serpentine idler pulley

[brit_lex]

My left and right idler pulleys were changed but the serpentine idler pulley is very noisy and I would like to change it myself. The mechanic said it's not that difficult. Anyone ever done this before? Is there a tutorial somewhere around?

How difficult is it to do?
Thanks..

 

[Zuffen]

This is dead easy.

The idler has a left hand thread so think before you undo it.

The bearing is a very common model.

Check this forum there is a thread that tells you what it is (I don't remember and haven't looked).

This is a half hour job.

You need to drive the old bearing out of the pulley and insert the new one,

Word of worning. The new one meeds to be pressed in (you can do it in a normal vice) but be sure you only apply pressure on the outer race of the bearing. If you press it in using the inner race you will damage the bearing surface and it will not be obvious straight away but in a month you will "hear" about it.

 

[brit_lex]

Thanks Zuffen. I will give that a go.

 

[Lextreme II]

all you need is a 14 mm socket to release the idler belt tension.... Take less than 1 minute for me...

 

[rpk2012]

where do you get a bearing? If I get it out, I would like to already have the bearing.

 

[hypronet]

if you can get the spec's of the bearing, check out your local bearing supplier, they will have everything there an will be cheaper then going to toyota

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[JBrady]

OLD thread...

BUT...

I just had my accessory drive belt tensioner bearing fail.

Without a bearing available to R/R I called the local auto parts and they sold the assembly for $60.

When I got there and watched the screen I noticed just the pulley was available for $28.

Both sold under the Dayco brand. Both made right here in the USA^^^

No brainer right??? WRONG???

Same pulley OD, same bearing size, correct in NEARLY every way BUT...

The OEM pulley has a concave shape while the Dayco is flat. The OEM uses a concave washer design than centers itself and clamps the inner bearing race to the tensioner assembly leaving the pulley in place on the bearing. The Dayco shape interferes with the OEM washer locking the PULLEY in place. Upon startup the pulley did not rotate... the belt slipped over the pulley

Thankfully I noticed immediately and turned off the engine.

The washer would work with the pulley flipped over but the pulley doesn't fit the tensioner this way.

I looked at the Dayco full assembly and its pulley was slightly smaller in diameter. It would not fit the stock tensioner. Changing the entire tensioner is a PITA compared to the pulley and I prefer the Lexus engineered part anyway.

I was able to SOLVE this problem with a stainless steel washer, 17mm ID, 29mm OD, 3mm thick. The same spec washer with a smaller ID to fit the retaining bolt may be a better choice as I had to secure the washer with a couple tiny pieces of masking tape so it would locate properly. I used the above washer WITH the factory washer.

Hopes this saves someone the headache I just relieved...

NOW, if anyone has the correct bearing specs please post it.