Custom 1UZFE Flywheel in the U.S.

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4U2QUIK

Active Member
Messages
1,186
Location
Modesto california
So, for forever now finding a UZFE flywheel for manual conversions in the usa has been a major undertaking. The only options out there have been modified cast flywheels. (not just the 3sgte flywheels) or having them imported from out of the country.
After I test this prototype throughally this will no longer be the case.
I present to you my billet steel flywheel.

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and yes, it's not quite finished, but I think you get the idea


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click the pic. it's a video

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Well done! Now the inevitable string of questions:

1) Is your ring gear machined from the same billet, or is it a separate ring gear, shrunk on? Is it hardened in any way? If not, it might be a good idea to have it hardened somehow.

2) How much friction surface will the flywheel have, and/or which clutches will work?

3) What will it weigh?

4) And, of course, how much will it cost, and what's the time to delivery?
 
The ring gear is a OEM off the shelf item. It appears to be forged then machined.
It's shrunk on and tack welded minimally.

This flywheel is setup to use the standard Rxx and Wxx series transmission clutch discs.

friction area outside diameter is 9.5"

so far weight is 24 Lbs, Which isn't wonderfull, but it's not bad either.

cost (just a off the hip guestimate) should be around 4-500$ I'm trying really really hard to keep the costs down.

Once the prototyp is done I'll be having 10 of these made up, so shipping will be less than a week before it leaves my door.

and
BTW thanks for the constructive questions!

also, I probably could configure one of these for a twin or triple disc clutch, but I doubt it would work with the t56 hydraulic throwout bearing setup. You'd have to go with a howe or quartermaster which would be ok because they'd be sitting furthur back on the guide tube. So they wouldn't be likely to fail like they do when sitting on a aluminum spacer 1/3rd of the way off the guide tube. This is the real reason people have failure issues with the howe. That and mis alignment of the imput shaft from a bad design.
 
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I think if you can cut the weight down a bit & offer a couple of clutches, with different spline options for the different trannies, plus a good hydraulic release bearing setup, you'll have yourself a winner. Say get the flywheel itself down to around 15 lbs, plus another 15 for the clutch?

Just as a suggestion, if I were you, I'd try to offer an integrated solution, ie flywheel, clutch & release bearing, so nothing is left to chance. I'd offer a big single organic setup for those who have to have the slippability, then a twin disc with either kevlar, carbon or metallic linings, then a triple, setup the same way as the twin.

You'd want spline setups for the R&W Toyota trannies, plus the V160 Getrag, and I'd guess the Tremecs.

A single release bearing would not work for all setups, as its bore diameter and/or that of the master would need to be "tuned" for the best fit. Obviously on the twin & triple setups you'd need less travel on the release bearing than with the big single organic. There are several of us here who, I'm sure, would be willing to work with you to find the optimum hydraulic setup for each type of clutch. I've done this already on three Supras and one Ferrari, and would be more than happy to assist on this setup.

Just ensure there's no Chinese content....... You don't want any QA/QC problems with 30 lbs of steel spinning at 7500 RPM.

Perhaps partnering with a known clutch supplier would be a good option?
 
I think if you can cut the weight down a bit & offer a couple of clutches, with different spline options for the different trannies, plus a good hydraulic release bearing setup, you'll have yourself a winner. Say get the flywheel itself down to around 15 lbs, plus another 15 for the clutch?

I indicated the flywheel back onto the lathe and turned 7 Lbs. off the backside, I could have turned more off but I wanted to leave a good strong base to accept large powerloads. Plus I think I'll be able to shave a couple or few more pounds off when I do the millwork. So, 15Lbs is definately do-able.

As for the differnt clutches with different spline counts, I'm mostly trying to focus on perfecting the W and R series transmission conversions.

and for my hyd. throwout I have a real solid setup that works with several different flywheel and presure plate combinations.

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Utilizing the GM Hyfraulic throwout bearing! Which works a million times better than any of the howe/quartermaster for these transmission swaps. Plus you can buy a dorman unit from rock auto for about 80$ shipped. Only drawback is that it would be nice to have a bigger clutch master cylinder for obvious reasons. But the clutch pedal isn't horrible with the stock one. It's Just not perfect.

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we actually cut out the bottom of a 1uz bellhousing to make sure this hydraulic throwout bearing setup worked absolutely perfect.




Just as a suggestion, if I were you, I'd try to offer an integrated solution, ie flywheel, clutch & release bearing, so nothing is left to chance. I'd offer a big single organic setup for those who have to have the slippability, then a twin disc with either kevlar, carbon or metallic linings, then a triple, setup the same way as the twin.

