1UZ-FE vs. 1UZ-FE VVTI
- Thread starter Drizt
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The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I highly doubt that they have multiple at that price.
It is pretty much the only place I have ever seen it advertised.
And a few weeks before it was sold, it was advertised for $2850.
Dunno why they reduced the price.
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Given that we all know little about the VVTi engine and it's wiring loom and how it all works I would not spend the additional 2 or so grand to buy the VVTi over the early motor.
For the cost of the VVTi engine you would do a DIY supercharger set up.
For the cost of the VVTi engine you would do a DIY supercharger set up.
very valid points...
you can get a VVT for $1850.. i posted a link in the other thread....
but you are most likely correct. Just thought it would be could to have the VVT up and running...
so really you would need aftermarket to run anything bigger than an M90...
thanks.. thats what i was after
you can get a VVT for $1850.. i posted a link in the other thread....
but you are most likely correct. Just thought it would be could to have the VVT up and running...
so really you would need aftermarket to run anything bigger than an M90...
thanks.. thats what i was after
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To my knowledge no one has tried running an M112 on the standard ECU. I would expect you would need larger injectors but I can't see why it wouldn't work.
The big difference between the 90 & 112 is how much bottom end you will get and the 112 won't run out of capacity at higher revs. The M90 gets a bit breathless above 6,000rpm and will start heating the air badly and cause detonation for which you retard the timing and lose power.
I feel the 112 is a better unit for more than 6lb but then you're into aftermarket ECU's.
The big difference between the 90 & 112 is how much bottom end you will get and the 112 won't run out of capacity at higher revs. The M90 gets a bit breathless above 6,000rpm and will start heating the air badly and cause detonation for which you retard the timing and lose power.
I feel the 112 is a better unit for more than 6lb but then you're into aftermarket ECU's.
Peewee
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Adelaide J@P had one VVT-i for $1850, with a cut loom, and a member on this forum bought it.Drizt said:
I highly doubt that they have multiple at that price.
It is pretty much the only place I have ever seen it advertised.
And a few weeks before it was sold, it was advertised for $2850.
Dunno why they reduced the price.
cars noddy
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Hi Guys, i bought the one from Adelaide ***.
should be starting it for the first time in 2 to 3 weeks all going well.
sometimes wished i had bought the standard one as there is more support and experience to be gained. But i guess if it all goes well and pushes my Bayliner boat hard enough to get onto the plane ill be more than happy.
I have striped it from all accesseries and have fallen inlove with the design and engine itself. if the wife would let me i wouldhave brought it inside of a night.
(as i did with the cut of engine wiring loom, copped an ear full for that.)
The intake manifild and engine design is just like the 3uz spec sheet of which os found in the forum. so i have ben lookking there for help.
microtech ecu has put 2 extra output , one for the vvti so that i can have that cut in whatever rpm i like and the other for the intake manifold butterfly valve opening which controls the length of the intake tubes from short to long aiding the tourqe figures.
as i want all my power down below the 4000 rpm i have to play around a bit.
if it doesnt end up having enough torque it will go in the f100 i have or on the market. Or a small ski boat project?. Does anybody know the NM torque figures for a standard 351 for windsor?
thats what i took out of my boat.
I am hoping that the weight savings will help me, as i have shed about 175 to 200 kg will the transplant.
If it goes back on the market, it will be about 3 grand with the microtech ecu and all the original accesseries. I still would be short out of pocket.
But we will have to wait and see. I could change my prop, but didnt want to loose too much of the original speed.
Paul
should be starting it for the first time in 2 to 3 weeks all going well.
sometimes wished i had bought the standard one as there is more support and experience to be gained. But i guess if it all goes well and pushes my Bayliner boat hard enough to get onto the plane ill be more than happy.
I have striped it from all accesseries and have fallen inlove with the design and engine itself. if the wife would let me i wouldhave brought it inside of a night.
(as i did with the cut of engine wiring loom, copped an ear full for that.)
