Supercharged 1UZ Bangkok Drag Truck

PARTS FOR SALE: Send an email to [email protected] for availability.

Ouch! Those prices are a little high (example: US$ 1700.oo for a fully upgraded competition C4 with brake) . . . especially since the US Dollar is weak now. Yes, the 1.80 Powerglide looks like a good option. My thinking, however, is that the three-speed would be better with my little Vortech blower since I would allow the motor to be at a higher RPM for a larger percent of the 1/4 mile run, thus more "time on higher boost," thus quicker. Of course, with the Powerglide I would get to high gear sooner and might actually be on boost longer there . . . . . what say you?
 
Actually, that AU$3,800 complete package race C4 from A1 is not such a bad price, now that I think about it. If it includes every part I need, it is actually pretty good. If I were to order the parts separately from the USA it would be about the same (excluding shipping, of course):

Race (Transbrake) C4 = US$1700
Race Torque Converter US$800
Adapter/Bell US$900
Total US$3400

But if it all matched, fitted, and machined at the same shop, the problems would be minimal or non-existent. Now, if I would need to know if the A1 C4 is the same (or better) spec and the quality was about the same . . . . .
 




PLAN 'B'
I have been weighing my transmission options: a race Ford C4/TH350
(with adapter, slip joint, trans brake, and therefore, a new rear-end too
comes in at around US$5000.95), or a rebuild of the existing transmission
with stronger parts and a spring in the 1-2 accumulator instead of the
existing piece of brass pipe (cost around US$900.95 including 7
clutches/steels) so the 1-2 shift is a little softer, and therefore easier on
the 2nd gear sprag, the part that I suspect broke. My immediate plan is
to take out the broken trans and see exactly what broke before I take my
next step. If something like the input shaft broke, then I will opt for the
bigger C4, but if it is 'just' the 2nd gear sprag, I will rebuild it. That's the
plan . . . but things have a habit of changing over time . . . . if the rebuild
breaks, I will go with the C4/TH350.
 

ash

New Member
I'm yet to understand hi rpm converter, transbreak.. Etc etc...
its all in the stator and pump fin design


the powerglide options, with PTC design converter, it allows the motor to stay UP in the rpm band, and still create massive torque multiplication..

have a look around the web for PTC converters
 

XR8tt

Moderator
its all in the stator and pump fin design


the powerglide options, with PTC design converter, it allows the motor to stay UP in the rpm band, and still create massive torque multiplication..

have a look around the web for PTC converters
Yep ... It's that I keep thinking of manual trans...
Like having 5500 converter and max rpm of say ?? 7000 rpm..
With 2 speed it doesn't seem to have enough legs...
I guess that's why they call them "torque" converters...
Engine tune can make a hell of a difference too..
A friend went from manual to auto with 4000 converter / 2 step etc..
The tune of engine was the same as it was fitted just to run the event and get used to new trans..
In this case it seems MORE advance to get engine up on converter, plus I think we need to go over fuel return system as it seems to run higher fuel pressure all through boost & rpm.. Even with N20..
Run 2/10's of previous best time on unsorted engine..

If you know the auto and it's weak links. They can be strengthened etc.. BUT if they keep breaking then it becomes a pita to race..
Even Powerglides with "high power" keep up with replacing relatively cheap parts after few runs... They need servicing before they break..
 
Thanks guys for your time and interest . . . and recommendations. With the small Vortech V9 supercharger making only 8+ pounds of boost or so in the 4000-6800rpm band, I want to stay in that rpm zone as much as I can throughout a 1/4 mile run, so the three-speed auto makes more sense to me. Remember these 1UZs are only 242 cu. in. (4.0L) - not a big block with gobs of torque. I suspect my car is right on the borderline for having enough torque to take advantage of a Powerglide. My car weighs around 850 kilos (1870 pounds).
 

ash

New Member
Thanks guys for your time and interest . . . and recommendations. With the small Vortech V9 supercharger making only 8+ pounds of boost or so in the 4000-6800rpm band, I want to stay in that rpm zone as much as I can throughout a 1/4 mile run, so the three-speed auto makes more sense to me. Remember these 1UZs are only 242 cu. in. (4.0L) - not a big block with gobs of torque. I suspect my car is right on the borderline for having enough torque to take advantage of a Powerglide. My car weighs around 850 kilos (1870 pounds).

really cool build, i enjoyed reading it.
with the weight of the car, i believe it would be faster and cheaper with a powerglide.
at the moment, the torque of the lexus is really working, and coming into its own, at those rpm's.

example of my powerglide:
std oem 1.76 gear set, std housing, std 6 pack high clutch, std 6 pack reverse clutch pack, and a name brand low gear band, and 235-240 psi trans pump pressure, we did over a 100 passes @ 1920 lbs in the high 6 second, low 7 second range.
saying that, you power glide with cost you miniumal to build, and maintain.
once a year overhaul, and all is good..;)
the whole idea of racing is to have fun , and not speed too much money...
the way a converter works, is the torque multiplication , when the input shaft ( engine rpm) , isalot more than the output shaft ( drive shaft rpm)..
this helps move the 'load' ( the race car)
at under 1900 lbs, i believe you would be lighter, faster, 'richer' with a glide.
even tho you live away from usa, and australia, getting a good converter will be easy.this is the key to keeping the transmission oil cool...good quality converter.
they can build converters now days to be as fast as clutch promod cars..
why not take advantage of that technolgy ??
a powerglide as listed above will not cost an arm or leg, and be cheaper , stronger than a C4.

hope this helps..
regards
 

XR8tt

Moderator
Yep Powerglide takes some beating.. They don't seem to shock the tyres like a 3 speed can .... As said it's all in converter..Final drive and tyre dia...
It's what I'm fitting up into similar weight car...
With turbo tho...
 
