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I took a few hours while waiting for my starter to be rebuilt to work on the ports; I limited my efforts to the divider down inside the ports. The shape of this portion is rather blunt from the factory, and I was able to give it a sharper profile like that on a rocket's nose cone using a Dremel...

I was looking at the motor specs that were available at Toyota.com, and the stroke was said to be some 4", with the bore being the same as the 4.7 at 3.31 or something. That's a huge stroke, same as a 454 if I'm not mistaken. I'm wondering what the heads are like, if they are using larger...

That's interesting; I had a swapped OBDII,GM V6 that would not rev while standing still, and this vehicle had not even used the speed sensor, yet would rev up nicely on the road. I never did find the problem, never really bothered me except when someone else wanted to hear the motor.

That's interesting; I had a swapped OBDII,GM V6 that would not rev while standing still, and this vehicle had not even used the speed sensor, yet would rev up nicely on the road. I never did find the problem, never really bothered me except when someone else wanted to hear the motor.

Yup, you want to keep the front roll center in the same relative place as the rear suspension, as it came in the original vehicle.

Late model 911 shouldn't be a problem on the highway, provided you're tuned properly. The lag shouldn't be too bad either with the stock intake runners being made for good response.

The torque convertor locks up at around 40mph.

Another thing to note; the manifold mounts at an angle to the centerline of the port, so if you just measure the gasket, you will get a false, larger number than reality. The port itself is equal to a 38mm Dia. section, and flares up to 41.5 at the plenum, approx.12.5" runner.

The taper is alright; about 2mm over the length of the runner.

There is going to be a big difference in what a stock cam will require vs a re-ground/undercut cam, this would make the bank only useable to those with stock engines doing tuneups etc. Went through all this years ago with the Fiats, and Alfas and wound up modding the cam boxes(castings) to use...

You answered your own question and didn't realize it; you're in L.A. man, the most image concious society around, and cars are the way to be seen around town. I can recall hangin' down in the marina a few years back, and seeing retired people cruising in convertible Mercedes AMGs, thinking...

Small block Ford uses a port spacing that's close to ours, may be an option. I was looking at getting some headers and adapting then for use on my car.

The IRL engines use a similar valve arrangement, and the compression is high to work with the longer duration cams.

I was looking at this also, then decided that if the trans was marginal in a lighter Mustang, then it wouldn't survive in our heavier cars. The R-154 moved into the spotlight, then I did some tuning, got some more power, and am happy again, for awhile.

I agree; once you've simplified the injection, ignition wiring, it's fairly basic.

I have done that before when the ignition timing was way out. Do you use a wasted spark setup?

When you short the right connector under the hood, the check engine light will flash once, pause for a couple seconds, then flash two more times before repeating the cycle. That would indicate a code 12.

I would think that the injector would click when you put a charge to it, right?

You pretty much have to just look at the valve sizes, dispacement on these more-rare engines since they don't have a huge aftermarket following. I also have had a strong desire to one day own and drive a 60 degree V12, must have been that ride in the Ferrari 250 years ago.

This is great; I hope that in the (near) future that there are even more files available to share amongst ourselves for the sake of performance/hotrodding. I work with prototypes daily, and we have had discussions about what the future holds now that CNC machinery is becoming more common and...