Lextreme II
Just call me "Lex"
- Messages
- 12,033
- Location
- City of Halos
Awesome... you need an idler pulley....
The Fish
- Thread starter kc95sc400
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Yes, but is wasn't me if that make you feel any better.
Yup. You going to file the inside edge or is it already smooth?
I don't think you would really be able to see what needs to be done with pics. When you remove the hydo fan, intall the LS400 bracket, and hold the fish bracket to the engine, you will see what needs to be done.
The fish bracket won't even sit on the engine untill you mod the body.
As far as pics go. I have been using a service through my IP that they are about to stop offering so I will need to explore other options for pics. I can no longer upload pics to them and all the pics I have up now are going to dissapear soon. I hate earthlink, they suck.
KC
Yes, the battery tray is removed.
If I'm not mistaken by looking at the pics of his car, George has a Soarer. Maybe the body is a little different?
I don't know. But on mine, the fish bracket wouldn't even sit in place before modding the body.
KC
I was making 3psi with moderate throttle in third gear (3500ish) on the highway.:veryhappy:
I was putting pressure into the crank case before I added the passenger side PCV. There is always normal blow by pressure in the crank case, this is the reason for the PCV to begin with. And also why one should NEVER plug off the PCV hoses. I tried this at one point and the seal on the back of the passenger side head blew out. I managed to pop it back in and haven't had anymore problems with it.
KC
kc95sc400
New Member
- Messages
- 524
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
kc95sc400
New Member
- Messages
- 524
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Some pics. As soon as I'm done posting this, I'm going to bolt it to the motor for, hopefully, the final time.
KC
KC
Lextreme II
Just call me "Lex"
- Messages
- 12,033
- Location
- City of Halos
WoW... the black color really makes it look way better.
Boosted2.0
New Member
- Messages
- 91
- Location
- Houston, TX
Looking good.
Is the pulley on that SC wadded up from a pair of channel locks or is it just me?
Is the pulley on that SC wadded up from a pair of channel locks or is it just me?
kc95sc400
New Member
- Messages
- 524
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Yes, but is wasn't me if that make you feel any better.
kc95sc400
New Member
- Messages
- 524
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Update
Guys,
I'm sorry I haven't updated lately, I just haven't had the time to update both here and CL.
Go here for an update and installed pics. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=312268&page=8
I got it finished last night. I do still have a few things that I need to clean up and fix. So far no problems. No belt slippage up to 3200 rpm (haven't gone over 3200 rpm yet) with a 2.4inch pulley. Haven't made any boost yet, I have the release valve all the way open. I plan on installing the MAF T Pro tomorrow night. I will update on the install and when I actually make some boost.
KC
Guys,
I'm sorry I haven't updated lately, I just haven't had the time to update both here and CL.
Go here for an update and installed pics. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=312268&page=8
I got it finished last night. I do still have a few things that I need to clean up and fix. So far no problems. No belt slippage up to 3200 rpm (haven't gone over 3200 rpm yet) with a 2.4inch pulley. Haven't made any boost yet, I have the release valve all the way open. I plan on installing the MAF T Pro tomorrow night. I will update on the install and when I actually make some boost.
KC
Boosted2.0
New Member
- Messages
- 91
- Location
- Houston, TX
Yup. You going to file the inside edge or is it already smooth?
Attachments
Boosted2.0
New Member
- Messages
- 91
- Location
- Houston, TX
Lookign good. BTW some standalones and piggybacks have fan control built in -The MAF T Pro might have it as well.
On the bypass valve - run a hardline most of the way to it - its pretty far from the intake and if you use vacuum line that far you will get some delay.
On the bypass valve - run a hardline most of the way to it - its pretty far from the intake and if you use vacuum line that far you will get some delay.
Thermactor
Member
- Messages
- 541
- Location
- San Diego
Good, I was getting heartburn worrying about you having done that.
kc95sc400
New Member
- Messages
- 524
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Updates
My wife and kids have been out of town for the last few days so I've been working on my car, cleaning things up, installing the Camry e-fans and installing the MAFTPro. Luckily, my wife's brother left his Jeep for me to drive. Still have not boosted, that will come later today!
I drove it around a few days after the initial install w/o boost just to make sure I didn't have any leaks or other issues. I figured out that I did have a belt alignment problem. The belt looked fine, but there was belt dust everywhere. I shimmed the V-9 out a bit and hopefully it’s fixed. It's definitely better watching it at idle, although I may still need a bit more shim.
