Reverse Alternator Mount

[Lextreme II]

I am strongly thinking of putting two turbos into the AC and Alternator position. I have been driving last summer without AC and I know I will survive without it. I am repositioning the alternator backward so I have room to put in a turbo on the left side. One of the alternator hole is installed into the current top pulley with a spacer. I am currently making a L bracket to mount the other part of the alternator.

The bracket is being CNC this week and will have more progress next week or so. Here are some pictures and please let me know what you guys think. Third to the last picture demonstrate the mounting bracket. The L bracekt will stablize the other mount hole. The last two pictures show how room available when AC and Alternator are removed.

 

[Death By Bass]

isnt it going to be turning the wrong way though?

 

[Lextreme II]

What I found out alternator is not directional. As long as it spins, it will produce electricity.

 

[Cobra]

Only problem is the cooling fins are turning in the wrong direction.

 

[Lextreme II]

Thanks Cobra,

I am going to have the alternator made with reverse fan blades. If that is not possible, perhaps I can get other maker like Honda or something that spin in the opposite direction. Thanks for Puredrift here is a good article on Honda counter clockwise engine rotation. However, I would still prefer a modified 1uzfe alternator making it easy for electrical plug.

Also this picture.

 

[Zuffen]

The direction the alternator will spin depends on if you use the ribbed side of the belt or the smooth side.

I think you need to look at the way you will run the belt around all the pulleys so you can then ascertain the direction the alternator will spin.

It would be a shame to build a special alternator only to build it the wrong way.

 

[Lextreme II]

Took my altenator today to my guy and they said the blade is part of the core and they were unable to to reverse the blade. However, he stated heat should not be a major issue. I also changing my mounting position. I just deleted the hydralic pulley and the hydralic pump and allow alot more room. Here are some pictures.

Hydralic system deleted

Alternator mounted right into the hydralic pulley position

Its a perfect fit right at the original hydralic pulley position.

 

[cjsupra90]

I have done this in the past on an Austin Heley Bug Eye Sprite V8 swap a few years ago. It worked great. No ALT over heating issues to speek of.

In case anyone is wondering why dave has discovered that spin direction is of no importance on an alternator is because an alternator generates AC currect (or known as alternating currect). The stator generates the same AC current regardless of which direction the rotor (armature) spins. It uses a rectifier to convert it to DC (direct current). It is far more effiecent to produce AC and rectify it to DC then it is to produce DC directly. This is why they are called alternators (alternating currect) where as back in the day, they were called generators which produced DC directly. Because of its ineffiecency, it requiers an extremely large generator to produce the amperage needed for modern cars.

 

[cjsupra90]

The question that I have is how are you going to deal with the tensioner and or belt tension in general.

 

[Lextreme II]

There are two ways the belt can run. Once I mounted the alternator then I would have a better picture. However, the second method looks pretty good. Good belt contact on most of the pulleys and tensioner we be tested when the alternator is stablized.

Here is a picture of the alternator bracket. The second hole of the alternator will be mounted into the orginal hydralic oil pressure sensor position.

 

[cjsupra90]

The ALT bracket Pic is not working.

I am really interested in seeing how you plan to route the belt. I can not seem to picture anyway of routing it and being about to utilize the tensioner because of its clockwise/ upward rotation to apply tension. I dont know, I am probably just missing something here, ( it has been a long day for me).

 

[Lextreme II]

Ok,

Finally got the laser cut adaptor plate for the reversal alternator bracket. Its a beautiful piece and measurements are perfect. I am getting good at this. LOL... I also get an allen bolt 20 mm with 1.5 mm pitch and about 18 mm long. This bolt takes place of the hydralic oil pressure sensor. Here are some pictures. I will be getting a modified belt soon. I stopped by Kragen but they didn't have the proper size so I will visit other auto shops for the proper fit.

 

[V8Supra]

I'm really interested in watching this one as I've pulled appart the front of my engine a few times, and currently not running an A/C compressor.

I'm trying to get my head around the pics. Can you describe the route that the belt will take?

Will it be, crank -> Alternator -> PS pump -> tensioner -> crank. or will there be 1 or two idler pulleys between the alternator and the PS pump?

The pics in the first post looks like the alternator is positioned higher and won't need any extra idlers.

I might do a quick search to see if engines without hydrollic fans have different belt configurations. Mine is like this one http://lextreme.com////forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2641&d=1137459166 Looks like the belt would hardly touch the crank pulley on that angle

 

[Lextreme II]

There are two routes I can take. I forgot the order of looping but the one with more contact would have problem with the tensioner not having any effects. The second route is alot short and have slightly less pulley contact but tensioner works like a charm. In both situation the top pulley is deleted along with the hydralic pulley in SC400 or fan pulley in the LS400. I should have the new belt in a couple of days.

 

[Lextreme II]

Ok,

Got sometime this morning and I also create an additional pulley. I search all over the web for the proper size but no such luck. I even contacted Dayco and they dont make any pulley smaller then 2.25". The space where this pulley is located can only have about 1.5". Guess where I got this pulley? Yup... you are right. I use one of the timing belt tensioner pulley. Its a perfect size. With a spacer and little machining its a perfect fit. As for the belt, I am using 62" Part number (Gates Micro V) K060620 but you can use 62.5" also. Its a perfect fit. Here are some pictures

 

[V8Supra]

Thats bloody brilliant! You've done it again David

... are you sure it needs the extra pulley? It won't be enough contact on the alternator you think?

 

[Zuffen]

David,

Great minds must think alike.

I'm using a timing belt idler in my belt run.

Big, strong and free.

 

[Lextreme II]

Thank you mates,

If you see it in person its alot nicer then the pictures. The timing belt pulley can fit but very tight so i use a grinder with a 8 mm bolt in the center. I grind it in an angle, as the grind turns, the pulley turns too. So it acts as a lathe. Works wonder. It an extra is not use it is still be ok.

Without the extra pulley, the alternator and crank pulley get about 25% of contact. With pulley its gets between 80-90% of contact. I am also very happy with the alternator bracket too. If you guys need a piece please me know. I have the drawing.

From this picture:

What do you see? Use your imagination. How about a supercharger in the place of the alternator? Yes, I have been thinking using a Procharger D1SC in the position of the alternator. Do you think it would work? If I have a Procharger I would like to mock fit it. Perhaps I can take out my Procharger F1SC (same externally demension as P1SC and D1SC).

Its pretty interesting how this pulley fits like a glove (with minor grinding). It clears the tensionor housing (rear needs to grind out about 1/8") and the front also need to grind about 1/8" to clear the alternator housing. Secondly, due to the small size (tensioner pulley for the timing belt is smaller then the Left Hand side pulley). So with like lathe like work back and front clears very nicely.

 

[Lextreme II]

Due to the demand from some members on alternative mounting. So I turn the alternator upside to give more room for my turbo. Now its sitting higher then before. Since its higher now, the stock pulley will need to be re-install. From the higher position, the hydralic fan pulley also clears too. Therefore not mod to the hydralic system at all.

Here are some pictures.

 

[Lextreme II]

Here is the comparision of route A and B. Its depending on your application. Both will work

Route A: Belt length 62" Part number (Gates Micro V) K060620

Route B: Belt length 66" Part number (Gates Micro V) K060660