This month’s progress

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Frank Clark

Member
Messages
49
Location
Fairview, TX
Got the... dry sump pump mounted, pump drive made (from a hunk of billet), accessory drive worked out, valve covers welded up, vacuum relief mounted, a spot ready for case vacuum gauge and other odds and ends. Now it’s time to have a go at casting that pan that I’ve been putting off.


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Two questions;

1. are you running air-conditioning? I thought it was a race car?
2. what are you driving where the power steering pump normally resides.

The dry sump pump is a long way from the crank. Could it have been mounted under the engine?

Looks good. Just a bit jealous!
 
Well done Frank, but I'd watch out for belt oscillation with that long dry sump drive belt. Are you going to run it on an engine dyno prior to putting it in the car?
 
Agree it's a long belt on the pump. I am going to put a belt guide on the pump side and see how it goes. Turns out there is room to shorten it a bit, but not a lot. It's been in the car wet sump and is going back in like this (after I cast an oil pan). I can get a "stiffer" belt if needed.

There is no room to mount it lower. It's as low as it can go now (otherwise the lines would be below the frame).

Where the P/S pump normally resides is just an idler (standard 1UZ part), mounted on a standoff that is welded to the oil pump bracket.

The fan pump was replaced with the 2UZ idler.

Yes, it's a race car. Yes, this is TEXAS. Yes, I'm a wimp!

Actually I am planning on registering the car before the end of the year so I can put some street miles on it. Just need some shake down miles to get everything 100%. Was planning on running the Dallas Wanna-go-fast 1/2 mile in Nov, but after last weekend's accident at their NOLA event I see registration is "delayed".

The racing is 118 miles of West Texas highway in Spring. Temps can be anywhere from 45 to 105. [That is 190km at 7c to 40c for those of you that use a measurement system that actually makes sense]. With an SFI-5 suit and limited air, it can be miserable. We also tend to pre-run the course at legal speeds the week before and there are community/charity events around town that week (The police officers let us slide as long as we are not doing anything stupid).
 
Looking good.

I like the bracket you made to replace the powersteer pump. Lexus does one factory on the 2006 GS430 with the 3uz which runs the electric steering rack. I can find a reference to the idler bearing but not the bracket it goes onto. Ive wondered about finding one for some of the odd jobs I do.

I get a bit of stuff from the US and have started using US measurements for some of my wiring. Man my mates look at me weird when I ask for 1/4 sleeving.
 
If you're after a cast sump "Sudsy" on this Forum makes them.

I have one of his front bowl sumps in my car. Not sure if he makes other versions.

You could try sending him a PM as it could save you a lot of work and angst.

If you have trouble contacting him I can do it through another Forum.
 
Thanks, but I've already made the casting pattern. Because of the size I need to use resin bonded or sodium silicate bonded sand - If I used oil bonded sand the depth needed for this to hold together would be too heavy for me to manage. As it stands, the resin bonded mold is going to probably be 200 pounds. So I've been testing the different options on some small samples in hopes of getting the oil pan right the first try. But making the pattern was the most time consuming part and it's done. My pattern allows for turbo drain back into the pan, 5 evac stages and clears my under the motor exhaust cross over. Unlikely someone else's design would work for my setup.
 
I'm glad you were building the pattern and not me as my patience and skill-set would have run out after the first day!

Good luck with it and I hope it comes out right first try.

Keep us posted.
 
Oil pan came out pretty good. I'm happy with it. Does have one thin spot and one cold shunt. Both very small (smaller than a dime) and will be easy to touch up with TIG. The casting came out rough (surface finish), but I expected that as I poured hot since I was worried about it being such a large/thin part. I planned on smoothing the inside anyway, and will probably do the same on the outside.

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Two part resin/sand mold. Weighs over 200lbs.

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Ready to pour (no I did not pour it in my garage)

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Melt ready to go (wire is the thermocouple for monitoring temperature)

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Mold opened. Notice how much the sand was burnt. This is a combination of pouring hot and having probably a bit too much resin in the sand. In any case, this results in a rougher surface finish on the casting.

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Outside (bottom). With runners/sprue/vents still attached.

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Inside. Pattern in the background.

Size came out perfect. Aluminum shrinks, so the pattern has to be sized appropriately. Can't say I have enough experience, but others are a wealth of knowledge - I just leaned on theirs and all came out good.

This pan allows for 5 evac lines (passenger side) and 1 turbo drain back line (drivers side). Just clears the rod bolts. I'll machine the pan for AN10 ORB fittings.
 
Garage situation sucks.... We have a 1000sqft garage. The only 'open' space is the Wife's and she has made it clear I have to leave her spot alone! My son and I have two race cars in the garage + equipment and two race cars in the trailer. Have to play musical cars and rotate them between the garage and trailer.

But, I'm happy to do the casting outside. We already burned the house down once.
 
Frank, I just read about your exploits at the Texas Mile on GT40s.com. Well done! Be careful boosting the UZ above 20psi as a number of us have had the heads lift above that magic number. There are dedicated, built drag race engines that have gone higher, but I don't know if many of us have been successful going higher with stock blocks. Maybe Gloverman can chip in with some of his experiences.
 


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