Yet another 1uz mk4 supra

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Red Supra

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387
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Chicago
Got the motor and trans in the car today. I'm using the sc400/soarer motor with stock uz bellhousing and GM turbo 400 tranny. Everything lines up perfectly without any fabrication. I'm heavily leaning towards a single turbo since there is no room for 2x 3" downpipes in the engine bay, yet there is room for 2 turbos(gt30) in front of the motor. Using an oval 3.5" tube i can just sneak it between the pass side frame rail and motor mount. That will be my downpipe routing. Hoping to finalize turbo location friday and start making manifolds Monday. By the looks of things the turbo inlet will face the passenger fender and compressor outlet will point straight down.

I picked up a set of brand new engine mounts and boy are they soft! I wonder how long they will last before ripping themselves. Does anyone make harder engine mounts for the sc400?

Max
 
Sounds great. I take it you got one of the TH400's designed for a toyota bellhousing?

I will try to fit 2 3" downpipes. but I guess we'll see how it works out. I am leaning towards having my turbos be quite low in the front, the compressor air inlets routing below the rails, then 180 degrees around the front of the car where the FMIC would be (I am using two side mount IC's). the compressor discharge will also be routed under the rails, but to the sides of the car, to where side air ducts are, which each will house an IC. Cooled air out of the IC will route up through the fenders, into the engine bay, the join right before the throttle.
 
I don't know the exact year of the engine. It's 89-96 i guess without vvti and side entry TB. Something is making me think it came from a 95 SC400. The smallest turbo i would use would be a 71mm S trim(875 crank), the largest i would be a 76mm S trim(1150 crank). My turbo selection is mainly dictated by size. I'm not out to make a **** load of power, if i was i would have kept the 2jz and used a gt47 88mm(1700 crank). Just want something more drivable with little lag.

Having a road clearance is my number 1 objective to satisfy. I was looking at different ways to run 2x 3" downpipes and the only way would be to run under the front engine cradle or behind the strut under the upper control arm. Dr. Gas makes some real cool clearance piping. http://www.drgas.com/catolog.asp?id=2
Even with a 1 1/4" thin pipe under the car it would hit and get crushed sooner or later since i drive it every day except when it snows and when the roads are salted down.

Of course yet another way is to do it porsche style and use really short downpipes and attach mufflers right after the turbo. The exhaust would have to be dumped in front of the front tires. I don't think that is DOT approved for street use.
 
i sortta saw these clearance problems already when i was mucking around with my setup... i'll be running extractors first and watch how you two pioneers work out the clearance issues, then i can reverse it (RHD JDM mk4) and work it into my project, hehe.... also, i really wanted to see how far i can take the n/a before i go T or TT....

some pics would be great aye??? hehe, i love pictures, big and bright.
 
turboandrew said:
Sounds great. I take it you got one of the TH400's designed for a toyota bellhousing?

I will try to fit 2 3" downpipes. but I guess we'll see how it works out. I am leaning towards having my turbos be quite low in the front, the compressor air inlets routing below the rails, then 180 degrees around the front of the car where the FMIC would be (I am using two side mount IC's). the compressor discharge will also be routed under the rails, but to the sides of the car, to where side air ducts are, which each will house an IC. Cooled air out of the IC will route up through the fenders, into the engine bay, the join right before the throttle.

TH400 bolt up with no fabrication?
 
Big and bright pictures

Here are some pictures i took so far.
uza.JPG

uzb.JPG

uzc.JPG

uzd.JPG
 
I work at Sound Performance, My car still running, so i'm using the shop drag car to fit and fab everything. Those are GT47 88mm, they are good for 1700hp each, they are not mounted and are just sitting in there. They are waaay too big to make fit under the stock hood. Like i said it will not be a real crazy setup 850-1200 crank hp.
By having everything done in the shop i'm hoping that the owner will want to try a 5.5L steel tundra motor in place of his 1400hp 2jz. That will be crazy!
 
beaut pics..... nice and big....

geez, you look to have plenty of room between the strut tower and the heads.... was the front end of the car modified (being a drag car and all) ???
 
The engine bay is all stock, that car has no body structure modifications. The engine sits low enough that there maybe room for a big screw blower on top :)

Drizt: These pictures are the same car. I'm using Larry's drag car to fit and fabricate everything before i pull my own motor out to swap in the v8. Once the manifolds are done, the heads are going to get cleaned up and lightly ported plus a full radius valve job as well as the biggest valves it can hold. My 37 dollar ebay short block is already being built.
 
hmmm, must be the difference between a LHD and a RHD car then.... well, it actually looks to sit very low compared to when i mock fitted a 1uz into my parts donor supra... are you using stock soarer mounts???

maybe i should look at making mine sit a little lower when i actually fit it.
 


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