my 1uz mk3 project

[taka21]

ok so i have no idea what to do now
i hooked up my safc2 so i could see what was going on with the afm the tach
i found that i was getting funky readings from the unit then i found that i wired it in wrong for my year
and finally it reads right but the car will not start or kick over into limp mode
im so exhausted with this project that i really dont know what to do with myself
anyone have any ideas
also it starts up reaches the highpoint of one rev and just dies back out i cant even blip the throttle and keep her running
all this after the new maf was installed and the safc2 wiring was corrected

 

[taka21]

ok so im still trouble shooting some idle issues but i owe you all some eye candy so heres a vid issues and all
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfaG8-nFZHwlol

 

[taka21]

hey everyone its been a while since i have updated this , im still dead in the water at the moment and i have no real leads on how to get out.
the car is still in limp mode idling at 1100 rpm its still hunting for the proper idle and it still seems to be ignoring the iacv and the maf
when i pinch the iacv hose the idle does die down quite a bit.
i think it may be the ecu, but when i cracked it open i didnt see anything burned out? im getting more and more confused
anyone have any

 

[taka21]

ok so i made some positive progress today, i tested the iacv per sideshows advice and found that with it blocked off and just the throttle opened up that it ran quite smoothly.
rev limit is still somewhere around 4 k and running RICH still sorting that out

 

[taka21]

quick update
i have now swapped in another known good ecu and another known good maf and still having the same issues

 

[4U2QUIK]

how long do you let it idle for?because it will idle high for several minutes or more till the water gets up to temp.

 

[newmon1978]

sorted out your probs yet?

 

[newmon1978]

Why dont you remove the ecu completely an go for a aftermarket ecu,I've been running aftermarket for few years without any problems,goin for the original ecu you always have probs getting them sorted my be more cotly than replacing

 

[newmon1978]

meant costly not cotly

 

[taka21]

ok so now i finally got it up and running thanks to everyone's help here on Lextreme. Now that I've been driving it around for a bit I'm finally taking notice of some of the finer details and small fix things that i need to do
realized this morning that the speedo is not registering..
The oil pressure is not registering.
I need to calibrate the tach. also I'm noticing that the motor does not idle high on cold start anymore.
It just sits at 500 rpm I'm thinking that's because the tps is not adjusted properly which I will address today.

 

[taka21]

ok so get this the water pump randomly gave up the ghost this morning (lil tired of things breaking on this project.) off to the parts store we go

 

[milisakeracing]

ok so get this the water pump randomly gave up the ghost this morning (lil tired of things breaking on this project.) off to the parts store we go

Sorry to hear that. Hopefully you didn't overheat the engine. Since it is such a pain in the butt to get to, when I did my swap I 'rebuilt' the whole front end by putting in new timing belt, pulleys, and water pump. The only items I didn't replace where the cam and crank seals. Between Champion (Texas) and Elmhurst (Illinois) Toyota I got discounted prices on the parts.

 

[milisakeracing]

ok so now i finally got it up and running thanks to everyone's help here on Lextreme. Now that I've been driving it around for a bit I'm finally taking notice of some of the finer details and small fix things that i need to do
realized this morning that the speedo is not registering..
The oil pressure is not registering.
I need to calibrate the tach. also I'm noticing that the motor does not idle high on cold start anymore.
It just sits at 500 rpm I'm thinking that's because the tps is not adjusted properly which I will address today.

Speedo is mechanically driven by the cable from the transmission. There are two parts. Make sure they're all screwed together. If they are, then one of them may have snapped.

Did you replace the oil pressure sensor on the 1UZ with the one from the 7M?

The tach is expecting a three pulse signal from a 7M and is only receiving a two pulse signal from the 1UZ. To get the best results you'll either need a tach signal converter or get the older Celica module which can swap on to the back of our tachs (I do not recall part number or year it came from but saw it here on Lextreme so you should be able to find it in a search).

 

[taka21]

Speedo is mechanically driven by the cable from the transmission. There are two parts. Make sure they're all screwed together. If they are, then one of them may have snapped.

Did you replace the oil pressure sensor on the 1UZ with the one from the 7M?

The tach is expecting a three pulse signal from a 7M and is only receiving a two pulse signal from the 1UZ. To get the best results you'll either need a tach signal converter or get the older Celica module which can swap on to the back of our tachs (I do not recall part number or year it came from but saw it here on Lextreme so you should be able to find it in a search).

yes i replaced the oil pressure sensor on the uz with the one from the 7m im not exactly sure where to splice that wire in tho.
ill find out today.
i deffinetly have to order the celica tach module cause i have no idea where my redline is actually at and it seems to hit the rev limiter right before 4k even though its not spitting black smoke anymore

 

[ihiryu]

my stock gauge says 4K when I'm at redline, I've confirmed it with the SAFC.

SAFC says 6450 while the stock gauge shows 4000, I think it actually says 4200 or so.

Don't forget on the SAFC when you do the vehicle select as a 4 cylinder and not an 8.

