Manley Tour Lite Tour Lite® “ I ” Beam Rods “ I ” Beam Rods

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

milnersXcoupe

New Member
Messages
95
Location
new paltz, new york . USA
 Forged from 4340 aircraft quality material
 Fully machined to produce the lightest and strongest rod possible
 3/8" ARP 2000, 3/8" ARP 3.5, or 3/8" CARR cap screws
 Shot peened and 100% magnafluxed

Horsepower range is 575 H.P. at 8500 rpm

Horsepower range is affected by rpm, stroke and piston weight.

Above rods REQUIRE use of one of the connecting rod bearings listed below.

To order rods finished to the exact size for Federal
Mogul bearings, affix an “F” after the rod part number.

For rods finished to exact size for Clevite bearings, affix a “C” after the rod
part number.

In addition, you MUST specify which Clevite bearing will be used.


TOUR LITE® “ I ” BEAM RODS

4340 MATERIAL

Part No. Length Journal Size Center-to Center Big End Bore Gram Weight
14340-8 Stock Length Honda / IRL 5.700" 1.976" / 2.008" / 2.015" 525 / 530 / 538



COMMON FEATURES
Attribute Honda / IRL Journal

Crankpin 1.8885" / 1.8500"
Pin Bore .9281"
Big End Width .940"
Pin End Width .980"


BEARING CHART

Bearing Type Part No. Big End Bore Crank Pin

Federal Mogul 7195CH 2.008" 1.8885" Honda

Clevite CB1456P 2.008" 1.8885" Honda

Clevite CB1663 2.015" 1.8885" Honda

Clevite CB1664 2.008" 1.8500" IRL

Clevite CB1798H 1.976" 1.8500" IRL


Lengths other than these typical sizes may become popular after publication of this catalog.

Please inquire about lengths not
listed as we may have subsequently added applications.

Also, we can manufacture 40 pieces of these rods at special lengths for
no additional charge.

All connecting rods on this page are supplied with 1.600" underhead length 3/8" ARP 2000 cap screw fasteners P/N 42351.

Upgraded 3/8" ARP 3.5 cap screws P/N 42358 or 3/8" CARR cap screws P/N 42357 are available.

To order upgraded fasteners,
affix an “RA” for the ARP 3.5 or an “R” for the CARR after the rod part number.
 
Manley is quality stuff. I run their valve train in my 2JZ and am very happy with it. SS valves, springs, and titanium retainers. I don't have experience with their rods, but am sure they're excellent too.

Another quality alternative, and certainly more readily available for the UZ motors, are the rods from Argo Racing in Oz.

I think our member Zuffen still has a few sets of these available at the GP price from last year, which, even when shipped from Oz, will probably beat any other aftermarket rod vendor's pricing.

If I needed a set of rods, those are the ones I'd go with first. Argo probably have more experience building rods specifically for the UZ engines than anyone else.
 
A friend and I went to Manley's HQ about 10 years ago,they wanted to get into the import market so we brought over some competitors' parts. Tripp Manley (son of the company founder) showed us around the manufacturing facility,what a sight seeing all those CNC machines.

They do make some quality stuff.
 
That translates as being a HP ceiling - the rod set will take 575 HP safely.

There is a built in margin of sorts - running a lighter weight piston / wrist pin set helps keeping the engine together as well.
 
check the weights for given HP / RPM ceilings ARGO VS MANLEY:

I chose 575HP since the weight per rod is low & run a weekend cruiser rather than a 'Blown Rail' pushing an imaginary 1,600 HP on street tires...@ $4.29 Gal. fuel...

MANLEY has been turning out A-1 Top Fuel engine bits for decades - thought Argo is a Man's Monthly Magazine..
 
Not saying Manley isn't good gear but I'm making more than 575hp on the stock rods so why would you bother ?? If i find more hp i'll be going argo rods for sure.
 
".........i don't FEEL tardy.........hmm"

Not saying Manley isn't good gear but I'm making more than 575hp on the stock rods so why would you bother ?? If i find more hp i'll be going argo rods for sure.
:rant:


well.......again,... I CHOOSE 575HP because... as you move up the HP ladder - the WEIGHT of the connecting rod INCREASES...more HP = more rod Weight -

and since I don't want to be spinning more WEIGHT on the lightened crankshaft than I absolutely must -

I won't 'Represent' choosing connecting rods for a 900HP engine spinning at 8,500 RPM - for when I'm heading to 7-11 - I'll need them for a 575HP engine on Pump Gasoline - turning TOPS - 7,200 some sunny day I hole shot a 'Vette at a light.:werd:

MANLEY has con rods for a 400HP to 900HP and 'Special Order' for all you
Tundra riders making 1,250HP in Street Trim...'Buy American' ...saves shipping costs too.



