1UZ in Thai longtail boat

[gloverman]

These days I flick heads off as it's the easiest way. Cams out to do the head bolts. I recommend fitting 6mm bolts to sizzor gears before removing so they don't unload.

 

[melvinmelvin]

These days I flick heads off as it's the easiest way. Cams out to do the head bolts. I recommend fitting 6mm bolts to sizzor gears before removing so they don't unload.

right,
thanks for that.

sizzor gears, the 2 "cog" wheels in the middle of the cams?

 

[melvinmelvin]

These days I flick heads off as it's the easiest way. Cams out to do the head bolts. I recommend fitting 6mm bolts to sizzor gears before removing so they don't unload.

Ta.

I saw that hint re 6 mm bolt in one of the tutorials also.

However, on the engine's right hand side the holes in the two cog wheels are not aligned, roughly 180 degrees apart.
How do I handle that?

If I open the spring on the gear can I just rotate so that they are aligned, apply the 6 mm bolt and the close up with the spring again?

I am kind of assuming that when the holes are aligned the knocking on the valves by the camshaft will be in order.
Or am I wrong re that?.

----------------
Bloody hell. Doing these springs-oil seals and keepers ain't easy.
Bought some tools on Amazon, tools that were recommended in some tutorial. A thingie with a heavy magnet inside to handle the keepers.
Of course, the handle of that tool was too large.. Cannot use it.

(have some remedies in my misc. box though that may work - will see)

 

[melvinmelvin]

ANOTHER QUESTION(s), PLEASE

On the right hand side the 6 mm holes in the cam gears in the middle of the out-cam are far from being aligned.

When I take out the in-cam and the out-cam, can I just open the spring on the out-cam and rotate
the wheels so that the holes are aligned?
Then insert the 6 mm screw and then the spring again.

Or might this upset something, timing wise?



In the ends of the cam shaft housing there are som half-circular aluminium plugs that seals off the housing,
part number 11183-50010.
Should these plugs be fitted with tiny O-rings?



(comment,
weird screwing on 1UZ, so much has to come off in order to do this and that

re changing the valve stem seals, didn't get that string/rope method to work a all, wasted hours and hours doing 2 valves
I have three different valve tools and my neighbour has one rather elaborate one, none even close to fit the 1UZ
so in the end, had to pluck off the cylinder head)
.

 

[melvinmelvin]

CYLINDER HEAD GASKET

I found that my gaskets had some small "circles" of something like silicone gasket maker cream around
the small holes in the gaskets.

Is this something you normally do? Or do you just use the gaskets, dry, as they are?

 

[melvinmelvin]

These days I flick heads off as it's the easiest way. Cams out to do the head bolts. I recommend fitting 6mm bolts to sizzor gears before removing so they don't unload.

Thanks for that. In the end that was what I did. Changing the valve oil seals was reasonably quick and easy with the cylinderhead off.
(could use a rather big plier look-alike tool similar to what I used 35 years ago on Minis/Coopers and B18s)

Did screw in a 6mm bolt in the left hand out-cam gears. However, on the right hand out-cam the holes in the gears are not aligned, by far.
Should I open the spring and just turn the gears so that the holes are aligned and insert a 6 mm bolt,
or is that likely to upset something timing wise?

 

[melvinmelvin]

TUTORIALS AND TERMINOLOGY:

Have been through most, if not all, tutorials addressing water pump, timing belt, cams etc.
Terms like, RIGHT, LEFT, CLOCKWISE, PASSENGER SIDE and DRIVER SIDE is used.

Right and left are well explained, but driver side and passenger side are not.
Is the writer writing in/for a country with left-hand drive or right-hand drive? Hard to say.

Right and left are explained as right and left when looking at the engine from behind, or in the direction you are driving, fine.
(matches Toyota terminology and spare part manuals)

But which way should you turn the engine when turning it clockwise?
Clockwise when looking at the front of the engine or clockwise when looking at the back of the engine?

 

[gloverman]

As for the alignment of the cam sissor gear it's hard to advise when I cant see it. I suspect you are trying to align the incorrect hole. Generally you need to insert the 6mm bolt then rotate the cams to their timing alignment position.

Engine Left and right is from the seated position of the vehicle or behind the engine. Toyota marks many of the parts L and R (like cam sensor brackets) so thats easy. Clockwise and counterclockwise is from the front of the engine. This is a clockwise rotating engine.