I installed the Camry e-fans. The setup on the Camry has two single fans and the Camry radiator is very very close to the same size as the one in the SC400. I had to trim them a bit so that the coolant reservoir would fit in its place. On the passenger side, there is about 3 inches of radiator not covered by the shrouds, not a big deal. The fans would fit perfectly without mod if I had relocated the reservoir. I thought about relocating it, but space is tight as it is. So I trimmed them, made some brackets to connect the two fans so they are now one unit and installed them. Only one bolt hole lined up so I made some brackets to reach the other holes on the radiator. It looks very clean and stock.
For fan power, I used the wires that were going to the hydro fan to control a relay. The fans themselves are getting power from the battery (my junction block) with an inline fuse and they are grounded to the fish bracket. The power and ground wires that were going to the hydro fan are from the fan ECU. The fan ECU sends an on / off signal like I hoped, and not pulse width modulation. So, it works exactly like stock only difference being there are two e-fans instead of one hydro fan.
Just got done installing the MAFTPro today and putting my interior back together. As of this post, I haven't started the car yet to see if it works. I have it set up to run on the speed density setup with a GM 3bar Map sensor. Assuming the car starts and runs, I will be boosting later today. FINALLY!
Well, I'll update later. BTW, I won't be able to take pics or video until tomorrow when my wife comes home with the camera.
KC
My wife and kids have been out of town for the last few days so I've been working on my car, cleaning things up, installing the Camry e-fans and installing the MAFTPro. Luckily, my wife's brother left his Jeep for me to drive. Still have not boosted, that will come later today!
I drove it around a few days after the initial install w/o boost just to make sure I didn't have any leaks or other issues. I figured out that I did have a belt alignment problem. The belt looked fine, but there was belt dust everywhere. I shimmed the V-9 out a bit and hopefully it’s fixed. It's definitely better watching it at idle, although I may still need a bit more shim.
I installed the Camry e-fans. The setup on the Camry has two single fans and the Camry radiator is very very close to the same size as the one in the SC400. I had to trim them a bit so that the coolant reservoir would fit in its place. On the passenger side, there is about 3 inches of radiator not covered by the shrouds, not a big deal. The fans would fit perfectly without mod if I had relocated the reservoir. I thought about relocating it, but space is tight as it is. So I trimmed them, made some brackets to connect the two fans so they are now one unit and installed them. Only one bolt hole lined up so I made some brackets to reach the other holes on the radiator. It looks very clean and stock.
For fan power, I used the wires that were going to the hydro fan to control a relay. The fans themselves are getting power from the battery (my junction block) with an inline fuse and they are grounded to the fish bracket. The power and ground wires that were going to the hydro fan are from the fan ECU. The fan ECU sends an on / off signal like I hoped, and not pulse width modulation. So, it works exactly like stock only difference being there are two e-fans instead of one hydro fan.
Just got done installing the MAFTPro today and putting my interior back together. As of this post, I haven't started the car yet to see if it works. I have it set up to run on the speed density setup with a GM 3bar Map sensor. Assuming the car starts and runs, I will be boosting later today. FINALLY!
Well, I'll update later. BTW, I won't be able to take pics or video until tomorrow when my wife comes home with the camera.
KC
Blizzy
New Member
- Messages
- 91
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
That all sounds awesome. I am anxious to see the photos of the fan install. I am also lloking forward to hearing how it was driving in boost. That speed density system is going to totally kick ass.
RedPhoenix
New Member
- Messages
- 505
- Location
- Palm Harbor, FL
Can you snap some pics of how you had to mod the fish bracket to fit in the engine bay of the SC?
kc95sc400
New Member
- Messages
- 524
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
I don't think you would really be able to see what needs to be done with pics. When you remove the hydo fan, intall the LS400 bracket, and hold the fish bracket to the engine, you will see what needs to be done.
The fish bracket won't even sit on the engine untill you mod the body.
As far as pics go. I have been using a service through my IP that they are about to stop offering so I will need to explore other options for pics. I can no longer upload pics to them and all the pics I have up now are going to dissapear soon. I hate earthlink, they suck.
KC
Lextreme II
Just call me "Lex"
- Messages
- 12,033
- Location
- City of Halos
KC,
How much mod to the body you need to do? George fron Australia didnt have to do that. I wonder why. Did you remove the battery tray too?
How much mod to the body you need to do? George fron Australia didnt have to do that. I wonder why. Did you remove the battery tray too?
kc95sc400
New Member
- Messages
- 524
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Guys,
Ok, I've been slacking on updates and such. No I haven't dissappeared or blown my engine.
I had been having problems making boost. In my on going effort to find the problem, I have fixed a few issues and created a few issues. FYI, don't EVER pinch both PCV lines and drive the car, not even for a short run. You'll regret it if you do.
