Turbo Gains on 1UZ-FE!

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Desktop dyno is a soft program. This is not a good way to determine your hp. I would take your car to the dyno center and get the true rwhp.
 
svsgt1 said:
Honestly I don't know who the engine builder is. He is located in New Zealand and he apparently has built several 1UZ-FE engines for Saker Cars. If anyone is from that area and knows of a 1UZ-FE engine builder out there then it may be him.
There are plenty of engine builders here that use the 1UZFE. Thats why there are so many NZ'ers and Australians on this board. The motors are so cheap compared to anything else, like an LS1.
 
well that would explain all of the NZ and Australian people on this forum. I definietly agree that using a software program to determine an engines power is not the best way of doing things. The only way to tell is to get this thing dynoed. What ddoes a dyno session usually cost if you are just checking for the power and not actually tuning it?

If I do this turbo project then I will do my best to get it dynoed with and without the turbo. I am going to try to make the system pretty easily removable, that way I can take it off and load the program into the ECU to bring it back to its original configuration. It is going to be pretty easily removable anyway, I will just try to make it easier.

The other thing is, do I need to do any other engine upgrades to handle this sort of power (500hp at the crank)? Like do valve springs need to be upgraded or anything like that. I really didn't want to get into all of that for this project, that is why I'm trying to keep the boost and power to a reasonable minimum. Let me know if you guys thing the engine will need other upgrades or not.
 
Adam,

Do the dyno first. If you put the in the turbo, then the injectors, fuel pump, FPR and reprogram ecu will alter the N/A dyno result. Do it pre and post FI and they u will get the true result of gain.
 
Ok, Let me see how much something like that costs locally and I will try to get it done. I have two projects for this car once I get it back and that is the turbo system and a paddle shift system. I'm not sure which I will do first. They will both cost me about the same. I also would like to enjoy my car once I get it back before taking it out of commission by starting another project. If I can get the car dynoed for a reasonable price I will probablly do it.

And I will definietly keep you guys updated on the turbo project and the paddle shift project. The paddle shift is going to be freaking awesome as it will be a totally different from anything out there. I personally find the standard paddle shift system not that fun to drive, but I love the fact that you don't have to take your hands off the steering wheel. Even true paddle shift systems like BMW's SMG and Ferraris F1 system (ones that use an actual manual transmission with the controls operated by actuators, not ones with automatic transmissions that everyone else uses) are really not that fun. You loose too much feeling of driving the car. The system I am designing will give the best of both worlds. It will be totally awesome, but these projects are going to be 3-6 months away from beginning.
 
Dyno should not be more than $80. IMO, that is chump change compared to what you probably have invested and what adding a turbo will cost. It is defintely worth it!
 
yeah I didn't know it was that cheap. Hell, if I knew it was that cheap I would have done it as soon as I got the car. I will do it as soon as I get the car back from the US factory, which should hopefully be by the end of the year. Thanks!
 
svsgt1 said:
yeah I didn't know it was that cheap. Hell, if I knew it was that cheap I would have done it as soon as I got the car. I will do it as soon as I get the car back from the US factory, which should hopefully be by the end of the year. Thanks!
At my local shop, it'll cost $45/hr without any tuning. Also, I'm wondering how you got that weight on your V8. The weight of the SC300 & SC400 ranges from 3494 lbs.-3560 lbs. , which equals to 1607.24 kg-1637.6 kg unless you shaved it down. However, your project is very well respected.
 
stevechumo said:
At my local shop, it'll cost $45/hr without any tuning. Also, I'm wondering how you got that weight on your V8. The weight of the SC300 & SC400 ranges from 3494 lbs.-3560 lbs. , which equals to 1607.24 kg-1637.6 kg unless you shaved it down. However, your project is very well respected.

I don't know what happened to svsgt1, I was hoping he would get the dyno and come back and post more. The weight is for his Saker, not an SC300/400.

Check out pictures at his website:
http://www.adamstyles.com/car.htm

SV1%20-%20Red%20Race%20Car%20Front%20Low%20Corner%20Close%20NICE.jpg


2003-12%20-%20Ready%20for%20Shipping%20Engine%20Right.jpg
 
Hey guys, I am still here. I got my car back about 3-4 weeks ago. I have been commuting from FL to CA (about 5000 miles round trip) every Monday-Thursday with my computer job and working on a new album with my music job, so needless to say I haven't had much time to play with the car. The latest thing going on with the car is getting it preped for the race track as I have some race classes that I am attending in the next couple of weeks. (Trying to get my race license!!!)

