NA Drift 1/2UZFE build :)

PARTS FOR SALE: Limited availability on 1UZFE EGR Delete Kits, Torque Converters and Supercharger Fish Brackets. No turbo kits. Email for info: [email protected]

RotaSpinna

New Member
Messages
63
Location
Spring, TX
After much debate, the shop I am working with on my new SC400 project and I have decided NOT to swap in a 2JZ!

I have a stock '94 SC400 that I plan on leaving NA, 2UZFE bottom(with valvesprings and arp/acl goodies), and engine management. After doing a bit of research on the v-eight and this website, I still haven't come up with a good answer to my questions...

I understand the 2UZ pistons with 1UZ heads is a problem due to combustion chamber differences, but will swapping out the crank alone fix this problem? If that alone will help, what will the final compression numbers be? I also thought I read that you might be able to get away with just a thicker Cometic head gasket. If THAT is true, what would the final compression numbers be?

As stated I'd like to keep the engine NA, so factory 1UZ compression or higher is needed. The finished project needs to be done by March, so I'd like to stay on a tight budget and put more labor time into it instead. So no custom piston suggestions please :)

Thanks for the help and suggestions in advance!

Andrew
 

RotaSpinna

New Member
Messages
63
Location
Spring, TX
Well the factory 4.0 is nice and light, but just doesn't make the power NA to push this boat around. Even with intake, headers, and exhaust it would probably be sub-200hp.
 

XR8tt

Active Member
Messages
2,761
Location
Sydney Australia
RPM, cams, compression,forged pistons and rods, gearing should get you there...
To make it work hard between 5000 to 8000 rpm..
If budget doesn't allow forged assembly ???
Limiting RPM to 4000 to 6500 or so rpm... ??
With a few degree less in camshaft overlap...
 

4U2QUIK

Active Member
Messages
1,183
Location
Modesto california
Well the factory 4.0 is nice and light, but just doesn't make the power NA to push this boat around. Even with intake, headers, and exhaust it would probably be sub-200hp.

the non vvti 1uz does well over 260 hp 280tq at the crank and puts down 225 at the wheels factory, and the vvti model does over 300hp at the crank before doing anything. if you do ITB's cams, exaust, and a tune and you'll be damn near 400 hp, and you will be 200 lbs lighter.

The 1uz is every bit as capable as the 2uz and 3uz engines, and it has a huge advantage, it's all aluminum!

also 1uz's are super cheap, easily the cheapest to find of the uz family engines.
I can score a 1uz for between 250$ to 800$ 2uz and 3uz engines start at 1200$ and up, and up and up.........
 

RotaSpinna

New Member
Messages
63
Location
Spring, TX
That is the entire reason behind my 2UZ idea.

ITB's+Cams=$2,500
2UZ bottom with LEX mounts=$800

I'm hoping that the loss of A/C components, PS Pump(going electric), cast headers, MAF, etc. will add up to the weight gain of the iron block(80-90lbs). Not to mention an aluminum radiator, electric fans, and CF hood.
 

RotaSpinna

New Member
Messages
63
Location
Spring, TX
That is kind of my point for going 2UZ.

2UZ bottom+LEX mounts=$800
ITBs+Cams=$2,500

NOW, if you think the 1UZ can do 300rwhp with EMS, intake, headers, and exhaust. I'd much rather do that and save the weight.

Either way the heads will get LEX valve springs and Cometic head gaskets, and the bottom end will get ACL bearings and ARP studs. Obviously, the car will be ditching ALL the comforts to save weight up front as well.

AND of course I will be ordering your Adaptor Plate Kit as well!!!
 

4U2QUIK

Active Member
Messages
1,183
Location
Modesto california
That is kind of my point for going 2UZ.

2UZ bottom+LEX mounts=$800
ITBs+Cams=$2,500

NOW, if you think the 1UZ can do 300rwhp with EMS, intake, headers, and exhaust. I'd much rather do that and save the weight.

Either way the heads will get LEX valve springs and Cometic head gaskets, and the bottom end will get ACL bearings and ARP studs. Obviously, the car will be ditching ALL the comforts to save weight up front as well.

AND of course I will be ordering your Adaptor Plate Kit as well!!!

with just a tune on a stand alone with everything stock will get you 280hp and 280 tq to the wheels. Add headers and you will probably be just around 300hp.

btw, you can have cams reground for 75-150$ a piece. Somethng you might want to look into.
 

RotaSpinna

New Member
Messages
63
Location
Spring, TX
The reason I'm asking these questions, is that there is another driver in the Lone Star Drift Series here that has an '86 Corolla with a 1UZ swap.

With intake(MAF delete), custom headers/exhaust, and SM4 ecu he only put down 230/247 to the wheels. Now in his 2300lb car, it rips! But in my 3000lb boat, 230-250 just isn't going to cut it.
 

4U2QUIK

Active Member
Messages
1,183
Location
Modesto california
sounds like whoever did the tune sucks.....
I'm puling 240hp 280tq at the wheels with stock intake, stock exaust manifolds, and stock cams on my supra, and on my friends truck, and I have dyno sheets and videos to prove it. and it's a shitty tune as far as I'm concerned. We were only able to get 5 of the bins points to work or else we would be able to pull a lot more timing which would give us more hp. The tune is rich too...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5PtR0WFXqw

add headers and cams and you'll be right around 300 easy.
 
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4U2QUIK

Active Member
Messages
1,183
Location
Modesto california
and that's with an early without a tune! add a tune and use a post 95 block and you'll be into the 300's easy.
plus wit hthe 1uz being 200 lbs lighter, it's like having 20 extra hp.
 

RotaSpinna

New Member
Messages
63
Location
Spring, TX
Well FINE! haha

Hopefully, I will be starting to gut the car out and pull the original engine/trans in a week or two. Will definitely have pictures and write-ups soon.
 
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