The Fish

spf_lexus

New Member
Kc- looks great man, 20+ PSI must really pull stumps... my measly 6psi wont even knock at your back door lol. I just got all my glitches on my setup cleared up... looking at your belt, the reason your was 104''? and mine needed a 113'' was your pulley is mounted inward and my pulley was mounted top right.

just curious, how many MM does your belt have above the very top idler pulley? I mean w/ tensioner fully open. I got such a close match I open the tnesioner ALL the way open and its 2mm above... barely fits but very snug.
 

kc95sc400

New Member
Kc- looks great man, 20+ PSI must really pull stumps... my measly 6psi wont even knock at your back door lol. I just got all my glitches on my setup cleared up... looking at your belt, the reason your was 104''? and mine needed a 113'' was your pulley is mounted inward and my pulley was mounted top right.

just curious, how many MM does your belt have above the very top idler pulley? I mean w/ tensioner fully open. I got such a close match I open the tnesioner ALL the way open and its 2mm above... barely fits but very snug.
I'm not sure where you're talking about on the belt....?

I only have 10-12 psi BTW. 20 would be nice though!

KC
 

spf_lexus

New Member
About 26 psi. I'm looking for some wider wheels to put wider tires on. I'm thinking 255's. I'm currently on 225 BFG's.

I went back to the 1/8 this past Thursday and ran an 8.79, pretty good improvement. I really think I would do MUCH better with some more rubber in the back, I can't launch anywhere near my 2800 rpm stall without massive spinning.



I dont know if that was your actual boost but i went off the post, and i asked you what size belt you ran a while back and it was more than 6'' smaller! its all relative, mines just mounted farther away than urs.
 

-Nemesis-

New Member
Guys, what the heck is the trick to keep vac lines from coming off and leaking?

I've replaced about all of them, and I tested for leaks and had none. Over the past few days, I've noticed I have less boost, so I re leak tested and I have like 5 leaks!

Its ridiculous!

I have a few things in mind to try, but could use suggestions.

KC

Out of curiosity, how did you do the leak tests?
 

-Nemesis-

New Member
Oh okay, didn't the air just run off through the engine? I'll have to try something similar, i'm getting 2psi less than SPF with a pulley that's .2" smaller...
 

kc95sc400

New Member
Oh okay, didn't the air just run off through the engine? I'll have to try something similar, i'm getting 2psi less than SPF with a pulley that's .2" smaller...
It won't be airtight, it will leak down a bit regardless. But you should be able to get it to hold a couple of psi for a little bit. When you lose the pressure, put more in.

Here's a pic of what I did...

Do you have the EGR blocked? My EGR valve was my biggest boost leak, couldn't even make boost untill I removed the valve and blocked the ports.

KC
 

spf_lexus

New Member
I agree, I took mine off before the install so I could be a possibility? boosting the crankcase is an easy way to force a new engine. It will exploit every little imperfection in seasoned gaskets and actually start leaks. It also can foam the engine oil in the crankcase in extreme cases.

Currently I'm dealing with pulley offsets ever since i bolted my unit back on. I shredded 2 belts now, this weekend I plan for a final adjustment (117.7'' belts arn't cheap at $50).

Kc- Nice battery relocation, I did the exact same thing. Took stock terminal leads and used a solid nickel distribution block, worked great and i in the exact same location hehe.
 
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-Nemesis-

New Member
My MAF adapter is dodgey looking at best so I just pulled it out to seal it up better, found oil in the intake piping (fresh engine oil.)

I wonder if that's from the few days of driving before I plugged the TB pcv pipe, or is there another cause...
 

spf_lexus

New Member
probably just pcv residue.... racers use catch cans because it will eventually fill up with oil, sludge. Same is true in the intake on a boosted engine, lower rpm tend to cause the emissions in crankcase more than high rpm called blowby. Re-route the pcv away from the intake altogether. If you don't run a catch can you might experience some fumey smells but it's livable.
 

kc95sc400

New Member
Hey guys. I know it's been a million years since I've udpated this thread but I have been busy as of late and thought I'd share.

I ran a 7.703 not to long ago, 1/8 mile. Should (maybe) get me high 11's in the 1/4. Video is on youtube.

Haven't been able to run the 1/4 yet. Weather has not been good and the tracks have been closed. I might be able to run this Saturday if the weather holds, fingers crossed.

The list, sorry if I've mentioned some of this already:

Rebuilt the trans with Raybestos blue plates and an "upgraded" second gear sprag.

Had the tq converter re-stalled to about 3200rpm. Added a bigger (much) trans cooler.

Intercooler has been gone for awhile, using WM injection.

Put in some racing seats.

Deleted the ABS / Trac system.

Replaced both front and rear rotors. All were under spec after the last cutting.

Replaced front and rear pads with EBC "redstuff" pads.

Bought and installed Megan Racing poly motor and trans mounts.

Bought and installed a Cartech / Bell Engineering FMU. I think I've really been pushing the 315 injectors. Figured this will give me a much better safety margin without spending a ton of money to buy bigger injectors. I have it set for about a 2 to 1 gain with an "on set" pressure of about 60psi.

Bought and installing tomorrow, Technafit SS braided brake lines. My rubber hoses have about had it and upgrading to SS is actually cheaper than replacing with OEM, go figure.

Have just recently purchased a ton of stuff to rebuild / update my suspension. Front and rear sway bar links. Front and rear Prothane sway bar bushings. Front and rear Prothane control arm bushings. And, Megan Racing adjustable traction rods. I've been meaning to do the CA bushings for awhile now, been putting it off. Figured I'd go ahead and do everything while I was at it. I might still get some steering rack bushings.

I could use some advice on what to do with the adjustment on the traction arms. I sort of understand the theory on having them adjustable just not sure how to use them.

Purchased solid diff and subframe collars from here: http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?17 (bottom of page). Not sure how these work yet but I have some slop in the rear end somewhere and I figured for $50 I can't go wrong.

I think thats about it. I'll update with some new 1/4 times if the track is open.

Khris
 
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-Nemesis-

New Member
Sounds good mate!

I've been thinking of trying mine without the FMIC, but never got round to it. So it runs better without yeah? I'm hitting about 10psi through it at the moment and holding good ratio's (A/F) on lpg... Though I'd happily trade some power from the 5-6000rpm mark to pick up more boost down low, if that happens without the IC?
 
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