I hired a Thai mechanic, Khun Somchai, to help me remove the broken transmission today.


Somchai did all the heavy lifting and back-breaking work. I am old now.


The transmission was very reluctant to be taken out from the bottom . . . with the motor still in . . . but we did it.


This is the drive ring I had made to correctly space the torque converter to the transmission input shaft splines.


The supercharged 1UZ race motor is just sitting there . . . raring to race . . . . but noooo . . . . more delays!


I am continually amazed at the cars that turn up in Thailand. This very nice 455 TransAm ran a respectable 14.20 e.t.
 
I am leaning very strongly to getting a race powerglide and high stall converter now. I believe the old addage, "You don't know what enough is until you have had too much," is true: I have reached the horsepower limit of what a Toyota A342 can take . . . without modifications that are more expensive than a race powerglide of greater strength.
 
Is this in my future? A Neil Racing Bracket Powerglide? And a Neil Chance torque converter? Maybe. The cool thing is that Dellow Automotive (Australia) makes a bellhousing for a"Toyota Lexus V8 4.0L to powerglide (with detachable housing)" . . . . . hhmmmmmm . . . . . looks like a lot of features for the money . . . . and they have an Australian dealer ([email protected]) . . . . . I have e-mailed them to see if this 'cut down' powerglide fits the Dellow bell . . . of if they make them in the 'detached' Australian powerglide case to fit the Dellow bell . . .


BRACKET GLIDE
$1000.00


The Bracket Racing Powerglide Transmission is recommended for cars making up to 850 hp. Recommended torque converter is the NCRC 8" or 9" weld together model (part #3406 or #3409).
Features:

  • OEM Powerglide case
  • 1.76 Planetary
  • 7 Hi Gear Raybestos Clutchs
  • 7 Hi Gear Raybestos Steels
  • Steel, lightweight hub
  • High gear drum machined for roller bearing to omit factory thrust washer
  • Standard band with extra thick high energy lining
  • Rebuilt pump with new gears
  • New billet stator tube
  • Stator side is machined with a stone not a lathe to ensure perfectly straight surface
  • M-300 input shaft with 2 Year replacement warranty
  • Assembled with coated bushings
  • Billet dual ring servo
  • Billet servo cover
  • Universal shift lever with provisions for Hurst, B&M, and Turbo Action shifters
  • Neal Transmission transbrake with nickel plated transbrake valve w/Choice of Pro Tree or Bracket Tree brake
  • Deep aluminum cast pan
  • - 6 AN Steel cooler fittings
  • Assembled with all new hardware, no factory bolts used
  • Comes with complete plug kit to seal all openings
  • Painted gloss black with aluminum accents
  • Choice of factory bellhousing or machined for Ultrabell (Ultrabell not included)
  • No parts in our Bracket Glide have been used in any racing application
  • Free t-shirt with purchase, please specify size with order
Options:

  • Neal Pro Trans brake add $50.00
  • Machined for J & W Ultra Bell, add $50.00
 

stevechumo

Active Member
I am leaning very strongly to getting a race powerglide and high stall converter now. I believe the old addage, "You don't know what enough is until you have had too much," is true: I have reached the horsepower limit of what a Toyota A342 can take . . . without modifications that are more expensive than a race powerglide of greater strength.
I've been using the SC rebuilt tranny, which is A341 (I believe) and it's been running great although I overboosted to 20 psi sometimes. I use IPT Red Eagle rebuilt kit with the shift kit.
 
stevechumo > I don't doubt for a minute that the A340 series transmission can be made strong enough for my application - there are several companies that build them. My problem is getting quality mechanical work done in Thailand on a consistent basis - when I do not have the time or expertise to do it myself. The difference is shipping to Thailand a built-up US$3000.oo A340 transmission (or US$2000.oo in kit parts) or a US$1000.oo race powerglide transmission that is good to 850hp, proven/reliable, and will be faster/more consistent in my racing combination. I tend to believe ALL the reports from contributors of this site: some break transmissions at 500hp, some don't; some break rods at 500hp and some don't; some melt pistons at 1 bar, some don't -- they are all telling the truth.
 
I just spoke with Jeff Dellow at Dellow Automotive in Australia and the news was good: the detached Australian and "machined-off bell" USA powerglide both bolt up to the Dellow 1UZ-to-powerglide bell housing. Their bell housing uses the pump bolts to mount the glide. Now, my next decision is where to source my trans and racing converter: Australia or the USA. Any recommendations for a good race powerglide and converter source in Australia? I have e-mailed Michael at MV Automatics downunder already. The shipping would be less from Australia to Bangkok.
 
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