The Egr Block Begins?

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

jibby

New Member
Messages
857
Location
Santa Monica, Ca.
Hey guys wanted to get started on installing my headers but need to first block the EGR successfully. Got the block kit from Lex and have it all down and was ready to go on it today but have two questions 1) this transistor where does it go? Any pics or description to place this little guy to fool the ECU? 2) Can the egr be blocked before the header swap or is it easier to do at the same time? Here is the pic of the blocker kit..... Also is there ever any hp gains with the EGR blocked? No one has posted results, just fuel mixture issues, plates, engine pinging, etc.. in the search function any help on this would be appreciated...
 
The transistor goes in the wire harness plug thats connected to a air temp sensor. This sensor is below the EGR valve, unplug it, and put this into the harness.

The EGR can be blocked before the headers are installed. It might save some time during the install of the headers if you did so.

You won't really gain any noticeable HP with this mod, just a much cleaner engine bay.
 
Thanks xirforever, still a little fuzzy on the where to install the transistor but I will give it try and figure it out based on what you just said...got one last question for you, any chance this car will still pass the smog check after deletion of the EGR? I am guessing no ...
 
i pass emitions here in st. louis with no egr, not sure about the smog test you guys have in cali. I heard that the egr doesnt even do anything on idle so it might not even effect your emitions. (not 100% positive though)

Im sure youll figure out where to put the resistor, if you cant i can load a picture.
 
if the headers require it its one thing. but to be honest im not even sure why people block their egr's. egr's operate at cruise, on WOT acceleration they arent working anyways. theyre for keeping nox down while cruising along the highway, etc. i cant speak for the missouri or cali e-tests. but i know up here if the egr isnt functioning 99% of the time the car will fail. that and if the egr isnt operational (or not there at all) the car is supposed to fail before the sniffer even gets pulled out.
 
hn..... I am blocking the egr because of the S&S header install I am trying, only because it is necessary and for no other reason.....
 
EGR Removal (Resistor location)

I had my mechanic install the EGR Kit and I installed the S & S Headers. My harness has six wires on it (1995 Lexus SC400). Can you be more specific as to which wires need to be jumped in the harness. Maybe you can tell me what color the wires are? Maybe I am looking at the wrong plug. A picture would be great. Thank you in advance.
 
I figured it out there is only two inlets on the plug and each side of cross over circiut goes into each inlet. I had to do the same for my hydro pump.. I will take a pic of what it looks like tomorrow and post before I cover it all up...

Dude how does your headers sound, am I in for a rude suprise? Big power gains?
 
Yep, those little circuits work great... I used one on the hydro pump plug and it tricked the ECU perfectly... Good pic's Zir......and deleting the EGR really does clean up the engine.. Man, I am going to have to remove my bling bling vacume lines:sorry:
 
hnknrob said:
if the headers require it its one thing. but to be honest im not even sure why people block their egr's. egr's operate at cruise, on WOT acceleration they arent working anyways. theyre for keeping nox down while cruising along the highway, etc. i cant speak for the missouri or cali e-tests. but i know up here if the egr isnt functioning 99% of the time the car will fail. that and if the egr isnt operational (or not there at all) the car is supposed to fail before the sniffer even gets pulled out.
Blocking the EGR is more of benefitial to the car's performance than the negative side. Not to only mention the cleaner looking engine, blocking the EGR will stop the hot exhaust gas getting into the intake chamber. Thus, with cooler intake air, the oxygen will be more densed and provide better combustion. It might make a few more hp due to this (I don't guarantee this). The gaining of hp assumption has not been tested. The EGR is mainly for recirculation of unburned fuel that comes out from the headers back to the intake for another combustion. Unburned fuel coming out from the exhaust leads to better chance of pollution. But honestly, with only a few cars that do this, the result would be like a grain of salt in the ocean.
 
I know I'm replying to a post that is a month old, but since steve did...
EGR is a double edged sword. It controls emessions (eh), and it is an important system to control pre-ignition; arguably the most important. (Including knock sensors. For the record I said arguably, not is more important!)
The problems are that it takes power at part throttle (not a problem - just use more throttle), takes power at full throttle (Carbon build-up lowers intake velocity), and the carbon itself is a sorce of pre-ignition. You also get into many engines where the EGR valve is located directly pointing to, or near the IAC/ISC idle control, and the throttlebody. The IAC/ISC, throttlebody, AND EGR valves are all bad to clog with carbon & stop functioning because of it.