Drivers and passengers sides is for people who don't know left and right convention on engines. They should not write articles.

 

[melvinmelvin]

As for the alignment of the cam sissor gear it's hard to advise when I cant see it. I suspect you are trying to align the incorrect hole. Generally you need to insert the 6mm bolt then rotate the cams to their timing alignment position.

Engine Left and right is from the seated position of the vehicle or behind the engine. Toyota marks many of the parts L and R (like cam sensor brackets) so thats easy. Clockwise and counterclockwise is from the front of the engine. This is a clockwise rotating engine.

Drivers and passengers sides is for people who don't know left and right convention on engines. They should not write articles.

Thank you.

I understand now that I have expressed myself rather badly re the gears, sorry for that.

Before I started to pluck off cams and cylinderheads the engine was turned to timing alignment position, like when you change the timing belt,
(it was running smooth before I started).

The right hand cams and cylinderhead are not yet off, have been too much rain, can't do it then.

I just looked at the right cams.
It seems to me that all the exhaust valves are fully closed.
If the right hand gears are similarly machined as the left hand gears then the hole with 6 mm thread must be pointing right downwards,
cannot see it and there is not sufficient space to get fingers and a 6 mm bolt down there.

So I guess I will just mark the position of the out-cam,
then take it off, assuming the gears will not rotate unless the spring is opened,
insert the 6 mm (assuming holes are aligned when I get the cam out) and leave the bolt there until
the timing belt is back on and engine can be turned.

 

[gloverman]

You assume wrong. As soon as the cam is removed the sizzor will spin. I always insert the 6mm bolt before disassembly. If you have it apart the you need to rotate the sizzor again to load up the spring.

 

[melvinmelvin]

You assume wrong. As soon as the cam is removed the sizzor will spin. I always insert the 6mm bolt before disassembly. If you have it apart the you need to rotate the sizzor again to load up the spring.

Thanks a heap for your patience. I think that finally the haze has lifted and that I can see some light.

I should of course have inserted the 6 mm before I took off the timing belt, while I still rotated the engine to fit the alignment marks.
(then it doesn't matter that the threaded hole is pointing downwards and is unreachable when I take the out-cam off)

Since I have no particular desire to learn how to load that gear spring correctly,
I will put back the cylinderhead that is ready, and the cams, hook up the belt correctly and then rotate
so that I can insert the 6 mm on the right out-cam
then rotate to alignment position and off with the righthand cams and cylinderhead.

Some extra work but should do the trick I reckon.

 

[gloverman]

Now you are catching on.

If you have a early gen 1 engine then the valves are not interference so you can rotate it safely without the belt on. If it's a gen 2 then putting the pistons at half bore and then rotate is fine but just be careful.

 

[melvinmelvin]

Now you are catching on.

If you have a early gen 1 engine then the valves are not interference so you can rotate it safely without the belt on. If it's a gen 2 then putting the pistons at half bore and then rotate is fine but just be careful.

Not sure about generation. My best guess is Celsior late 1994 (after October) or early 1995.

----

At the ends of the camshaft housings there are some half-circular aluminium blocks (thickness about 7-8 mm or so) that seals off the housings.
Along the half circle there are a couple of tiny recessions.
On the old ones I took out it looked like some gasket maker "cream" had been smeared on these pieces, looked like a tiny O-ring but was rather like gasket material.
Is this something one normally should do, use some gasket maker on these aluminium blocks?

 

[gloverman]

Gen 1 has billet fuel rails with flat machined top surface. Fuel pressure regulator in front of the throttle body.

Gen 2 have round cast fuel rails with fuel pressure regulator behind throttle body.

With the cam blanking plugs one should fit new ones and they still need a little sealant. Not everyone can go to the shelf like me and find some so reusing old ones with sealant.

 

[melvinmelvin]

Gen 1 has billet fuel rails with flat machined top surface. Fuel pressure regulator in front of the throttle body.

Gen 2 have round cast fuel rails with fuel pressure regulator behind throttle body.

With the cam blanking plugs one should fit new ones and they still need a little sealant. Not everyone can go to the shelf like me and find some so reusing old ones with sealant.

Right, thanks.
Based on the fuel pipes; I have 2nd generation.

