Vibration

[MaxPower]

I have had the car (1UZ and A341E in a Holden VL Calais) on the road for about 3 months now and have had a vibration from day 1 when taking off from a stop. It ony happens from 1500rpm to about 2000rpm and then goes away. It will happen with anything greater than about 15% throttle, any gear (tried 1,2,3 - manual control). Under WOT there is also a vibration all the way to redline but is only very minor.

Now the problem is the guy that shortened and balanced the tailshaft says it is the suspension (worn upper trailling arm bushes), the suspension place says its the tailshaft (all the bushes have been replaced with polyurathane) and a friend who builds gearbox's reckons its the center bearing on the tail shaft (this and the CV joint was replaced when the tail shaft was done).

The known problems are the diff is stuffed and I am waiting for parts to fix it and the rear Uni Joint has a little play in it. The thing is the diff and uni-joint were stuffed before the 1UZ conversion and there were no vibrations.

Has anyone on here experienced a similar thing or can maybe sugest something to check?? Also I will replace the front Uni-Joint (Crown slip yoke) while the diff is getting repaired so does anyone know what size the uni-joint is??

Thanx

 

[Pro]

the diff could be the problem for sure - esp. if it's across such a short rpm band.

other than that, the centre bearing carrier isn't bolted tight enough to the body which can accelerate unijoint wear.

vibration that happens under medium to heavy throttle is always load induced, so it can only be rotating parts. the bloke that says it's your upper arms is having a lend of you. 90% of the time, it's the tailshaft. 5% of the time it's the diff and 4% of the time it's the gearbox. the other 1% is the est of the stupid stuff dodgy workshops try to blame it on because it "could be".

 

[Zuffen]

Fix the diff and uni joint first.

If the vibration persists check all engine/gearbox mounts.

The reason it vibrates now and not before the swaop is the 1UZ is outperforming the asthmatic lump of junk that lived under the bonnet originally.

One way to check tailshaft balance is to use two equal sized hose clamps. Put them on your shaft with the screw sections opposite each other, this means they balance each other. Try rotating ONE a little and see if it gets better or worse. If worse rotate the other way. It's fiddly but quite effective. If you can improve the situation, it means the saft is out of balance, get the shaft balanced.

 

[MaxPower]

vibration that happens under medium to heavy throttle is always load induced, so it can only be rotating parts. the bloke that says it's your upper arms is having a lend of you. 90% of the time, it's the tailshaft. 5% of the time it's the diff and 4% of the time it's the gearbox. the other 1% is the est of the stupid stuff dodgy workshops try to blame it on because it "could be".

I only humored the tailshaft guy by having a suspension mob look at the suspension, the entire suspension setup were replaced about 10,000kms ago so I seriously doubted that would be the problem. I will try what Zuffen has suggested to see if i can get the problem to clear, get the diff and uni's repaired (The tailshaft guy failed to pick up that the uni's were shagged) and if it is still a problem its off to the tailshaft shop again....

The reason it vibrates now and not before the swaop is the 1UZ is outperforming the asthmatic lump of junk that lived under the bonnet originally.

If only that were true. The only thing that the 1UZ is better at is fuel economy. The old 5L was faster and had much more torque, peak power is higher from the 1UZ but torque wins races.

One way to check tailshaft balance is to use two equal sized hose clamps. Put them on your shaft with the screw sections opposite each other, this means they balance each other. Try rotating ONE a little and see if it gets better or worse. If worse rotate the other way. It's fiddly but quite effective. If you can improve the situation, it means the saft is out of balance, get the shaft balanced.

Cheers, will give that a go, sounds like a good test.



Does anyone know the size of the uni-joint at the slip yoke end of the tailshaft??? Its from a Crown.

 

[LEXUSV8NZ]

Try a new driveshaft shop

Logan

 

[Peewee]

If only that were true. The only thing that the 1UZ is better at is fuel economy. The old 5L was faster and had much more torque, peak power is higher from the 1UZ but torque wins races.

I think you'll find the 1uz has more peak torque, but much less low down grunt.
DOHC motors tend to make about 90-100 Nm per L.
Pushrod motors tend to make about 75-85 Nm per L, unless its a top of the range or fully modded.

But either way, I'd be putting money on the tailshaft.
Take it somewhere else and get rebalanced.

 

[deankdx]

my brothers VN with standard V6 has same symptoms, he said it IS the centre bearing as it happened less than 12 months ago and has checked that to be the prob again. he always buys the cheap and nasty stuff so if thats available for a centre bearing thats what he got, cheAP and nasty

if your tail shaft nloke failed to pick up unis i hate to see what he failed to do when doing shaft

 

[MaxPower]

my brothers VN with standard V6 has same symptoms, he said it IS the centre bearing as it happened less than 12 months ago and has checked that to be the prob again. he always buys the cheap and nasty stuff so if thats available for a centre bearing thats what he got, cheAP and nasty

if your tail shaft nloke failed to pick up unis i hate to see what he failed to do when doing shaft

Cheers deankdx, thats what a few ppl on calaisturbo.com have said the problem is, I will replace the bearing next week along with the rear uni-joint and see what happens - failing that i will have it rebalanced and inspected elsewhere.

The only reason i have gone back to the same tailshaft shop is due to the warranty, the reason i chose them in the first place was due to them being recommended by a few ppl, but now the sweetness of cheapness has well and truly worn off.

Thanx for the responses.

 

[Peewee]

Where was it?
I got mine done at West City Engineering, Balcatta.

A friend got his done at DRIVESHAFT BALANCING SERVICES in OssiePark, and it was about half the cost of mine, but when I rang up them to get a quote for doing mine again (first time was to lengthen it 80mm for the manual tranny, 2nd time was for new uni's) their quote was almost double the other place.

Ended up paying $200 for 3 new uni's installed, and rebalanced. Centre bearing was within tolerances apparently.
I highly recommend West City Engineering.

 

[MaxPower]

Where was it?
I got mine done at West City Engineering, Balcatta.

A friend got his done at DRIVESHAFT BALANCING SERVICES in OssiePark, and it was about half the cost of mine, but when I rang up them to get a quote for doing mine again (first time was to lengthen it 80mm for the manual tranny, 2nd time was for new uni's) their quote was almost double the other place.

Ended up paying $200 for 3 new uni's installed, and rebalanced. Centre bearing was within tolerances apparently.
I highly recommend West City Engineering.

Got it done at driveshaft balancing in ossie park for $280, this was shortened, balanced with new centre CV and bearing. West City wanted $350 to shorten and balance then $150 for centre CV and bearing, most other places were around the $400 mark for everything. Its amazing the variation in quotes for basically the same work!!!

Is the front uni-joint on ur car the non-removale type like the Crown or just the standard style with cir-clips holding it in??

 

[Peewee]

Some people reckon they were non-replacable, but I reckon they are just non-servicable.

Both places quoted me up to $800 if they needed machining out, and then they would just put servicable Holden ones back in.

But for $200, they had to come out easily.
I don't think they were cir-clip'd in like Holden ones though.


But yeah, I paid about $300 at West City to get it lengthed a couple a years back, and that was only the front section.
A friend got his one piece lengthed at Driveshaft Balancing and it cost him about $180 I think.
So I told myself that I musta got ripped off by West City.
So when I needed the uni's done I got quotes from both, both said about $800 if they had to be machined out, West City said about $250 if they didn't, and DB said about $350 if they didn't. So I just went back to West City.

It doesn't make sense, but never-the-less I am happy with their work, so I would go back.