high revving 1uzfe?

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

tom steele

New Member
Messages
120
Location
fontana california
what does it take for these motors to spin at 8 to 9 thousand rpms and still be reliable? i am guessing valve springs for sure maybe cams and rods of course but what else would you need?
 
You will also need to change the shim over bucket to shimless, to get the best results. I do not recall the Toyota buckets that work for this mod, bit I do believe John Cribb and Zuffen do know.

Ryan
 
Cams, porting, forged rods, forged pistons, great balancing a grood ECU, ITB's, exhaust and around $30,000.00.

Then you have an engine with a life expectancy of 5,000klm's that has no torque to speak of under 3,000rpm.

Don't forget the manual trans swap as you'd need a 7,000rpm stall converter for it to move.

John Cribb is the shim under expert.
 

Attachments

  • 1UZ_incar_7.jpg
    1UZ_incar_7.jpg
    118.8 KB · Views: 9
  • 1UZ_incar_6.jpg
    1UZ_incar_6.jpg
    184.4 KB · Views: 9
If you want to do it on the cheap, just make sure you use the early model rods with ARP bolts in them.Then you can spin it to 8500rpm.
You won't make power unless you do other things but you will still be able to rev it to 8.5K.
 
Yep NZll engine from Yaris is what I used.. With molli retainers..
Didn't use any RB26 / Nissan GTR valve retainers as I wanted LIGHT valve assembly...
Valve springs I bought local with 85Lb seat / 180Lb open..
With Kelford custom turbo cam...
 
If I remember correctly the "Screaming Eagles "Race team in GTP (I think..) run by the actor guy had problems with the cranks on these engines over 7000 rpm with the std. crank at 600 hp levels....They went to flat plane cranks and the engines were more reliable I believe..They were breaking the crank for some reason, harmonics were wreaking havoc on them..

Any one that can confirm this ? I still have the magazine , Turbo and High tech mag with the article..
 
If I remember correctly the "Screaming Eagles "Race team in GTP (I think..) run by the actor guy had problems with the cranks on these engines over 7000 rpm with the std. crank at 600 hp levels....They went to flat plane cranks and the engines were more reliable I believe..They were breaking the crank for some reason, harmonics were wreaking havoc on them..

Any one that can confirm this ? I still have the magazine , Turbo and High tech mag with the article..

Interesting. I thought flat plane cranks on a V8 result in more torsional vibration, but they're lighter than the crossplane cranks.

The flatplane crank was the Cosworth DFV's Achilles heel until Mr. Duckworth came up with a quill shaft that reduced the damage. Of course with a timing belt drive for the UZ valve train, it shouldn't suffer the same problems as the gear driven valve train of the DFV, but I wonder if the torsionals aren't still there?
 
wow a lot of info thanks guys so 8500 is pretty much the limit on these motors and if you go that high you lose your bottom end dont like that guess ill have to rethink this so what do you guys think is the best set up for the 1uzfe? just trying to get ideas only want to do this build once dont want to have to tear apart because something doesn't work with the set up are there any known 1uzfe that have a nice power-band all the way thru the rpm range and still put out about 600-hp anymore would be uncontrollable in the GS shoot 600 will be hard enough to control with a 5-speed
 
If you want to do it on the cheap, just make sure you use the early model rods with ARP bolts in them.Then you can spin it to 8500rpm.
You won't make power unless you do other things but you will still be able to rev it to 8.5K.

thanks i was thinking of putting some of those in but to open the whole botttom end for just that seems a waste if i open it up i would like to do the whole motor just doing homework on it right now so when i have the money it all figured out already plan on just putting a 5 speed in for now untill i can afford to rebuild the motor right...
 
Aha you'll have more chance of rod damage with N/A engine...
With correct tune and appropriate power.. Turbo engines have pressure
on piston on exhaust stroke... Which is where most rods break..
If it was turbocharged ...
 
i have been doing alot of research and it seems not a good idea to take these motors that high without a different crank and they only use those on full race cars because of the harmonics destroy the motors quick.. so what's your guys suggestion for building my motor for the supercharger and getting the most out of it. i am going to build some custom headers just getting the flanges cut this week. also going to put in a t-56 getting a adapter cut out as well this week. so what's your thoughts compression ratio so on...
 
High revving

I rev my 4.7 to 10,000 regularly and have no dramas with crank or anything really. Just pulled the crank out and the bearings hardly look used - I use 100 psi oil pressure though and have my oil holes radiused. I think it may be the light ally rods that help, and of course our short runs in drag racing.
I am converting to titanium RB26 retainers and dual valve springs and will see how that goes I may even rev it higher lol.

PC
 
I rev my 4.7 to 10,000 regularly and have no dramas with crank or anything really. Just pulled the crank out and the bearings hardly look used - I use 100 psi oil pressure though and have my oil holes radiused. I think it may be the light ally rods that help, and of course our short runs in drag racing.
I am converting to titanium RB26 retainers and dual valve springs and will see how that goes I may even rev it higher lol.

PC


How many miles on the engine do you have? Also, if you run it on the street, what rpm do you usually shift at when spirited driving?
 
Paul, his engine, and his racing efforts are somewhat of a legend here.

Here's a thread that tells a bit more about his engine: http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9007

It's not a street motor, but a dedicated drag race motor, running on methanol.

What he's done with it only proves what the motor is capable of, but the cost to do it is beyond the reach of most. His block, for example, is a solid piece of machined billet, vs the cast ally blocks for the 1UZ, and cast iron block of the 2UZ.
 
Last edited:
I'd like to rev a bit higher on a early motor car('93). I don't need 8k+ rpm's, but 7-7500 would be nice. What would be suggested for that range? Could I get away with just a set of valve springs? Do I need rod bolts at that rpm range?

This will be a 500+whp turbo application. Motor will be untouched at these levels, until I want more..
 
so it looks to do it on the cheap just springs would be good but then how do you remove the rev limiter in the ecu? i have a rev speed meter that helps with the speed cut but not the rev limiter? also run a ftc1 by split second for tuning.
 


Top