The intake manifild and engine design is just like the 3uz spec sheet of which os found in the forum. so i have ben lookking there for help.
microtech ecu has put 2 extra output , one for the vvti so that i can have that cut in whatever rpm i like and the other for the intake manifold butterfly valve opening which controls the length of the intake tubes from short to long aiding the tourqe figures.
as i want all my power down below the 4000 rpm i have to play around a bit.
if it doesnt end up having enough torque it will go in the f100 i have or on the market. Or a small ski boat project?. Does anybody know the NM torque figures for a standard 351 for windsor?
thats what i took out of my boat.
I am hoping that the weight savings will help me, as i have shed about 175 to 200 kg will the transplant.
If it goes back on the market, it will be about 3 grand with the microtech ecu and all the original accesseries. I still would be short out of pocket.
But we will have to wait and see. I could change my prop, but didnt want to loose too much of the original speed.
Paul
Dreamkiller
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Out of curiosity, will the intake manifold from the VVTi fit the earlier version?
Would be alot better for twin turbo applications as far as plumbing is concerned.
It also looks like it has more volume.
Would be alot better for twin turbo applications as far as plumbing is concerned.
It also looks like it has more volume.
Lextreme II
Just call me "Lex"
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The earlier intake should work on the later version. If you plan to do FI, i highly recommend earlier intake.
cars noddy
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i would think that the later vvti intake manifold would fit the earlier engine.
the intake rams would be twice the length as far as i can tell. i dont think that you would need to run the acis control valve (the acis controls the intake manifold valve spindle which effectivly shortens the intake port length by simply creating a bypass short cut when opened.)
I believe it is set to operate between 2500 and 4500 rpm. and closes after that.
Having the intake at the front of the engine would have to help the piping from the turbo??
Paul
the intake rams would be twice the length as far as i can tell. i dont think that you would need to run the acis control valve (the acis controls the intake manifold valve spindle which effectivly shortens the intake port length by simply creating a bypass short cut when opened.)
I believe it is set to operate between 2500 and 4500 rpm. and closes after that.
Having the intake at the front of the engine would have to help the piping from the turbo??
Paul
Lextreme II
Just call me "Lex"
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From my personal experience and see few VVTi engine with FI. The later intake will have lots of head from the radiator. Most pipes run right behind the radiator. This route will heat up the intake pipe from the heat radiation. The old intake is on the side and bypass heat from the radiator. Here are two examples:
Older Intake:
Newer Intake:
Older Intake:
Newer Intake:
turboandrew
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A properly insulated intake pipe should keep the heat from the intake air. Using a shroud on the radiator would probably help, too. The biggest problem I see with the vvti motors is controlling the vvti well. If you can piggy back the stock ECU, then it's probably not an issue. At some point I'll be working on controlling it with a standalone, probably the AEM EMS. I am certain the AEM can send a PWM'd signal to the vvti solenoids, but I need to make sure the AEM can read the extra cam sensor and understand how it's used. My understanding is that they have already done some work like this on variable cam timing on Honda (not just vtec, but variable timing, like vvti, in addition to vtec control).
cars noddy
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keping the air cool would only be a miner issue to solve. the advantage of the better air intake manifold I think would out way the negatives.
As for vvti, there must be a guru out there somewhere as these things become more ready available.
Paul
As for vvti, there must be a guru out there somewhere as these things become more ready available.
Paul
LEXUSV8NZ
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Your worried about the heat from the radiator?
With the early inlet manifold it directs the inlet piping directly above the exhaust manifold (All be it further away, but a lot hotter)
If you coat the piping (or wrap it) I cant see any proble with running it behind the radiator
Logan
With the early inlet manifold it directs the inlet piping directly above the exhaust manifold (All be it further away, but a lot hotter)
If you coat the piping (or wrap it) I cant see any proble with running it behind the radiator
Logan
Dreamkiller
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With the later manifold the piping to it would be ALOT shorter, reducing pressure loss from traveling further. Not to mention they look sh%T hot!!
cars noddy
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also the later engine has no distributors, just 1 cam and crank sensor controling no.1 cylinder. 1 single ignitor and coil for each plug cap resulting in less voltage lost and more reliable ignition system.
