T56 billet bellhousing

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autronic

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Tremec T56 custom billet bellhousing

I'm working on a custom billet aluminium bell housing to fit the Tremec T56/TR6060 behind a 1UZFE engine.

The Tremec T56/TR6060 has a real short input shaft so the normal stock auto bell housing and adapter plate solution
will not work, the stock bellhousing and adapter will be 190 mm when the bell housing need to be about 120 mm.

I have the drawing ready for this bellhousing ( have a look at the pictures ).
My question for you guys, is anybody interested in something like this ?

My pricing guesstimate is about $1000 for one custom billet bell housing. You can retain the stock Chevy slave
clutch cylinder on the T56, this makes this bit easier.

------

An update to this first post.

The bell housing will be 134 mm long, I checked a Chevy T56 how long the input shaft is and found it was
longer than I had been told.

The price looks to end at $495.
 

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Trond, have you given any thought to doing an adapter for the UZ to the 6spd Supra tranny? There's not many of those around at the moment :)
 
cribbj:

Honestly, no.

There are several reasons:

- The Supra 6 speed has an integrated bell housing, this makes it "interesting" to make the 2 adapter plates
needed.
In order to make certain the gearbox is aligned you have to mill the plates as the input bearing on gearboxes
will not last long if the alignment is off more than 0.1 mm ( 0.0039" ).
Water cutting the 2 plates will not be accurate enough, so milling the 2 different plates needed will be expensive.

- I don't like the gearing ratios in the 6. speed Supra box and they can not be changed ( I might be wrong on this ).

- I don't have access to a Supra 6. speed gearbox + the Tremec T56 is cheaper and easier to get hold of.

- The T56 can be converted to 4WD and withstand the torque when you start having fun with the 4WD.

- The T56 is available with 3 or 4 different gear leaver placements.

- The T56 is available with a lot of different gearing ratios.

- The T56 is capable of dealing with 850 lbs/ft without costing an arm and a leg.

- Since the T56 uses Chevy input spline, clutch choice is not a problem, You can get everything from a
Tilton 7.25" carbon/carbon to a stock 9.5" ( 241 mm ) organic + everything in between.
One that comes to mind is the Mcleod "street twin", a 800 lbs/ft two disc organic + a 1000 lbs/ft two
disc cera metallic.


My personal choice is the T56 and the "upgrade" to it, the TR6060. As everything in life there is choices and the
T56 is what I choose.
 
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Checked out the TR6060 on ebay and they are around $1,400 to $2,000. Any info on the flywheel, clutch assembly and other misc parts?
 
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Lex:

Yup, you might need a stronger gearbox.....:)

Joke aside, I'm working with a company in the US about this bell housing, if everything goes as it should they will be
carrying the bell housing as one of they're regular products.

Since this bell housing is meant for the Chevy gearbox you will be able to use the stock Chevy clutch slave cylinder,
this will be a reasonable priced solution and it should last.
 
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Lex:

When it comes to flywheels you can use anything you want. The choice of flywheel is dictated by the pressure
plate you plan to run, not by the type of input spline the gearbox have.
When you have decided on the clutch cover, you start worrying about what clutch plate you will use.
It is possible to combine a Toyota pressure plate and a Chevy clutch plate as long as the outer diameter is
the same on both ( normally 241 mm outer diameter cover and plate ).

It's not difficult to get custom clutch assemblies made, I have dealt extensively with South Bend Clutch.
They have made several custom setups for me:

- Ford Sierra Cosworth spline on a 241 mm cerametallic plate combined with a Sachs Racing pressure plate.
This used a stock flywheel with modified bolt pattern.

- BMW spline on a 241 mm ferametallic plate combined with a Sachs Racing pressure plate.
This was a BMW gearbox on a Volvo engine so a custom 6.5 kg flywheel was made up with the correct bolt pattern.

- 2 pcs Chevy spline ( 9.5", 241 mm diameter ) kevlar lined plates combined with a Sachs Racing pressure plate.
This is the clutch I will be using on my engine, a custom flywheel have been made with the appropriate bolt pattern.
It weighs in at a sweltering 5.5 kgs.

- Volvo spline ( 9.5", 241 mm ) organic plate combined with a Sachs Racing pressure plate. Again behind a Volvo
engine, so the same flywheel as the other Volvo engine was used.

The combination's are endless, you just have to find what you need and take it from there.

If you have trouble finding an appropriate flywheel, custom flywheels are easy to get made, I have made several.
At the moment I'm drawing a flywheel for a friend of mine, he will be using an Audi pressure plate on a BMW engine.
I have also just finished drawings for a BMW flywheel for a Tilton 7.25" ( 185 mm ) twin plate cerametallic clutch.

I have enclosed a couple of pictures of the Volvo flywheels, the first is how the drawing looked and the second
was the finished product. They have been the most tricky to make due to the Motronic 60-2 trigger wheel machined
into the outer edge of the flywheel. They also have multiple bolt patterns for different pressure plates.
 

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The final drawing is with the bell house manufacturer. I double and tripple checked all measurements on the
UZFE side so I'm 99.99 % certain they are correct. On the T56 side I know they are off, but the manufacturer
will correct those, so the T56 should line up perfectly.

