1uz / Nissan 6 speed Mercedes 190e swap

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Given the rails must be around 500mm apart are you concerned the plate could flex at all?

By this I mean it can rise and fall which would allow the rails to move in and out.

I'd be leaning toward some sort of gusset running across the plate to add to its stiffness. Probably right across the front of it.

What has your Engineer said about the plate?
 
Given the rails must be around 500mm apart are you concerned the plate could flex at all?

By this I mean it can rise and fall which would allow the rails to move in and out.

I'd be leaning toward some sort of gusset running across the plate to add to its stiffness. Probably right across the front of it.

What has your Engineer said about the plate?

Well - I am lucky here in my part of Canada that there are no requirements for an "engineer" or modification inspection at all for vehicle licensing.

There are currently no regular or annual vehicle inspections at all except for emissions testing. That is unless I am pulled over and ordered by the police to have a vehicle safety inspection for something that "appears unsafe or in need of repair".

And....even better the emissions testing is going to be scrapped later this year as well :).

If it were to rise and fall it would have to pull the stock cross member up and down with it - not likely in my opinion.

The additional mounting points that will be welded on to attach the steering rack will provide some additional stiffness as well but I am pretty sure it is going to be just fine as is. There will also be 2 more bolts going into nuts welded into the underneath of the cross member - see empty holes in plate in the pic.
 

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I have not got much done recently - awaiting parts to arrive for the rack install...

I have a new rack, decided to go non-power for simplicity, and am awaiting new bushings and inner tie rods to move forward...hopefully this weekend.
 
I have started to sort out how i actually want the rack attached to the plate. I have come up with a solution that will allow me to bolt the rack to 2 brackets that will then be bolted to the plate. By bolting the brackets I am able to raise the rack slightly if required for bump steer adjustment.

progress so far:
 

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I am just about finished the rack plate. I welded 2 square ears onto the brackets that have 1/2" bolts going through them into the plate. I also welded on a piece of flat bar to hold both sides the right distance apart and in line with each other and beef it all up.

The idea with the bolt on ears is - if i need to raise the rack a little I can place shims under these points and use longer bolts.

I still need to weld 2 locator tabs onto each side of the plate that touch the mounting ears so that the bolts are not totally in shear. Then take it apart and paint everything and install.
 

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I finished test installing the rack today. Everything is painted up and bolts up nicely. Awaiting another tie-rod to proceed. I lubed the poly bushing with some lithium grease to stop them from squeaking.

I had to notch the stock cross member where the seams come together slightly to clear the rack mount brackets. I am going to re-weld this seam... just in case. Once that is done I can start to fit the motor/trans finally!
 

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Got a little distracted with some other projects as of late but I am back on the 190 now.

I cut out the diagonal support metal above the steering column exit on the firewall. I am not too worried about removing this as it looks to have been placed there specifically to brace the area around the stock steering box.

I also removed the false firewall so I can strip and re-paint it. There are quite a few holes in the sheet metal of the engine compartment that I want to weld up as well so in the next few days I will do that and also box in the area that I cut out for clearance.
 

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The stock MB 190e rear sub frame now fits a much beefier limited slip Nissan diff! Same one found in the Skyline turbo cars. Good for about 600hp stock....quite adequate. Lots of measuring and reworking to get it located exactly right.. but that is done. Just need to brace the rear plate. It is all 3mm thick steel which is thicker than the stock stuff. Due to the mounting points and axle position differences of the 2 diffs, it was necessary to move the main mounting point back about 40mm.

I went to the local pick-a-part and bought another whole rear sub frame assembly and removed the suspension - just in case I messed it up on the first try...The new mounting plate looks kind of bent in the pic with the diff but it is dead straight. The sub frame was tacked to my welding table during the "Surgery"...
 

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I media blasted the sub frame and welded on some gussets underneath where I have read they crack...

I also started working on a solution for the "front of diff mount" - it is on both sides of the Nissan diff unlike the MB which was only on one side. The bolt holes are right under the sub frame in the front which is not so convenient...I was thinking I would box up the mounts and then weld that whole piece into the sub frame. Might be a bit overkill again but I don't ever want to have to remove it again.....
 

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Painted and partially assembled...now I can add the rest of the suspension and work on the axle situation.
 

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The adapter plate arrived yesterday - Thanks 4U2QUIK!


I also bought a 350z stock drive shaft last night off of Craigslist for $40!

Interestingly....the 190e wheelbase is listed at 2664mm....and the 350z is listed at 2649mm - only 15mm difference. There is a vague possibility that the stock 350z drive shaft could work as is depending on where I place the engine and transmission. Considering that it will bolt directly to the rear diff without modification and slip into the trans this would be a pretty convenient outcome.

If it does not work then I will "re-tube" it to the correct length using the rear U-joint and the front slip yoke.
 

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Finally got around to changing the driver's seat covers. When I got the car the interior was really good except the seat - sagging base and cracks in the vinyl.

I got a mint black cover set on ebay and bought another mint blue seat at the wrecker to use instead of the stock one.

I may change the front seats later to something lighter but I do like the stock seats classic look and feel.
 

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I test fitted the Toyota V8 in the Mercedes engine bay and it looks like it will fit with some minor "editing". Even as is the hood closes nicely with space to spare.

The cross member needs a little trimming to clear the rear of the oil pan sump and the rear passenger side fire wall sheet metal needs some clearancing at the back of the head area. The steering rack has some unused threaded bosses that I need to grind off and and then everything will be fine there too.

The urethane C6 Corvette motor mounts I used look like they were meant for this application and sit in almost the exact same stock location as the MB 4 cylinder. I will edit the cross member so the surface they sit on is flat instead of slanted. They fit the 1uz ears perfectly too.
 

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