looking for 350hp 400TQ on a turbo vvt-i 1uz

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Boostage

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Should I be worried about the connecting rods folding at that level? they look really thin from all the pics online, but they should be fine right?

its going to be a 99' Gs400 63mm turbo FMU 42 lb injectors and a walboro.
 
I was about to swap a 2uz block with my 1uz heads but the 2uz rods are pencil thick... and the vvti 1uz has the same skinny rods. They are time bombs as far as boost goes. I was thinking along your lines, that if i kept power down I would be ok but after reading about those rods breaking from as little as 7psi I decided to scrap the stock swap.

7psi is around 300rwhp+/- (ish) for the VVTI and it's a gamble, I will say that. Your engine is a very capable(boostable) engine.... just swap your rods for 1991-1993 (non vvt-i) rods and get it re-balanced, then you should be ready for heavy boost.

Also, your A341 tranny will be at it's maximum limit in stock form. It should hold up fine with a tranny cooler but any higher than 350rwhp should require a built A341.
 
Thanks for the advice. cant I just buy an older non vvt-i block and mate it to the vvt-i heads? I can find the older 1uz's with the thicker rods for $200 where I live.
 
You can do what you proposed by using an earlier block thus having the stonger rods, but the problem that will arise is the early blocks do not have the casting provision for oil feed for the VVTi actuation. This can be solved with some slight modifications to the block and heads and the use of stainless braided lines. That is probably a lot more work then whats its worth. You would be better just getting a set of the early rods and taring apart your lower end to swap out the rods.

I'll bet that if you posted a wanted to buy add on here, you should be able to get a set without much problem being that there are many members that have gone to aftermarket rods while insearch of high power levels.

Another option that I haven't heard of anyone trying yet with the rods that has proven to be of benifit in strength on other engines is the take your rods and have them cryo'd and shot peened. This has proven to strengthen them, Although this would still probably equate to a higher cost then getting a set of the early rods.

Another thing to remember, is its not the power and compression loads that destroys a rod, its the inertial and tensile loads that do the damage. The rod experiances the most damaging loads during the intake stroke. The intake stroke is the the worst stroke on a rod. The intake stroke is the only stroke that the rod is under tensile loads. Every other stroke, it is under compression loads and pretty much every solid object known to man is stonger in compression loads then they are in tensile loads. Look at the strength properties chart of any metal and you will see what Im talking about.

I always have built engines with the intent of achieving the desired power level well below the factory RPM limit by running more boost and other means rather then running higher RPM's as many do and I have never had problems with rods that were said to be weak or too weak for that power level. But in the case of a UZ, being that there are stonger rods out there that can be had for really cheap, its probably better off the be safe then possibly sorry.
 


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