You'd want spline setups for the R&W Toyota trannies, plus the V160 Getrag, and I'd guess the Tremecs.

Working on that ;) if you take a look on my store I started adding complete packages. But it takes time to figure each setup out. I learned a few hard lessons when I started doing these adaptor plates, so I like to take my time and make sure everything is worked out now.
I have access to 3 or 4 different multi disc clutch setups that I want to try out also. It's all just a matter of having time to get it all done.


A single release bearing would not work for all setups, as its bore diameter and/or that of the master would need to be "tuned" for the best fit. Obviously on the twin & triple setups you'd need less travel on the release bearing than with the big single organic. There are several of us here who, I'm sure, would be willing to work with you to find the optimum hydraulic setup for each type of clutch. I've done this already on three Supras and one Ferrari, and would be more than happy to assist on this setup.

Just ensure there's no Chinese content....... You don't want any QA/QC problems with 30 lbs of steel spinning at 7500 RPM.

Perhaps partnering with a known clutch supplier would be a good option?

I'm fairly sure that the multi disc setups would requre a different hyd. bearing setup than my T56 setup as it's too tall. But, I'm pretty sure the howe or quartermaster would actually work good for this application because they would be sitting at the base of the guide tube instead of way out on the end, on top of a janky bearing spacer, wobbling around just waiting for disaster. (I've whitnessed how it wobbles through our windowed bellhousing. Scary Stuff!).

As for the chinese stuff, I'll kick my own ass before selling that crap. The chinese have pretty much decimated the industry I'm in.

I'm a QMR/Inspector for a ISO 9000:2008 compliant manufacturing facility that services major names in the spce, science, and manufacturing industries. So I know a thing or two about QC ;)
 
another thing I wanted to add is that I found that most of the toyota flywheels and pressure plates have the same crank face to pressure plate face distances. Even with aftermarket pressure plates and aftermarket flywheels (dellows drilled for the 2jpp). So it make it easy to have a 1 solution fits all for the W and R single disc setups.
 
As for the differnt clutches with different spline counts, I'm mostly trying to focus on perfecting the W and R series transmission conversions.

Personally I think the W boxes are a waste of time & money. They're the lowest priced manual conversion going, but surely anyone who converts an SC or an LS to manual is going to want more power afterward. So they'll be turbo'ing or supercharging, and that's when a W58 will pack it in.

Utilizing the GM Hyfraulic throwout bearing! Which works a million times better than any of the howe/quartermaster for these transmission swaps. Plus you can buy a dorman unit from rock auto for about 80$ shipped. Only drawback is that it would be nice to have a bigger clutch master cylinder for obvious reasons. But the clutch pedal isn't horrible with the stock one. It's Just not perfect.

I think sleeving the master works really well - maybe even better than boring a conventional slave. I just finished sleeving down the master in my Ferrari from 7/8" to 5/8" and the OS Giken triple with metallic linings really drives sweet now. I've overbored the Supra's slave cylinders by the same amount, but didn't have nearly as satisfactory results as with the Ferrari clutch. Obviously with a hydraulic release setup, modifying its bore after the installation isn't an option, and that's why I worked on the master side for the Ferrari.

As for the chinese stuff, I'll kick my own ass before selling that crap. The chinese have pretty much decimated the industry I'm in.

Good for you; it's about time people started refusing this junk.

I'm a QMR/Inspector for a ISO 9000:2008 compliant manufacturing facility that services major names in the spce, science, and manufacturing industries. So I know a thing or two about QC ;)

That's also good to hear; so given your QA/QC background, do you really think selling slotted 3SGTE flywheels is wise?

 
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Personally I think the W boxes are a waste of time & money. They're the lowest priced manual conversion going, but surely anyone who converts an SC or an LS to manual is going to want more power afterward. So they'll be turbo'ing or supercharging, and that's when a W58 will pack it in.
I think a lot of the W boxes get a bad rep. because of poor alignment issues and beccause a lot of the ones people use are high mileage, and not so much because they're not a good design... Up to a point, and it depends on which W box you get. They're not all built the same. Some have steel center plates and others don't, and that seems to make a big difference in power handling.