Anyway, a couple of things I figured out. My EGR vavle was leaking in like 3 different places under pressure. I used a coke can (for now) to make a gasket to block off the ports.
I intalled a PCV valve in the passenger side line that goes from the throttle body to the valve cover.
The sealer on top of my MAF sensor was failing, so I took off the top of it, cleaned it up, and resealed it. The stupid thing was leaking very badly and under pressure, it looked like the top might pop off at any second.
Most of my aged vac lines would either leak or pop off under pressure, I have replaced a few of them and I am still working on replacing the rest. I have been using zip ties on the ends of all lines to help secure them.
Well, after doing all of that, I have been consistently seeing 3psi at around 3500 to 4000 rpm with moderate throttle opening. I haven't pushed it yet cause my tune is still a bit funky.
Over this weekend I plan on replacing the rest of my vac lines. Also, I am finally going to convert to speed density via the MAFTPro. TurboBob over at Full Throttle http://www.fullthrottletech.com/index.php has been very helpful in making the speed density thing possible for the Lexus **400. The only problem with it now is that the car will stall when the wheel is turned because of the power steering pump vac switch. Currently, the vac line to the MAP sensor is sharing the same intake source as one of the lines for the power steering pump vac switch, I am going to move one or the other to see if it helps. If not, I am confident that TurboBob will be able to fix the issue with some more programing. For now, I will likely just plug the line for the pump switch.
After I get rid of the MAF and replace the rest of my vac lines, I will do an intake leak test to double check everything. Next will be some tuning, then I'll let her rip and see what it will do.
KC
Ok, I've been slacking on updates and such. No I haven't dissappeared or blown my engine.
I had been having problems making boost. In my on going effort to find the problem, I have fixed a few issues and created a few issues. FYI, don't EVER pinch both PCV lines and drive the car, not even for a short run. You'll regret it if you do.
Anyway, a couple of things I figured out. My EGR vavle was leaking in like 3 different places under pressure. I used a coke can (for now) to make a gasket to block off the ports.
I intalled a PCV valve in the passenger side line that goes from the throttle body to the valve cover.
The sealer on top of my MAF sensor was failing, so I took off the top of it, cleaned it up, and resealed it. The stupid thing was leaking very badly and under pressure, it looked like the top might pop off at any second.
Most of my aged vac lines would either leak or pop off under pressure, I have replaced a few of them and I am still working on replacing the rest. I have been using zip ties on the ends of all lines to help secure them.
Well, after doing all of that, I have been consistently seeing 3psi at around 3500 to 4000 rpm with moderate throttle opening. I haven't pushed it yet cause my tune is still a bit funky.
Over this weekend I plan on replacing the rest of my vac lines. Also, I am finally going to convert to speed density via the MAFTPro. TurboBob over at Full Throttle http://www.fullthrottletech.com/index.php has been very helpful in making the speed density thing possible for the Lexus **400. The only problem with it now is that the car will stall when the wheel is turned because of the power steering pump vac switch. Currently, the vac line to the MAP sensor is sharing the same intake source as one of the lines for the power steering pump vac switch, I am going to move one or the other to see if it helps. If not, I am confident that TurboBob will be able to fix the issue with some more programing. For now, I will likely just plug the line for the pump switch.
After I get rid of the MAF and replace the rest of my vac lines, I will do an intake leak test to double check everything. Next will be some tuning, then I'll let her rip and see what it will do.
KC
kc95sc400
New Member
- Messages
- 524
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Yes, the battery tray is removed.
If I'm not mistaken by looking at the pics of his car, George has a Soarer. Maybe the body is a little different?
I don't know. But on mine, the fish bracket wouldn't even sit in place before modding the body.
KC
Lextreme II
Just call me "Lex"
- Messages
- 12,033
- Location
- City of Halos
Couple of things with Supercharger. You dont make boost if you baby the gas padel. You have to floor it pretty much. Just normal driving you most likely wouldnt see any boost. Do you notice any oil leak from anywhere at all? If you do, then you might pressurizing your crank case instead of your cylinders. P.S. How much was it off? Perhaps I can mod my CAD file to make it fit for the USDM SC400.
kc95sc400
New Member
- Messages
- 524
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
I was making 3psi with moderate throttle in third gear (3500ish) on the highway.:veryhappy:
I was putting pressure into the crank case before I added the passenger side PCV. There is always normal blow by pressure in the crank case, this is the reason for the PCV to begin with. And also why one should NEVER plug off the PCV hoses. I tried this at one point and the seal on the back of the passenger side head blew out. I managed to pop it back in and haven't had anymore problems with it.