Basically I have finished the design and parts sourcing for the paddle shift project but I have decided to finish up other things on the car (paint and some minor finishing touches that I would like) before spending any more money on it. Ultimately I would like to get another set of wheels with slicks too but that is going to wait a couple of months.

Maybe in the next 3 weeks I will get it dynoed to see how much HP it really has. I will definietly report back on that as soon as I get that done. But like many things that happen in this forum and the car world, they tend to take longer then one initially plans unfortunately. Oh, I will also be taking it to the drag strip (Tried twice and got rained out both times) just to see what it can do. Its not a drag car but it should still be fun to do. I can't wait for the road course in 4 weeks.
 
What's the benefit of the "spaghetti" headers?

The joint rom the headers to the exhaust proper looks a little kinked.

Still looks a fun toy.
 
Well from what I understand (maybe someone else in ere would know better) the only way to get equal length headers at the right length was to have them circle around like that. I'm not sure what the desired length is but I do know that there is no other way to fit them in the engine bay.

As for the kinked part, I believe you are referring to the section in the back, this is where the two sides of the exhaust cross over to provide smoothness and to quiet it down a little as there are no mufflers or cats. I can say that the thing sounds amazing. It is very mean sounding but not nasty sounding like a totally opened up American V8 can sound. When you are at full throttle it will definietly be heard.
 
Wow, I have a turbo in there. jk No I actually don't have any forced induction. I was looking into it for the future but it is not something that is going to be put on anytime soon as it is expensive. I was tossing around the idea between a supercharger or turbos. I think if I were going to do it I woudl go all out and just do a turbo setup as it is really the "better" way to go in terms of efficiency. The supercharger is nice just because it is a pretty simple thing to put on when compared to the turbo. Of course neither are simple to do. I want to enjoy the car a little bit before it goes back into the garage for more upgrades.

I'm thinking a twin turbo woudl be a nice setup to have on this car. But space requirements are going to be tight no matter what I do. I roots/screw type supercharger would probablly fit pretty easily. We'll see what I decide to do but it won't be for a while.
 
The "kink" I referred to is above and in front of the drive flange.

The join doesn't look too progressive, it's almost like it was cut at an angle and welded there.
 
Lex, there isn't a turbo but the air filter in that picture could make it look like it is hiding something. If I put a turbo there I think it would be very hard to plumb the exhaust pipes up there. When the engine is in the car there are a lot of chassis bars that would be in its way. The best spot for turbos on this car would be at the first joint in the headers where it comes from 4 to 1. This would be mounted far enough from most items in the engine bay and shoudl provide enough room.

Zuffen,
The kink you reffer to only looks that way in the pictures. Go to my website and you'll be able to see that section of the exhuast from the back and will give you a much better idea of what it is doing. Its actually a pretty big radius bend and probablly isn't affecting much. I'm sure there are better designs but I don't think this is far from it. The reason that that angular piece looks like it was welded on in place because it probablly was done while the engien was sitting in the car. It is very tight in there and I couldn't imagine any other way to make a custom exhuast for this car without having it sitting in there. There is a chassis bar that it is clearing also as that bar runs from side to side over teh top of the transmission but you can't see that unless you see the engine in the car.

Thanks,
Adam
 
if yoy do go twin turbo's, you'd be able to get rid off the spaghetti and run a decent turbo manifold and use less space than what you already have there....

very nice setup though.... id hate to imagine the cost of a new transaxle should that one break....
 
R-Jay, you are right, if I went with turbos I could get rid of the headers that are currently there and get more space. This is definietly a consideration. But I already spent a good amount of money on getting these custom headers and exhaust made and ceramic coated so my first instinct would be to use the existing headers if I go wit turbos. It woud lbe better to get new custom headers made for a turbo setup as space is a real concern. But in reality the turbo project is pretty far in the future as the car is crazy fast already and I'm really going for reliability right now. I'm working on getting my race license and it is better to have a car that works consistently for the race schools (and driving on the street) then to have one that is stupid fast but doesn't work. (Granted the idea of stupid fast is one I like!)

Onyx, I don't know how to describe how the car sounds but it if AWESOME. It is very mean sounding and has a very nice tone to it. I will try to fix the problems with the videos I have on my website but unfortunately they were done with a still camera so the video quality is not the best, but still pretty good. (The sound is definitley not that good on the videos) I have a race class someing up in a couple of weeks and I'm thinking about getting my buddies digital video camera and go to town with it. I also could record the engine sound with professional audio equipment and I already have the studio and equipment for it but its not everyday that I have it setup in my garage. ha ha ha I have the videos on my laptop so if someone has some extra webspace I would be more then happy to upload them for you guys.

Thanks,
Adam
 


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