Like I said. EGR is a double edged sword. Good for the masses (Plus it gives mechanics something to charge $100 for 10 min worth of diagnostics & work), but it is not good for performance applications. It's simply one more thing to deal with.
(You *could* concieveably use it in a performance application to gain those extra few points of octane needed, but there are many problems with this, no solutions, noone with experiance doing so, and lastly you will have to tear the engine down to clean it.)


This is a 1999 1mz-fe v6, picture taking in 2003 of the upper intake air chamber (AKA the upper most intake manifold).

Intake-Carbon.jpg
ACIS-Build-up.jpg
That is only 4 years worth of normal driving.


My '93 3vz-fe v6, pictures taken in 2004.

Intake manifold
Dirty-Intake-Manifold.jpg
Intake port
Dirty-intake-valve.jpg
 
Combustion chambers
Pistons.jpg

Pistons.jpg
VS a rebuild 1 year later, without EGR, and some on/off water injection / seafoam.
Block1.jpg
BlockCylinderPiston-1.jpg

Look at the #2 & #6 pistons (the outer ones).
Clean, not a hint of carbon.





While not a v8... Toyota uses the exact same EGR control system, and the same basic valve design on all the engines. It also has the same + & - effects on every one.
The obvious Toyota troubleshooting tip of the decade. If it does NOT have vvt-i, it has EGR, and an IAC/ISC. If the engine has problems maintaining an idle idle / low throttle performance. Start by cleaning the IAC/ISC of carbon, along with the EGR valve itself. 90% of the time, the valves are completely caked with carbon & can no longer move.
 
You're having a good point there and with the EGR malfunctioning..etc. But 1UZFE engines from Australia have no EGR. I have seen a few 1UZFEs from the states other than California (strictest state about emission rule) don't have that EGR. None of them had any problem with emission control and performance. I've talked to a leader of a Toyota mechanic team and he also told me that elimination of the EGR is better for performance. This guy has been working for 23 years for Toyota only, had many certificates from Toyota, and also built numerous performance cars. He's a friend of mine and I do believe in him on Toyota cars. I just lost a Toyota file containing the explanation of EGR for the 1UZFE. Otherwise, I would post it up.
 
Mmmm, EGR is there to lower peak combustion temperatures and thereby reduce NOx.

It was one of Detroit's less than clever solutions to lower emissions back when they were still clinging to carburetors, and the rest of the world was moving on to fuel injection. I believe the only reason EGR still appears on Toyota engines in the USSA is because it's mandated by our government, not because it's necessary. Toyota has already met the European emissions requirements without it, and this is the reason their JDM and European engines are not equipped with it.

Introducing exhaust gas back into the intake is supposed to be like putting an inert gas in, because it won't burn, thereby contributing nothing to combustion except to cool it down.

Where it hurts "us" enthusiasts is in raising the intake air temps, which most would agree, makes the engine "more" susceptible to preignition. Plus as Toysrme very graphically pointed out, it tends to bring lots of carbon and other gook back into the intake tract.

EGR is not supposed to be active during idle or full throttle, but when the EGR valves get stuck with crud, they sure cause lots of problems for idling 'cause they're major vacuum leaks.

John
 
It is true that pumping such hot temperatures back into the intake will heat it. That is more than made up by from the effective enrichment it provides.

Something I forgot to mention.

Nearly noone every recognizes, or even realizes one positive effect EGR has.
Many EGR systems (I can't comment on the 1uz-fe's, most of the i4's and all of the EGR v6's do this) route to a small aluminum heatsink (think water cooler for a CPU). The EGR heats this pipe which is filled with coolant. Two good things come from that:
1) The water is then routed to the throttlebody, unfreezing the throttlebody faster than waiting for coolant to come up to temp. (Many IAC/ISC valves also have the coolant routed through them)
2) The EGR temperature is somewhat lowered.
Not all systems do that, but many do.

Obviously... Removing the throttle body coolant supply is good b/c it doesn't heat up as much. The TB coolant is also the best stock coolant supply/return for water cooled turbos. Nobody misses that!







EGR is only mandated kind-of. All of Toyota's with vvt-i engines get away without having an EGR system.
 


Top