Project Thread Supercharged Supra

[Peewee]

Rod, the alternator on post #609 has been dropped. 100% guaranteed.

The alternator on post #615 is undamaged.

 

[cribbj]

Rod, I just compared my "good" one with the weird connector against the junker with the round connector, and it definitely looks like the "good" one has been dropped. The sheet metal is mashed in one area and is pushing the connector housing out of round.

 

[Zuffen]

I missed post 609.

I agree it's been dropped but post 615 is as it should be.

I know it isn't a UZ alternator but definitely out of the Toyota factory.

 

[cribbj]

Parts interchangeability 1UZ & 2UZ

I'm test fitting all the driven accessories on the mule motor and noticed something interesting with the A/C compressor. The front two holes mated up fine on the fan idler bracket, however the rear hole in the A/C compressor misses the hole in the block by about 1/8" to 3/16". The compressor's hole is centered too far to the rear.

Possible Conclusions:

1. The 2UZ oil pump I'm using needs a fiber gasket behind it, and/or the assembly is thinner than the 1UZ oil pump.

2. My $60 eBay (Chinese) fan idler bracket for the LS might not have been such a good bargain.

3. The A/C compressor's rear mounting hole wasn't done right.

I'm leaning toward blaming it on the Chinese knockoff bracket.

I think I still have an old hydraulic pump in one of my junkpiles, so I'm going to throw that on and see if it makes any difference.

 

[cribbj]

Mounted the hydro pump and the rear mount on the compressor still doesn't line up with the block.

Next up was the 2UZ oil pump and 2UZ water pump that I have on this engine. I compared the oil pump to a 1UZ junker, and it does appear that the mounting pads for the fan idler bracket are between 1/16" and 1/8" higher on the junker, so there's part of the discrepancy.

The only things left are whether I should be running some gaskets under these pumps, or the compressor mounting hole is off. I'll be getting a new compressor this week to compare.

 

[Peewee]

I doubt the gasket would be that thick.
But I also doubt the aircon compressor will be out.
And it seems unlikely that the oil pump would be different...

So yeah, I'm no help

 

[scotturnot]

John,
This is really got me worried, I have a 2uz block and a 1uz pump, I have not tried my compressor yet, its still hooked to the car, I managedto leave it in the bay hooked up when I pulled my motor so I didnt lose my refrigerant

 

[cribbj]

Scott, if it's any consolation, the mounting boss on the back of the compressor has got plenty of meat to oval out the holes.

I'm still looking at other alternatives - I don't think there were any spacers needed under the fan idler bracket, but this whole situation is acting like some spacers are required.

 

[scotturnot]

That does help some, still trying to figure out how the idler contributes to the compressor position, Think I will study mine tonight.

 

[cribbj]

Here's some pics.

The first one shows the front of the motor without the fan idler bracket.

Second shows the fan idler bracket mounted - note the studs projecting out the right side of the idler bracket - that's where the A/C compressor slips on.

Third shows the A/C compressor mounted

Fourth shows the side of the motor and the rear hole for the compressor mount

Fifth shows how the rear mounting hole is missing the hole in the block.

 

[Zuffen]

I'd suggest the Chinese fan bracket it too thin.

Check how well the air compressor lines up with the belt run.

If it too far back you have the answer.

Add a couple of appropriate sized washers/spacers and you're in business.

 

[cribbj]

Rod, I thought sure it was the Chinese bracket too, so I put the OEM hydro pump back on and still had the problem.

So it's either the compressor itself, or possibly my 2UZ oil & water pumps being slightly different than the 1UZ versions, or I've missed some spacers in the assembly

(I've never seen a "fully dressed" 1UZ - I've been testing them for the last few years without most of these accessories mounted.)

 

[Zuffen]

The oil and water pumps don't have any seals (aside fromt the 25mm "O" ring on the oil pump, as they are all chemical.

 

[cribbj]

Well who'd have thunk it. I received the new A/C compressor yesterday and test fit it, and the mounting holes line up perfectly. Don't know which Lexus motor the old one came off of, but there must have been some serious tolerance issues:



Have also been hydro testing my SS fuel rails. These rails are a combination of chunks of SS billet for the injector bungs and heavy wall SS tubing, welded together. I had checked them once before with 100 psi air and found leaks, so my fabricator redid his welding and certified them "leak free". Ha! This time, I pressurised them with ATF, using a hydraulic "porta power" pump, up to 500 psi, and did find one tiny pinhole leak. I wanted to put them under additional vibrational stress, so while they were under pressure, I tapped each of the bungs several times with a hammer. I had wanted to go higher on the pressure, to simulate the transient "water hammer" effect we have with the injectors popping open & shut, but I kept blowing the rubber plugs out over 500 psi, even with the clamps shown (that first plug in the photo was in the process of "walking" out of its bung just as I snapped this photo). I may try again using some brass caps over the rubber plugs, then using the clamps to hold the caps in place:

 

[stevechumo]

Are you turning your backyard into a laboratory? I can't think of anything from the engine that can handle over 500 psi. BP company should hire you to conduct testings on hydraulic pressure before their drilling the oil wells. LOL.

 

[cribbj]

I hear you Steve; The testing at these higher pressures is probably a little over the top, but I just want to be sure these fuel rails are as robust as they can be. Fuel leaks are not a good thing

 

[hungryforinfo]

I had that aircon problem on a 1uz I had years ago, and think it was because I was trying to use a crown compressor on a soarer motor??

 

[cribbj]

I had that aircon problem on a 1uz I had years ago, and think it was because I was trying to use a crown compressor on a soarer motor??

Thanks for that; I've only found two different styles of these compressors so far, and one of them obviously doesn't fit at all, and the other had the slight misalignment shown. But from your comments, maybe there's a third style?

In other news, I've got all the pieces mounted for mockup & measurement now, and decided to plug in all the pigtails that Bill @ Autowiring Solutions made for me...... now I kinda wish I hadn't; it just shows how much more work is left just on the engine electrical side. I need to route each of these pigtails, and measure it for length & fitment, cut them and get the milspec pins crimped on, then get the braided hoses measured, cut & crimped, and assemble it all.



Also mounted the fuel rails with injectors. This is the first time the manifold, supercharger, fuel rails, injectors, and the wiring rails have all been together. And it all fits, woohoo!

 

[Zuffen]

2 questions.

1. how do you plan on mounting the fuel rails? There aren't any tabs to bolt to the bossed on the manifold.

2, your top plate is bolted down with studs and nuts whereas mine uses countersunk cap head bolts. I wonder why the change. Mine seems to work OK but it is a cow to get the allen key in there and tighten them up.

 

[cribbj]

Rod,

1) The rails aren't quite finished; as you noticed, I still have to get some tabs welded on the injector bungs

2) My first top plate was like yours, but I had a new top plate fabricated so I could use a 3/8" thicker spacer plate between the charger and the inlet ell. The rear bearing housing for the rotors was sticking out past the spacer, and fouling the ell, and made it nearly impossible to disassemble the unit without pulling it completely off the manifold.

When the new plate was being fabricated and machined, I asked the fabricator not to countersink the holes, as I was planning on using studs/nuts for the very reasons you mentioned.