Toyota Stout Build (1uz)

PARTS FOR SALE: Limited availability on EGR Delete Kits, Torque Converters and Supercharger Brackets. Email for info: [email protected]

Street_Kleaver

New Member
Messages
4
Location
Singleton
Hello.

I'm Ben.


I've been building and cars since 2002.


Just moved to the Hunter Valley near Newcastle after pretty much living all over QLD since forever.

Here's my Stout. Pretty basic build. Nothing fancy, just function able, reliable and robust.

Here is Stout #1 (RK43)
Sold that one. Was too pretty and expensive just to use the cab.



Stout #2 (RK43) got wrecked for parts.
Stout #3 (RK101) is just a cab, which will be introduced later on in this adventure.

2/3rds of a spare Lite-Stout Chassis. I didn't need the rails. Started this in February 2013.



* Plan is to build this somewhat old-school ways. Using parts off various different models and making shit work instead of going out and buying all the off the shelf cheat parts that are on offer. Takes a little more time, but is cheaper.

Z/Step Notch. 40mm. Keeping the OG suspension and upgraded the steering to Power Steer. Keeping all the old VIN numbers. At the time I was building this to suit QLD. So keeping a coil sprung type front end with Original VIN numbers is a wise choice, and could be swapped back if any drama with the POPO. Either way. It works well, all rare parts are replaced with more common Hilux RN30 parts.



A billion holes drilled and plug welded internal Fish plates.



Done



78' Cressida Power Steering conversion (Never been done before. Haha)
RN30/40 Hilux Disc Brakes. Spindles (sorta) bolt straight on.





Lower Control arm, Spring cup cut out, sectioned 15mm so the bag sits lower.





Little Video of the front end all working well.

http://youtu.be/up1yQEf_gyU

Stout Style side tub skins. Plasma made short work of that. Stout wheels base is 150mm Longer than Lite Stout. So the wheel base will be extended.

Designed my own rails. Cut them out by hand with my plasma via MDF wooden template. Then used a builders laser plane to make the rear section parallel and square with the rest of the frame. There are vertical gussets every 300mm or so.





Welded. All the Cross bracing is to keep it parallel since I don't have a frame table to do it on. I used a laser plane line and level (Chippies will know what this is) to keep check on everything being square. Skill learnt when I used to lay stormwater pipelines etc with excavators.





Fish plates at the join. Because I'm industrial.



Complete



2nd Hand 4-link that only ever got installed, but not used. Because I'm a tight ass. And buying new stuff is expensive.
Narrower RN40 Diff and 4 link is done. Now on to the cross members and rear air suspension and shocks





Bag brackets. Once again. Nothing fancy. Will all be under a wooden styleside floor.



Roller in its new home in NSW. No it is not Alf's rape dungeon.



Stout #3 New Cab.



Spent a few hours dollying some dings out of the guards, And a cliche "Mockup" photo everyone loves.








Here's the jig for a 30mm Body drop. Just raising the floor and playing with the rear cab mount. Will keep the doors off the ground about 10mm-ish.

The Body drop "out-riggers" was a after thought. Bolt it on, cut away the floor until the pinch or sills sit on the out riggers.



Maybe a 75-80mm chop.. Thats next to get the Brain around. I've tracked down a laminated windscreen at the local glass place. They said they'd cut it with their water jet cutter and a combination by hand. Fingers crossed they don't mess it up.
 

Street_Kleaver

New Member
Messages
4
Location
Singleton
Just scored a 1uz + auto, loom, tailshaft, radiator, all accessories bolted to the engine, full soarer exhaust and other bits.

I think I'll be needing a mid sump from a crown in order for the sump to sit in between the cross member and drag link. I basically need 200mm of room forward from the rear of the engine to clear the drag link. I think the Soarer is only 120 from the bell housing mounting face to the sump pan.
 

Street_Kleaver

New Member
Messages
4
Location
Singleton
Looks like a 1uz has just landed into my shed.



It's going to be a tight fit. Mainly where the steering box is mounted. Might have to build custom headers to clear it or maybe find a set of crown headers.
 

Zuffen

Super Moderator
Staff member
Messages
5,462
Location
Sydney, Australia
Be aware a Crown (mid) sump doesn't have any provision for the dipstick in the sump.

The Crown dipstick feeds in through the NS cam cover.

The green cab looks in good shape with minimal rust.

I used to drive a Stout as a milk truck in the early 70's, yeah I'm old!

Do you have an NSW Engineer yet? Athol, who is up your way is good.

I assume it will be registered as a Light Stout with and engine and body swap?
 

Street_Kleaver

New Member
Messages
4
Location
Singleton
Be aware a Crown (mid) sump doesn't have any provision for the dipstick in the sump.

The Crown dipstick feeds in through the NS cam cover.

The green cab looks in good shape with minimal rust.

I used to drive a Stout as a milk truck in the early 70's, yeah I'm old!

Do you have an NSW Engineer yet? Athol, who is up your way is good.

I assume it will be registered as a Light Stout with and engine and body swap?

Yeah I know the Mid sump uses a internal dip stick. I'd just "make" one work from the outside. Drill tap holes etc top half.

The cabs are identical to lite stouts so basically it wouldn't really be a re-body, just a better body. Haha. They came with rust from factory I think. ;)

It's going to be a really tight fit past the rear mount steering box with the headers. I think I'll be making my own headers to snake round it and clear it all.
 
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