The Fish

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
havent heard much about your car lately kc. hows it going did u sort all your probs out yet.
as for my project buying a house is on the top of my list of things to do atm so its kind of on hold till i get that sorted. still slowly collecting bits though.
 
that would explain it then,im glad i asked now as ive been looking around at normal vortechs.Is there something in the model codes that will say that its a CCW??

Capa list it as an extra $312au for it to be CCW just must change the impeller,not as bad as it seams
 
1uzvl said:
that would explain it then,im glad i asked now as ive been looking around at normal vortechs.Is there something in the model codes that will say that its a CCW??

Capa list it as an extra $312au for it to be CCW just must change the impeller,not as bad as it seams
Click to expand...


Well im looking at them here.
http://superchargersonline.com/headunits.asp

They just list certain ones (V1 or V2 I am looking at) as CCW. So just make sure its CCW, if not, your going to have a hell of a time lol :yup:
 
Sorry for the lack of updates.

I am still having my fair share of issues. LOL.

I had been going very lean with boost. I put in a Walbro, replaced the FPR, and replaced the engine coolant temp sensor. Better, but still had the problem.

I also tried a different MAF sensor, no change.

I figured out that the block off gasket I made for my EGR burnt through, fixed that but still lean.

The problem I had with going rich while idling and cruising was due to my lack of an O2 sensor on bank 1. I jumped the oxy1 and oxy2 terminals in the data link connector under the hood. Basically, the bank 2 O2 sensor is sending info to the ECU for both banks.

Just this past weekend, discovered that my EGR block off was STILL causing me problems. I also discovered that the injector orings that seal the injector to the manifold were leaking pressure. I replaced all the orings and decided to install the 315's I've had laying around for a while now.

I now have plenty of fuel with boost, up to 6psi anyway. My idle and cruising AFR are kind of all over the place now for some reason though. Tried with two different MAF's and also tried running in speed density. If I unplug the MAF and my fuel computer, my idle and AFR are rock solid at idle. The idle AFR has always been a bit weird while running in speed density and I think I have two bad MAF's. I'm going to use a smoke machine tomorrow at work to double check for vac leaks. If I can't find anything, I'll assume that I do indeed have two bad MAF's and I'll attempt to tune the MAFTPro running in speed density.

Some links for more info.
http://clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=312268&page=14 start on post 208 for some new info and some pics.

http://clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=338293 I suggest reading this thread through, there is some good info there. Also some internal MAF pics.

KC

lexplay said:
havent heard much about your car lately kc. hows it going did u sort all your probs out yet.
as for my project buying a house is on the top of my list of things to do atm so its kind of on hold till i get that sorted. still slowly collecting bits though.
Click to expand...
 
Hey guys, sorry for the lack of updates.

I found no leaks anywhere using a smoke machine.

There was a firmware update for the MAFTPro that solved all my speed density idling issues.

The car is currently running fantastic! I can hit 10-12 psi of boost with a good WOT run. Plenty of fuel.

And....I went to the dyno today. See next posts.
 
Went to the dyno today. The results are a tad lower than I expected, but I'm happy with them.

I know I could get better numbers if I put the intercooler back in. Also, the tuner guy yelled at me about my supercharger inlet pipe, said I would gain easy hp with a larger diameter pipe.

Also, running a bit richer than I would have liked. The AFR reading on the graph is taken DOWNSTREAM of the cat converter.

I also think I would have made more power if he would have started WOT at a lower RPM, more time to build boost. The highest boost I had was 9.5psi, I should be able to hit 11-12 with a good WOT run. The auto was also in NORM mode.

The guy running the dyno had a bit of trouble figuring out my car, it's a Mustang shop. He had trouble keeping it in third, would downshift to second, so I disconnected the kickdown cable. Also, he had trouble getting a good RPM signal. I ended up removing the driver side spark plug wire cover so he could clamp onto one of the wires coming off of the distributor.

I have about 16 runs, but most of them are garbage since there is no RPM reading. He emailed me all the runs and linked me to dynojets website so I could download the program to view them, pretty cool.

I didn't have the car dynoed before, but from all the info I've found, stock pre vvti SC400's dyno around 170rwhp, so I have in theory added 140hp! Can't argue with that!
 
The real story hear is what appears to be my hp/tq curve. Like I said, I have 16 runs and the dynojet program to veiw, so I made this...