Nope, cannot do like you and pick new blankings from the shelf.
But I have a table on my terrace that has a plastic box on top in which I can find brand new blanking plugs, so I used them.

 

[melvinmelvin]

Slowly getting the hang of this now I think.

Put on left cylinderhead and cams today, sorted out the timing belt. (First try resulted in some experience of valve interference.)
2nd try OK. (after the experienced interference took the 2 cams off again to check that retainers/keepers were still in order) Takes time this.

Rotated engine, inserted the M6 in right exhaust cam.
Rotated to alignment position and marked pulleys and belt. Off with cams and right cylinder head.
(So much easier to refit the belt when I can follow my own colour marks. Those alignment marks dented on the black covers on the engine could have been better.)

Did the seals.
4 hours and a bit for the 16 seals in the right head.
Not fast, but way quicker than the previous messing about with string/rope. But still a far cry from the ease that is described in the tutorials.

I would be very interested in having a look at the tools that Toyota mechanics use for this job.


Good thing;
found two very awful looking seals on valves for cylinders 6 and 8. Probably the culprits that caused the oil leakage into the exhaust pipe
serving cylinder 6 and 8.

 

[melvinmelvin]

CHANGING THE ALTERNATOR*S SENSING​

2nd generation 1UZ with oval plug on the alternator

I would like to have my alternator sensing directly on the batterypoles rather than sensing internally in the alternator.
The backside of the alternator looks somewhat different from what I am familiar with.

With the alternator resting on the short horizontal part of the backplate;
The biggish bolt (M8?) is sticking out to the left
The oval socket is pointing upwards
There are 3 small bolts on the backside where cables may be attached.
The bolt nearest to the M8 is marked B, the two other small bolts are not marked.

Any hints on having the alternator sensing battery voltage rather than alternator voltage?

 

[melvinmelvin]

CABLES IN THE ALTERNATOR'S OVAL PLUG​

What are these cables for?
Do they have a function beyond switching the no-charge/charge lamp on and off?

 

[gloverman]

Any chance of photos? Wouldn't it be best to wire the alternator as close to the manufactures recommend way? The only change I make if the vehicle doesnt have a factory sense wire (ie a boat) is to run that directly to the B terminal of the alternator. I only wire about 4-5 1uz alternators a month though.

 

[melvinmelvin]

Any chance of photos? Wouldn't it be best to wire the alternator as close to the manufactures recommend way? The only change I make if the vehicle doesnt have a factory sense wire (ie a boat) is to run that directly to the B terminal of the alternator. I only wire about 4-5 1uz alternators a month though.

Yes, maybe it would be best to follow what Toyota recommends. My thinking behind my question was with a possible view to have a few wires removed though.
I have looked around at www through some old wiring recommemdations, my understanding of how the alternator should be wired is as follows:

the top plint in the oval socket is the S (sense) wire and should go to the + battery pole
the lower right plint is the L (light) wire and should go to the charging lamp and further to ground
the lower left plint is the IG (ignition-on) wire and should be fed positive from the ignition-on position of the key
(my assumptions;
the charging lamp should also be fed positive from the ignition-on position so that it lights up
(it was said that when the engine starts and the alternator works it will feed positive onto the L plint,
resulting in the lamp being fed 2 positives and no negatives, hence, it will switch off)
a non-return valve, ie a diode, would be needed on the L wire between the lamp and the ground connection
in order to avoid a short circuit when the alternator starts feeding + to the L plint)

in my case;
I have no charging lamp (and have no real use for one), as I have two excellent battery monitors, one for each battery,
so I see rather accurately what goes in/out of V and A to/from each battery.
The 3 wires from the oval plug vanishes into the loom - not sure where they go,
but I can say for sure that it must be quite some cable distance between the + battery pole and the S wire.
And I can say with almost certainty that there is no diode anywhere in the loom,
the wiring of the charging system could of course utilize a diode inside the ECU box without me being aware of it.

WOULD THE FOLLOWING WIRING WORK OK?:
I connect a AWG14 cable to the B bolt/nut on the alternator and the other end to the battery + pole,
or rather than the pole itself I will connect it to the positive buss nearest to the batteries.
(which battery is connected to the buss varies, could be either one or both - this is normal marine wiring).
And then I just unplug the 3 wires in the oval socket.