memory the belt is something like a 4pk800.

 

[340i]

haha and check out the shiniest billet alloy radiator overflow tank i could find...(in above pic)

 

[hungryforinfo]

I have removed everything including AC, PS and idlers leaving only the Alternator and the belt tensioner.

I purchased a belt to suit but have found that it slips, it seem's there is just not enuf surface area on the alternator to grip.
At idle it's fine but give it a rev and it squeeels
even at start up it slips for about 5 seconds

The belt I have is 850mm long which makes the tensioner sit half way through it's travel, which should be heap's of tension.
I was thinking maybe my tensioner is bad but didn't want to go buy another to find it's still got the same problem

Has anyone tryed the 850mm belt with no problems?


Here is a picture of what I was running, the red line is the setup that slips

Ill draw on

nah, if you are doing the 850, you need to make the alternator adjustable and get rid of the tensioner, just go around the crank and alternator, and wind the alternator away from the crank to tighten the belt, its easy enough to do, but your belt is somewhere below 700

The belt you have pictured is from memory a 6PK1575 (1575mm) (thats a DAYCO part number)

 

[V8Datto]

Yes, in the end I used this belt

And did this to the alternator.

I'm still using the belt tensioner as well.
So my setup is the red line in the post above

 

[hungryforinfo]

why did you keep the tensioner on there at all if you are only going around the alt??

 

[V8Datto]

It took 3-4 day and 3 different shops to get the 850mm belt, They had to send it half way across the country,
I can't think how hard it would be to get a 700mm one.

It suck's because it fit so well with the tensioner, but ofcorse it sliped.

still with the Alt mod it work's fine now.

 

[hungryforinfo]

It took 3-4 day and 3 different shops to get the 850mm belt, They had to send it half way across the country,
I can't think how hard it would be to get a 700mm one.

It suck's because it fit so well with the tensioner, but ofcorse it sliped.

still with the Alt mod it work's fine now.

you can get a belt custom made

 

[jibbby]

Better grab with tensioner in place, but with an outward adjustment slide of the alternator and a good torque and tighten technique the job can be done... You don't want belt slipage...

You may get an extra pony or two with the deleted tensioner but not that much of a difference, that free spining tensioner doesn't take too much away from the crank but provides better belt grab to the crank......

 

[cebby]

And did this to the alternator.

I'd consider a thicker piece of plate for the bracket. Over time that will crack - had a similar problem on my 87 Celica GTS years ago when I fitted a hi-amp GM alternator to it and made a custom bracket.

 

[bigdaddeywalt]

nah, if you are doing the 850, you need to make the alternator adjustable and get rid of the tensioner, just go around the crank and alternator, and wind the alternator away from the crank to tighten the belt, its easy enough to do, but your belt is somewhere below 700

The belt you have pictured is from memory a 6PK1575 (1575mm) (thats a DAYCO part number)

I made an adjustable bracket for the bottom of the alternator. I havent seen a 6 rib belt that small so what I used was a Dayco belt #5050315 which is the second to smallest that they had in the store, the smallest one was a #5050200(too small). It is a 5 rib but it doesnt squeel nor slip.

My setup was like the one in the pic with my belt being put on like the red line drawn on.I had the same problem with slippage and chewing the belt off by putting it around the tensioner. At first we said the same thing by saying that the Dayco belt had thinner grooves compared to the grooves in the lexus tensioner which as u can see in the pic the gap in the grooves.

If we can find someone to make the flat tensioner into a 6 groove tensioner, we'd be money! and also itll look nicer and make the alternator belt easier to change. I believe the stock tensioner is 100mm in size but couldnt find anything to match it in the stores. I believe there was someone here who had made one out of aluminum, but dont remember who it was. If anyone knows or remembers him can maybe chime in. Thanks and hope this helps

 

[Jake Breyck]

well, i would like to bump this thread back up to the top.. im nearing time to install my 1uz into my supra, and I wil not be useing the PS, AC, or hydrolic fan, So with the Alt being the only thing driven off the belt i dont see the point to the tensioner, I plan on makeing the alt adjstable simalar to the ablove pics, i was just wondering if anyone has come up with any new ideas, for this, or belts to use in the last year.

 

[4000GT]

You need PS! Its a total pig without it, suggest MR2 electric pump. Thats the way I am going...

 

[Jake Breyck]

ive driven daily and tracked the car for over a year with out ps, and the 1uz is a bit lighter then the 7m removing even more pigness so i dont think ill have a problem.

 

[4000GT]

Ah ok MKIII is lighter than MKIV, my Supra was terrible when I drove it with the belt off.

 

[Jake Breyck]

accually factory a mk3 is heaver then a mk4 but mine is so far from factory, atleast in weight, its about 1000lbs lighter just kinda guessing i need to scale it, witch is on my todo list after i get the 1uz into it.

also just takeing the belt off sucks.

 

[Drewpee]

Hi I ran this set up in my monaro for over a year no probs and the belt still looks new. It's simple and worked well. I think it's a step backward to adjust a belt by hand as the factory tensioner is set up so you can't over tension and damage the belt or bearings plus you don't have to readjust every few months. The belt I used was 85mm in length, it was a Dayco. The part # on the belt is 6PK0850 335K6. I hope this helps.
Good luck and have fun.
Drewpee

 

[camaro68]

This is the setup that we use.....

 

[cribbj]

I like those cam sprocket covers; are those off the later VVTi or 2UZ motor?

I assume that's an early 1UZ in the photo - can't see the block.

 

[jibbby]

You could even make it more simple with just a crank to alternator serp belt and have the alternator bracket adjust to tighten up the belt as needed...I don't think you would experience belt slippage with no idlers...

What about powersteering so you don't pull a bicept or tricept turning the wheel from a dead stop? What about Airconditoning for those long hot days sitting on the track?... Oh the discomforts of a dedicated race car....

 

[V8Datto]

Hi I ran this set up in my monaro for over a year no probs and the belt still looks new. It's simple and worked well. I think it's a step backward to adjust a belt by hand as the factory tensioner is set up so you can't over tension and damage the belt or bearings plus you don't have to readjust every few months. The belt I used was 85mm in length, it was a Dayco. The part # on the belt is 6PK0850 335K6. I hope this helps.
Good luck and have fun.
Drewpee

See thats the setup and the belt I used but I had slippage at idle and when reving.
Go figure?