I think sleeving the master works really well - maybe even better than boring a conventional slave. I just finished sleeving down the master in my Ferrari from 7/8" to 5/8" and the OS Giken triple with metallic linings really drives sweet now. I've overbored the Supra's slave cylinders by the same amount, but didn't have nearly as satisfactory results as with the Ferrari clutch. Obviously with a hydraulic release setup, modifying its bore after the installation isn't an option, and that's why I worked on the master side for the Ferrari.
I've considered boring the clutch masters, but what happens if it fails? where do you find replacement parts? A big part of what I'm trying to do that no-one else is doing, is using as much off the shelf, redily available replacement parts for this swap. That way upkeep is easy, simple, and affordable as possible. So, I'm going to do a compromise like my friend at daft innovations uses.
http://www.helladaftproducts.com/images/DSCN0662.jpg
http://www.helladaftproducts.com/images/DSCN0666.jpg
If someone has a s13 of s14 I can just provide these lol..
but on a more serious note, It 's easy for me to make this style of adaptor for the cnc or willowood clutch masters. Albeit it's not a off the shelf solution, but if you have a decent local race shop the're usually avalable, and you can get them next day from summit or jegs.


Good for you; it's about time people started refusing this junk.

people still need to try harder.
But, the work does seem to be slowly coming back.
I actually have a funny story I heard from the head engineer at Fox Shocks about dealing with chinese manufacturers. Those people are insidious! Ludicris and stupid, and their boom will not last if they keep thei insanely arrogant greedy attitudes towards american engineering firms.
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That's also good to hear; so given your QA/QC background, do you really think selling slotted 3SGTE flywheels is wise? http://www.1uzfeswapkit.com/Modified-3SGTE-Flywheel-0000-0008.htm
It's not ideal, but I also think there's are a lot of fear mongering that goes along with this flywheel. If it were a cast Iron flywheel and not a cast Steel flywheel I'd be much more concerned because of the nodular, brittle nature of cast iron as opposed to cast steel. Cast Iron starts doing weird inexplicable stuff when you start taking material off.
Biggest reason why I do these is because I have no other solution till I finish my billet flywheels, and almost everyone I talk to rather buy a modified 3s flywheel from me than deal with my competition and buy their modified v6 tacoma flywheel. (I'm thinking about switching to those flywheels because it's less work and I could sell them for 150$. about half of what the other guys sell them for.)
 
flywheel

i just went to clutch masters today have them looking into making some but with a 10.5 inch clutch the 9.5 wont work for us that are pushing more than stock numbers. would have to go to a twin disc setup then the price is thru the roof. autoronic helped me with one on solid works so i am trying to work with clutch masters to get them made we will see. it will use a mustang pressure plate then what ever 10.5 inch dish depending on trans mine is for the t-56 so ill use an old 5.0 camero disc. 26 spline for the gto box and looking at just using a hydraulic throw out bearing for clutch release. hope they will make this if they do this will be a cheaper alternative to the twin disc set up.
 
There's plenty of 9.5" options out there that hold well over stock power. My current setup is rated well over 500 hp. Which is almost double stock power. I'll post more about it later when I'm not at work lol...
 
i just went to clutch masters today have them looking into making some but with a 10.5 inch clutch the 9.5 wont work for us that are pushing more than stock numbers. would have to go to a twin disc setup then the price is thru the roof. autoronic helped me with one on solid works so i am trying to work with clutch masters to get them made we will see. it will use a mustang pressure plate then what ever 10.5 inch dish depending on trans mine is for the t-56 so ill use an old 5.0 camero disc. 26 spline for the gto box and looking at just using a hydraulic throw out bearing for clutch release. hope they will make this if they do this will be a cheaper alternative to the twin disc set up.

So, I definately am looking into a bigger disc setup in the future when I furthur develope my r154 kit, and when I finally come out with the T56 plate. It will become a neccessity. But for right now The bulk of what I sell are Wxx adaptor plates, so a larger custom setup is out of the question for now since 99% of these people are doing it as a budget build, and simply wont have the need for anything that can hold over 300HP. My biggest goal right now is to get a quality flywheel that's built specifically for our application.
 
clutch masters told me about 500 for a custom one but they never called me back havent had time to go back and talk to them again. 450 is good for a aluminium flywheel what insert are you using for a friction surface? one from findeza?
 
So, I definately am looking into a bigger disc setup in the future when I furthur develope my r154 kit, and when I finally come out with the T56 plate. It will become a neccessity. But for right now The bulk of what I sell are Wxx adaptor plates, so a larger custom setup is out of the question for now since 99% of these people are doing it as a budget build, and simply wont have the need for anything that can hold over 300HP. My biggest goal right now is to get a quality flywheel that's built specifically for our application.

you forget i am supercharged so i need that extra holding power... its getting to be a pain now just for a flywheel so i am starting to look at dct trans from getrag or there amt trans dont know how i would go about making a adapter for one until i see one in person. but that would be nice manuel performance without pushing in a clutch sounds good to me. i really am getting old lol.....
 


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