The ignition system on the 1uz is like two four cylinders (also like the LT1), and since you're getting RPM from one side, you need to select 4 cylinder. People tend to forget this.

 

[taka21]

my stock gauge says 4K when I'm at redline, I've confirmed it with the SAFC.

SAFC says 6450 while the stock gauge shows 4000, I think it actually says 4200 or so.

Don't forget on the SAFC when you do the vehicle select as a 4 cylinder and not an 8.

The ignition system on the 1uz is like two four cylinders (also like the LT1), and since you're getting RPM from one side, you need to select 4 cylinder. People tend to forget this.

thanks man this was really buggin me lol, i took my safc off cause when i did the diag from apex they said it was a faulty unit as far as tuning went. but knowing that im not crazy and that i did do this job right makes me feel a lot better

are you actually tuning with your safc or are you using it just to monitor things?

 

[ihiryu]

Ha ha, yeah a lot of people get confused about it, and of course had I not had a SC400 prior I probably wouldn't have known this issue either.

I'm using it for both, it's easier to diagnosis sensors with it, well the main sensors anyway.

Also have fun with trying to tune it with o2 sensors, the car is going to relearn over and over. I just left mine disconnected and I'm going to put up with the check engine light.

The SAFC doesn't work well on Toyota's (IMHO) because the Toyota ECU has the ability to relearn. While most other (older cars) don't mind it.

But the good thing about it, is that the ECU seems to be able to relearn the 315cc after a few minutes of driving.

Now the AEM F/IC and MAFTPro should be good to go because they can scale the o2 sensors. And they both can retard timing.

So for instance, when you go WOT the ecu goes to close loop and reads from the primary o2 sensor and when you make an adjustment with the SAFC, it sees that it's either too rich or too lean for it's liking, then BAM the ECU adjusts it.

Don't believe me? Try it for yourself, on your SAFC go to 3500 rpms, and richen it up. Let the car warm up and go driving, drive it normal, and punch it a few times up to 4000 rpm's. It'll bog from being rich, then after awhile it'll run smooth again.

Again with the F/IC and MAFTpro it can trick the signal from the o2 sensor to ecu.

The only other option I can think of is the zeitronix wideband. It has the ability to send a narrow band signal to the ECU. But here's the thing, the zeitronix wideband you can hook it up to your laptop and have it send a signal to the ecu of WHATEVER. So you can have the zeitronix send the signal to the ecu to say 14.7 or whatever the ecu likes, but really be 12:1.

Does that make sense?

 

[taka21]

Ha ha, yeah a lot of people get confused about it, and of course had I not had a SC400 prior I probably wouldn't have known this issue either.

I'm using it for both, it's easier to diagnosis sensors with it, well the main sensors anyway.

Also have fun with trying to tune it with o2 sensors, the car is going to relearn over and over. I just left mine disconnected and I'm going to put up with the check engine light.

The SAFC doesn't work well on Toyota's (IMHO) because the Toyota ECU has the ability to relearn. While most other (older cars) don't mind it.

But the good thing about it, is that the ECU seems to be able to relearn the 315cc after a few minutes of driving.

Now the AEM F/IC and MAFTPro should be good to go because they can scale the o2 sensors. And they both can retard timing.

So for instance, when you go WOT the ecu goes to close loop and reads from the primary o2 sensor and when you make an adjustment with the SAFC, it sees that it's either too rich or too lean for it's liking, then BAM the ECU adjusts it.

Don't believe me? Try it for yourself, on your SAFC go to 3500 rpms, and richen it up. Let the car warm up and go driving, drive it normal, and punch it a few times up to 4000 rpm's. It'll bog from being rich, then after awhile it'll run smooth again.

Again with the F/IC and MAFTpro it can trick the signal from the o2 sensor to ecu.

The only other option I can think of is the zeitronix wideband. It has the ability to send a narrow band signal to the ECU. But here's the thing, the zeitronix wideband you can hook it up to your laptop and have it send a signal to the ecu of WHATEVER. So you can have the zeitronix send the signal to the ecu to say 14.7 or whatever the ecu likes, but really be 12:1.

Does that make sense?

yes it makes sense to me , i guess its time to go ahead and hook the safc2 back up at least for monitoring purposes for now and see about getting that zeitronix wideband cause right now i feel like its running way too rich for my liking i know i can get better mileage and power out of this thing lol.
btw what exact setup are you running right now and what kind of power and mileage are you making?

 

[ihiryu]

lol mileage? whats that?

A full tank nets me about 260 or so, and I have the car running as lean as possible...I think I need new plugs ha ha, but mileage on my stock SC4 wasnt' very good either.

 

[taka21]

lol mileage? whats that?

A full tank nets me about 260 or so, and I have the car running as lean as possible...I think I need new plugs ha ha, but mileage on my stock SC4 wasnt' very good either.

smh lol
if your makin 260 a tank and your turboed with supra 315 injectors i should for damn sure be makin 300 a tank lol

ill be reinstalling my safc2 in the morning so i wont be so blind and as soon as i find the appropreate size piping ill be making my cold air intake witch should help out a bit.

do you have any pix of your setup ?????