KC
kc95sc400
New Member
- Messages
- 524
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Guys,
I know I'm slack on the updates.
It appears that my boost issues are all taken care of. Just earlier today I was making 6psi @ 5000rpm with the AFR sitting at 12.5 to 1. All I can say is wow.
List of problems I had making boost...
I didn't know about the passenger side PCV vent hose. I installed a PCV on the hose.
My EGR valve was leaking externally in 3 or 4 places. I think it was also leaking into the exhaust. I made a gasket out of a coke can (for now) and blocked of the ports. I think the EGR valve was my biggest problem.
After I plugged the EGR valve, I was seeing some boost, but then my MAF sensor started leaking severly. Not only was this affecting boost, it was also screwing with the way the car ran. I removed the top cover of the sensor and re-sealed it.
After blocking the EGR and fixing the MAF, every time I would start to get into boost, the AFR would go extremly rich. 10 to 1 or lower, which makes the car run like butt, then it would idle very lean. I figured out that everytime I got into boost a vacuum line would come off or crack. So, I replaced every vac line that I could find.
After all that, I'm making consistent boost. YEE HAW!
Now my only issue is tuning. TurboBob (works for MAFTPRO) made me a beta program for the T-Pro to run speed density. It is very unstable and the car dosen't run very well with it. In time, I am confident that he can fix it. The 6psi I was getting today was accomplished with the MAF in place and the T-Pro disconnected. I wanted to make sure that I don't have any other issues that may be causing it to run weird with the T-Pro. Well, the car ran great without it. Even sat at 12.5 to 1 @ 6psi with only the ECU controlling fuel and no aftermarket regulator. I do have an occasional miss, I think that my plugs are probably fouled from running rich so much. I will pull them to check in the near future. Like I said, I am sure that TurboBob will make it work for me, he just needs some time to sort it out.
I did run it a few days using speed density without the MAF. Without the MAF and 3 inch pipe in place of the factory intake, it seemed to build boost a bit faster. Here's a pic of my setup without the MAF. I will likely just use the T-Pro as a fuel controller until the speed density thing is fixed.
So anyway, I am finally making some boost. I estimate with the 6psi @ 5000rpm, I should have 8 or 9psi at 6500rpm!?!? And so far, no signs of running out of fuel.
Hurray for me!
KC
I know I'm slack on the updates.
It appears that my boost issues are all taken care of. Just earlier today I was making 6psi @ 5000rpm with the AFR sitting at 12.5 to 1. All I can say is wow.
List of problems I had making boost...
I didn't know about the passenger side PCV vent hose. I installed a PCV on the hose.
My EGR valve was leaking externally in 3 or 4 places. I think it was also leaking into the exhaust. I made a gasket out of a coke can (for now) and blocked of the ports. I think the EGR valve was my biggest problem.
After I plugged the EGR valve, I was seeing some boost, but then my MAF sensor started leaking severly. Not only was this affecting boost, it was also screwing with the way the car ran. I removed the top cover of the sensor and re-sealed it.
After blocking the EGR and fixing the MAF, every time I would start to get into boost, the AFR would go extremly rich. 10 to 1 or lower, which makes the car run like butt, then it would idle very lean. I figured out that everytime I got into boost a vacuum line would come off or crack. So, I replaced every vac line that I could find.
After all that, I'm making consistent boost. YEE HAW!
Now my only issue is tuning. TurboBob (works for MAFTPRO) made me a beta program for the T-Pro to run speed density. It is very unstable and the car dosen't run very well with it. In time, I am confident that he can fix it. The 6psi I was getting today was accomplished with the MAF in place and the T-Pro disconnected. I wanted to make sure that I don't have any other issues that may be causing it to run weird with the T-Pro. Well, the car ran great without it. Even sat at 12.5 to 1 @ 6psi with only the ECU controlling fuel and no aftermarket regulator. I do have an occasional miss, I think that my plugs are probably fouled from running rich so much. I will pull them to check in the near future. Like I said, I am sure that TurboBob will make it work for me, he just needs some time to sort it out.
I did run it a few days using speed density without the MAF. Without the MAF and 3 inch pipe in place of the factory intake, it seemed to build boost a bit faster. Here's a pic of my setup without the MAF. I will likely just use the T-Pro as a fuel controller until the speed density thing is fixed.
So anyway, I am finally making some boost. I estimate with the 6psi @ 5000rpm, I should have 8 or 9psi at 6500rpm!?!? And so far, no signs of running out of fuel.
Hurray for me!
KC
Similar threads
