The motor is done!
Haven't posted in this thread for awhile as I've been beavering away on my motor.
I picked up the motor nearly three months ago after a trusted shop had reassembled it, following a two year "build" of the long block by a well known engine builder. When I picked it up it looked as bad as the first time I'd seen it, when it arrived from the wreckers on a pallet. Dirty, greasy, rusty and corroded pretty much sums it up. The assembler had taken all the old parts, like the water pump, oil pump, manifolds, oil filter, etc. and had stuck them all back on without any cleaning. It looked soooo bad that I couldn't believe a $10K motor was hiding under all that......
Anyway, I collected my $10K POS motor, went home, and began disassembling it and ordering new parts. What I found when I really got into it was blue silicone oozing everywhere, even where OEM gaskets and O-rings were required, and just generally a really sloppy job of assembly.
Spent the next 2.5 months reassembling it with all new parts and SS fasteners on the exterior. There's just something about the look of clean aluminum and stainless fasteners that's very erotic to gearheads ;-)
So it's mechanically complete now, and this weekend I'll be starting the wiring. Actually the only wiring to be done is the (8) COP's to the EDIS8 ignition, and the starter, since I'm running a Holley carburetor on it for breakin.
So here's some pics.
This first one shows off the front of the motor pretty well, and the mods I made to the oil system for the remote oil filter. Those are -10AN fittings on that adaptor plate, and a -6AN fitting where the PCV valve usually goes. I'll be running a air/oil separator & catch can, so I've got fittings on both valve covers.
All of the front of the motor is from the 2UZ, ie oil pump, water pump, timing tensioner, timing idler, serp idler bracket, etc. The 2UZ parts fit just fine, and were less than half the price of the Lexus 1UZ parts.
The dampner is one of Andrew Mueller's (Richwood Technology) 8 rib pulleys. I've got the rest of the 8 rib set still in boxes, and they'll go on when the supercharger does.
Here's the opposite side, showing the -8AN fitting that I installed for my prelube system. My car sits for 4-6 weeks at a time, and I've always liked the idea of having a prelubrication cycle before firing the motor. We did it as a standard with our Caterpillar engines.
Here's a shot of the Holley carb. I used the standard Richwood top plate, and added another 3/8" plate to it, adapted for the Holley. You can see some of the machining marks we made on it trying to mill it flat, but the 3/8" plate kept bowing up in the middle due to the heat, even with wet grinding. Those fasteners on top of the 2" carb spacer go straight through and are sealed on top & bottom. The fasteners on the left & right side are sealed on the top only with special flanged sealing washers. We don't want any vacuum leaks on the dyno.
Here's a closer shot of those sealing washers. I think I should have bought stock in McMaster Carr before I started this. I've had deliveries nearly every day from them for the last two weeks. Nearly all the stainless fasteners in the M8 and M6 sizes are from them. The M8 studs, all the M10 fasteners and all the flange nuts were imported from the UK, as they simply don't exist here in the USA (at least not that I could find).
There's a big cube old skool pushrod V8 locally running a turbo about 50% bigger again than that puppy. Has laid down around 1200hp which just goes to show how impressive a 'small' capacity 2J is.
