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at 350-400 HP im not sure you could get 18 mpg. you MIGHT be able to if you are willing to do some serious work on the intake and exhaust flow numbers, as well chainging the cams to a slightly more agressive grind. but the LS400 is not a light car, and it has an automatic, so it wouldnt suprise...

nice power. whats that 650 at the crank?

what are the specs on those rods? length, material etc.

it wont handle like a sports car unless you want to forsake the luxury.

nice shop. wish i had one like that :P

yes, i like ceramics, they have alot of good qualities, and some bad ones. i see absoluteley no problem with coating a crank shaft as long as you use the coating that will do whats needed, shed oil off the crank shaft, a crank scraper wouldnt remove oil from the whole crank. a windage tray...

my thought on crank scrapers is that there are more effecient methods to keep oil off the crank. there are ceramic coatings for the crank and rods that keep heavy oil from accumulating and keeping parasitic loss down. a ceramic coating also doesnt need to be reengineered for every engine, like a...

thats the theory. apparently its a pretty serious problem in fuel injected rotary engines.

ok, so your going to shove 20+ PSI through a stock 1UZ, on race gas? and you expect it to survive? if your going any less then you wont need race gas. you see my point?

if you need 110 race gas, then you are making way to much power for the stock internals to handle.

yes, that would be right. the coils going is the only thing that i can think of that will make the whole engine run hot all at once. what with most of the plugs not firing with enough power, or even firing at all.

if thats the case, then the car could probly use some injector cleaner and a new air filter. or maybe just a whole tune-up.

a stock 1UZ isnt going to be doing anything for long on 110 race gas.

well if its an engine builder with lots of projects, then i can understand it. but if he only has a few projects, or even just yours, it should be done quickly. after all, it is only one engine. and even if blueprinting and balancing take a month or two, the actual assembly of the engine should...

why so long on the engine? it shouldnt take that much time.

its as tall as it is long, wow. and almost as wide. that is a big engine.

if the exhaust port or header is coated in ceramics(both would be much better) it should get some improvement when running. i doubt you will see anyting on a flow bench though. you could also try using a golf ball effect on the port.

yes, extrude hone would take care of the problem of the long runners.

ceramic coatings on the crank outer surface(the sufaces that dont touch bearins and the like),rods and bottom of the pistons to shed oil. ceramics on all the bearings, piston pins, piston skirts, and cylinder walls to reduce friction. heat reflecting ceramics on the piston faces, combustion...

you could use water injection. its been proven to reduce intake temps in a eaton supercharged NSX. it would probly be the most space effective solution in terms on the engine bay. as for cooling, electric fans and some Redline Water Wetter may help(or the equivalent product, like Royal Purple's...