(all from the spec sheet)
(all from the spec sheet)
quadcam boat
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I have a post discussing inlet manifold swaps down in the hybred UZFE section. Don't know all the answers yet!
supercarracer999
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I too was wondering about the VVT and if it was worth it or not. I have a non-VVT 1uz and want to use it in a twin turbo project car so I figured VVT would be the best to help with low end power and turbo lag as well as give the engine a broad and flat powerband. I really dont like cam tuning and having a "sweet spot" for the revs plus I want to know if the VVT can be reprogrammed for just driving around town (mild setting) and sport (sport setting). Can anyone help me with this?
JBrady
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The VVTi 1UZFE and 3UZFE engines have both variable intake valve timing and ACIS (acoustic control induction system) which is the 8 butterfly valves in the top inside of the plenum (not visable from the outside) that effectively shorten the runner length at high RPM.
As controlled by the factory ECU the ACIS only operates above 4700rpm and 60% or more throttle opening. Openning these valves below 4700rpm it is not likely to help and in fact may hurt power although the longer runners and better port angles make that intake manifold a better part that will likely outperform the earlier manifolds at low to mid RPM torque.
As far as the intake valve timing... it is not an ON/OFF type arrangement but rather an interactive thing that adjusts the advance/retard/overlap condition continuously.
At idle the intake is at maximum retard creating ZERO valve overlap and a late closing intake that effectively creates a miller cycle event.
At low to medium RPM with heavy load (open throttle) the cam is maximum advanced.
At high speed/load AND at light load the cam is between max advance and retard.
So, the VVTi can create a wider torque curve than without it and the ACIS will create more peak power and more low speed torque than without it.
Cars Noddy, Paul, for below 4000rpm operation the smaller Lexus engine will not create the torque of a 5.0 or 5.8 liter Ford.
As controlled by the factory ECU the ACIS only operates above 4700rpm and 60% or more throttle opening. Openning these valves below 4700rpm it is not likely to help and in fact may hurt power although the longer runners and better port angles make that intake manifold a better part that will likely outperform the earlier manifolds at low to mid RPM torque.
As far as the intake valve timing... it is not an ON/OFF type arrangement but rather an interactive thing that adjusts the advance/retard/overlap condition continuously.
At idle the intake is at maximum retard creating ZERO valve overlap and a late closing intake that effectively creates a miller cycle event.
At low to medium RPM with heavy load (open throttle) the cam is maximum advanced.
At high speed/load AND at light load the cam is between max advance and retard.
So, the VVTi can create a wider torque curve than without it and the ACIS will create more peak power and more low speed torque than without it.
Cars Noddy, Paul, for below 4000rpm operation the smaller Lexus engine will not create the torque of a 5.0 or 5.8 liter Ford.
GSMnow
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I am not a boat expert, but...
In the boat application, you may want to re-prop it to make use of the higher rpm range of the motor. Cruise rpm should run at 5500 to make best use of the engines power band. Using a lower pitch prop is just like using a lower rear end gear in a car. It should launch harder and get the motor up into it's power band quicker. Going back to the old "engine is an air pump" idea. 4.0L @ 5000 rpm is about the same as 5.0L @ 4000 rpm. So by my rough calculation, if you had a 14" pitch prop you could change to an 11" or so for more acceleration and still get a top end increase with the more powerfull engine.
Gary M.
In the boat application, you may want to re-prop it to make use of the higher rpm range of the motor. Cruise rpm should run at 5500 to make best use of the engines power band. Using a lower pitch prop is just like using a lower rear end gear in a car. It should launch harder and get the motor up into it's power band quicker. Going back to the old "engine is an air pump" idea. 4.0L @ 5000 rpm is about the same as 5.0L @ 4000 rpm. So by my rough calculation, if you had a 14" pitch prop you could change to an 11" or so for more acceleration and still get a top end increase with the more powerfull engine.
Gary M.
