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Hey all I searched and didnt really find an answer but what is the bore serparation on the 1uz engines? and the distance from the center of the cylinder 1 to the front of the block? on a side note does anyone know where I can find a completely dimensioned 1uz engine diagram of some sort?

Its pretty easy, if you have the motor on a stand with the wiring exposed then you can just basically bench test the starter. But the intake is easy, just make sure not to drop anything inside.

I personally have not, but I dont see a prob with it. Would anyone be interested in a remote mount kit?

being able to hear this sound under my hood!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ba8sT2BQ4uc&mode=related&search=

I'M ON IT! just trying to find time to finish!

as far as the engine loading question, what some friends of mine had done in the past to test rotary engines (to apply load to see at what PSI the seals most often broke) they got and old flywheel and pretty much welded a brake rotor on the back of it. They then got some parts so they could use...

all I can say is that if you can turn the engine over with a socket then dont even think about opening it up. take out the plugs and spray a little oil in and then open the TB and spray some fogging oil so no rust will rear its ugly little head.

Thats pretty sweet, I cant wait till I can get a professional port job on my heads to support my insane NA goal.

Chevy T56, I hate word count

With this particular car it comes in at a sorta heavy 1250kg, not too much but it is lighter then a LS or SC, and with this project money doesnt matter I want it done right and just once. it will have a 6speed tranny also, and I am planning on a .020" overbore and high comp

The bending of the valve concern was more directed towards the spings, such as in high rpm, floating a valve and have the piston smash it. so if I get a nice set of billets I wont really have to worry about the shims, which brings me to springs, what is a suitable upgrade?

another question; the rods are an easy fix but the valvetrain is another story. What can we do to sustain higher revs and not "spit a shim" or bend a valve. I have heard of some of the other toyota engines have shimless buckets, what are the sizes of the shims needed and from what engines...

Hey all, I am looking for one or two spare auto tranny bellhousings so I can science out some adapters for my project. But just PM me or send me an email via [email protected] so we can work out a deal for some bellhousings. Barry

I knew I remember seeing this car prior to seeing it in SuperStreet, badass car man gotta love all the chrome. what stopped you from buildting the motor up at all? Kudos

Well my stock tach only goes to 8,000 so I am not taking it past that and I will most likely set my rev limit at 7,000rpm. I am aslo going with a microtech system for the EMS, and mild cams and some inconel headers are in the mix. so your saying that I should pop for the extra $899 and buy...

hey all I have gone through my turbo phase with my old rotories and wanted to get back to the high revs and no lag of my NA rotors, but instead I want to do it with the 1UZ. So I was thinking of 11.5:1 - 12:1 CR and .20 over bore/pistons and maybe a mild cam with some head work. But I am...

Dont mean to lurk and bring this one up from the dead, but the F430 actually makes 112 bhp per liter, which gives an impressive 483 bhp:shock:

I had been under the impresssion that this is a rear sump motor from a SC400. Or that is what LKQ told me, LKQ also told me i was getting the mounts and accesories with and "uncut" harness yet I did not recieve them. But I believe it is a rear sump to my knowledge and it fits so it is a moot...

Have you flow benched those heads in comparison with a stock 1UZ head?

Just a really good and sharp carbide bit to take out the metal and little sanding drums to smooth it out, and I am just using a little dremel tool. Thanks man