 Forged from 4340 aircraft quality vacuum degassed material
 Fully machined to produce the lightest and strongest rod possible
 Shot peened after machining to Mil specs and 100% individually magnafluxed
 Cap fasteners are 7/16" ARP 2000 or 7/16" ARP 3.5 cap screws
 Horsepower range for these rods is 750 H.P. at 8500 rpm
PRO SERIES “ I ” BEAM RODS PRO SERIES “ I ” BEAM RODS
LIGHTWEIGHT LIGHTWEIGHT


-or-

PRO SERIES “ I ” BEAM RODS PRO SERIES “ I ” BEAM RODS
ST STANDARD WEIGHT STANDARD WEIGHT
 Forged from 4340 aircraft quality vacuum degassed material
 Fully machined to produce the lightest and strongest rod possible
 Shot peened after machining to Mil specs and 100% individually magnafluxed
 Cap fasteners are 7/16" ARP 2000 or 7/16" ARP 3.5 cap screws
 Horsepower range for these rods is 800 H.P. at 8500 rpm


-or-


“ H ” BEAM RODS “ H ” BEAM RODS
 Manufactured from 4340 forgings
 Heat treated, stress relieved, shot peened and magnafluxed
 Weight matched sets + 1.5 grams
 Cap fasteners are premium 7/16" ARP 8740 cap screws
 Horsepower range for these rods is 900 H.P. at 8000 rpm



http://www.manleyperformance.com/pdfs/06/ConRods-103-134.pdf
 
Sorry mate but you hip 'lingo' is unintelligible and i have no idea what you are trying to say? All i'm saying is my daily driver street engine makes ballpark 600-650hp on the stock rods.....handles the drags and the local race circuit OK thus far too. So really there's probably no need to bother upgrading rods at that hp level if you'd rather spend your money on something else? I figured this was helpful info?

If i had the dosh to chase some more hp i'd upgrade the rods but with engines just $800AUD i can still afford a few breakages 1st. Yet to find the limit of the stock combo but from local drag racing experience it seems to be around the 800hp flywheel mark.... and even then it's the block failing NOT the rods. Food for thought?
 
Why would manley make 3 sorts of rod for one engine?

I wonder what the weight difference is between them.

Are the low HP rods lighter (they machined them to within an inch of their lives) and the High (? 900 aint high but nonetheless) are they heavier because they're meatier?
 
Justen,
In your last post I saw an interesting comment about block failure from 800+ hp engines. Was cylinder sleeve wall thickness a factor in this? Thanks again for your differential comments, you probably saved me a few grand.
 
Andrew, i don't have many details as just the info these guys were happy to pass on but it wasn't the liners splitting it was the actual block. Liners may have shifted ? but i suspect that the block just doesn't have the rigidity to handle the torque at these levels. I think a crank girdle would do the trick but you need someone pretty clued up on the type of material required or you could actually go backwards. The different expansion rates of an alloy block and whatever the girdle was made from would have to be minimised by the right choice of material.
 
Justen are you referring to splitting right down the V, as in a Ford small block that's had too much nitrous? Not to drift this thread too much, but do you have any pics?
 
nah sorry Cribb no pics and not more specifics. I think the most likely spot will be wherever you think the forces imparted to the block from the crank are highest. To get around the issue these guys using big hp UZs for drags have either partly or fully grouted the block (which is no good for street use) or in one case gone with a full CNC custom block.
 
Justen,
The reason I asked about the liners is because I have a small concern about my block being bored to 0.020" which will leave me 0.177'" (4.4958mm) cylinder liner wall thickness. I have considered re-sleeving with this overbore to get the walls up to 7 mm or so. It is easy enough for me to get it done here. Maybe it is way too much overkill. The static compression will be 8.5/1 with somewhere less than 20 psi boost (intercooled). I know some of the guys are running way more than that but I am looking to get 200k out of a fresh engine.
 


Top