This is a graph of 3 runs on top of each other. Two of them are from when I was losing the RPM signal up high. But, they are a good indication of what my curve SHOULD look like.

I am convinced that a WOT pull starting from a lower RPM would result in higher max numbers.

I took some video, will post tomorrow.

KC
 
Great!!! Congratulations! Another lextremist. 310 rwhp is a lot of hp to talk about. I don't remember exactly, but I think a 2JZGTE needs to make around 13-14 psi to make this number. Very impressive at 9-10 psi. If you could get 12 psi on the dyno, the number will be smiling.
 
Very nice! I am hoping to get numbers similar when I get mine on the dyno. My goal is around 350 on stock internals and then I will do a new motor for crazy boost. So are you bringing it to Texas?
 
stevechumo said:
Great!!! Congratulations! Another lextremist. 310 rwhp is a lot of hp to talk about. I don't remember exactly, but I think a 2JZGTE needs to make around 13-14 psi to make this number. Very impressive at 9-10 psi. If you could get 12 psi on the dyno, the number will be smiling.
Click to expand...

Thanks,

I really think I can get a bit more with a few tweaks here and there.

It looks like I have one hell of a flat torque curve as well. Next time I go to the dyno, I'll be sure to get some runs that start off a bit lower. From 3000rpm at least, that's were all my torque is, judging by the butt dyno anyway.

KC
 
scotturnot said:
Very nice! I am hoping to get numbers similar when I get mine on the dyno. My goal is around 350 on stock internals and then I will do a new motor for crazy boost. So are you bringing it to Texas?
Click to expand...

Thanks Scott.

What are you pushing now? Boost? HP? You going to up your crank pulley size?

I would love to go to Texas, but, it's not really looking financially possible for me at the moment.

KC
 
Went to the dyno again yesterday, mixed results. Since last week I put the intercooler back in and I fixed my leaky bypass valve.

I made a few more horsepower and a tad less tourqe. For some reason I couldn't manage to get much over 7psi. Some of it's probably from the rather large intercooler, but the dyno operator said that the waviness in my boost reading could be from belt slippage. See the next few posts for my fix.

On the very much plus side, I'm making the samish power that I was with less boost. If I can figure out why my boost is a bit down, and can see a few more psi, my hp/tq numbers should climb accordingly. I really like the tourqe curve, it doesn't really ever seem to quit.

Last week, my intake temps had reached 160 degrees plus, yesterday (about the same temp ambient) the highest I had was 98 degrees. The car is driving very well with the intercooler in place, I think I'll keep it.

Link to dyno vid. http://youtube.com/watch?v=LJAxstJ_Sao

Removing the intake pipe and filter did nothing for my power levels, actually made less boost. The dyno operator, the head tuning guy, my freind from work, and I were all scratching are heads. I guess my intake setup is flowing plenty of air for the supercharger.

All and all I'm happy with my numbers. Hopefully with my drivebelt a bit tighter, I'll make more boost. My car handles the dyno like a champ, no problems. My AFR's were staying at 12.5 to 1 with boost (were I have it set to).

KC
 
Nice work KC. I am proud of you and I am proud that "The Fish" is in your car. Took little work, but you manage to solve most of the issues. Official Lextremer for life......
 
My clever (I think anyway) belt tension fix.

First pic. This is a pic for reference. This is where my belt tensioner was sitting. Take note of the little arrows on the main body of the tensioner and on the pulley side of the tensioner. There is about 2-3 inches of belt deflection on the longest run, which happens to be between the top idler pulley and the supercharger pulley. You can also see the protrusion that my homemade manual tensioner will use.

Second pic. I took an L-bracket and drilled out one of the pre existing holes so that it would fit onto the drive belt tensioner stud seen in the first pic. I also drilled and tapped a hole to fit a 12mm bolt.

Third pic. I threaded a 12mm nut onto a 12mm bolt and then installed the bolt onto the bracket.

Fourth pic. Bolted the bracket to the tensioner. Tension is adjusted by turning the bolt that is installed into the bracket, the nut is used to lock it into place once the desired tension is reached. Note the new position of the arrows. Belt deflection is now about half an inch. The belt is MUCH tighter.

This is my first "prototype". I need to visit the Home Depot and pick up a few more L-brackets so I can make a few improvements. I'll let you guys know if I make any more boost.

KC
 

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