Some pictures of the drawing I sent off.

The way it's drawn it's possible to make it from billet without it costing an arm and a leg. The result is, you
have to make up a small plate to cover the starter yourself. This will save a lot of machining time ( and keep
the cost down ) instead of making the usual 1UZFE starter "hump" integrated in the bell housing. As it is, the
teeth will be covered, but the small round piece "behind" ( towards the gearbox ) will be halfway in the open.
 

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Just an update on the progress. The drawing has been converted to nc code and a final "test run" has been done
( without machining anything ) so everything looks ready.

The manufacturer have ordered the blanks needed to make 2 of the bell housings and they will be delivered in
4 weeks time.
 
And this picture just dropped into my e-mail.. It shows the bell housing now that the manufacturer
is working on it.

They have added fluid in/out openings to the Chevy concentric slave cylinder and they have also
included the Chevy and Ford T56 bolt pattern.

If you guys see anything missing, have any suggestions to other stuff to be included, now is the
time to speak up !
 

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i would rather use that input shaft its longer and stronger than the old lt1 t-56 the only t-56 stronger than the corvette one. the only one stronger from what i have read is the viper t-56 and i have seen adapter plates for these ones they dont look to nice but they do have them... i would love to see a billet one like your making for the corvette version of the t-56
 
tom steele:

Welcome to our little corner of the net.

This bell housing can be used on all the UZFE engines, 1UZFE, 2UZFE and 3UZFE.

I will look at flywheel and clutch choices for this bell housing in my next post.

When it comes to strength, it's the spline count that's interesting, not if it is a LT1 input shaft or a LS1
input shaft.
A Chevy 26 spline will be stronger that a Ford 10 spline, it's just physics ( total contact area ).

There is a lot of different 26 spline input shafts to the T56, all measurements is from the bell housing
flange on the T56, to the front tip of the input shaft.

- Chevrolet LT1 ( measured myself ): 142.5 mm
- Holden Commodore VE ( been told ): 153.0 mm
- Chevrolet LS1 ( Tremec documentation ): 164.0 mm
- Holden Commodore VX ( been told ): 165.0 mm
- Dodge Viper ( measured myself ): 184.0 mm

This bell housing is designed for the Chevrolet LT1, the shortest T56 input shaft. The reason for this is to
be able to fit this big gearbox up inside a gearbox tunnel without hacking it to pieces. The front of the T56 is
( almost ) as big as a bell housing. The easiest way to get it to fit is to move it forward as the gear box
tunnel is biggest up front.

The Chevrolet Corvette C5/C6 have the gearbox at the back of the car, to use it will require a bit of DIY.
 
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Flywheel and clutch choices for this bell housing, it's your imagination that limits your choice.

I have put together a few setups I think will get the job done.


1) Single 241 mm ( 9.5" ), sprung center, South Bend clutch modified Sachs Racing CA707 clutch cover.

Flywheel: Custom steel 241 mm with Sachs Racing bolt pattern. It weights 6 kgs + the starter ring
( picture below ).
It's meant to be used with ARP 203-2802 flywheel bolts ( Toyota 4AG engine ).

Clutch cover: South Bend modified Sachs Racing CA707 cover. It have 3300 lbs clamping force +
is cryo treated.

Clutch plates: South Bend clutch plates. You can run with or without a sprung center, that's an individual
choice as to what you can tolerate.
Together with the cover it's possible to have a clutch that can take 700 LBS/ft ( Ferametallic ) or 600 lbs/ft
( Kevlar )

Concentric slave cylinder: Use stock Chevrolet LS1 ( push type ).


2) Dual 241 mm ( 9.5" ) plates, sprung centers, stock Sachs Racing CA707 clutch cover.

Similar to the setup above, but more complex and expensive. It will behave like a stock clutch and
take over 800 lbs/ft with two Kevlar sprung clutch plates. Different flywheel, needs a strapped
"floater" between the two clutch plates
This is what I plan to use, it will just fit inside the bell housing with a different flywheel and a special
concentric slave.


3) Tilton/AP Racing 185 mm ( 7.25" ) twin or triple.

Flywheel: I can make these or you can have the drawings to make your own.
It's meant to be used with ARP 203-2802 flywheel bolts ( Toyota 4AG engine ).
One final possibility is to get these from Australia/New Zealand. There is people on the site using these, do
a search.

Clutch: If you go this route I recommend going for a twin ( dual ) "cerametallic" instead of a twin or triple
"sintered". The "sintered" clutch is a pure racing clutch and will not live long on the street as they do not
stand up to abuse ( slip ).
The "cerametallic" is better as that can take a bit of abuse ( slip ).


4) Modifying a Fidanza/Excedy/McLeod/RAM/whatever twin clutch to suit is possible, YMMW.
 

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thanks for all the info man you really know what your talking about now i understand why you are using that t-56 it makes total sense when you mentioned the tunnel and not having to chop it up thats a big help... thank's for the quick replies i am trying to decide weather i am going to swap motor and tranny or just the tranny thanks for all your help
 


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