R154 to 1uz-fe adapter plate

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
the brief i gave myself when designing these was to make the manufacturing process as simple as possible, with a minimal number of steps, and most importantly, to assume that the end user didnt have access to lathes/mills/cnc equipment.

certainly people with access to that equipment can start to incorporate more sophisticated steps in the process. ill include things like chuck mounting tabs on further revisions to give folks that option i guess.

dowel bushes would still be a whole heap easier!
 
Ed, I understand and agree with you that the dowel bushing would be easier, but thats assuming that the holes in the bell housing are accurate enough. The holse are casted in so how accurate could they be? I just hate to see people cut corners and destroy a trans cause of it. The way I see it is if you have a way to get it cut out, then you have a way to get it machined.... You dont do machine work to an engine in your garage with hand tools now do you???
 

Attachments

  • front cover.jpg
    front cover.jpg
    15.7 KB · Views: 27
You dont do machine work to an engine in your garage with hand tools now do you???

lol, yes!

engine_build_oct08_00001.jpg

no no, more seriously though, i doubt a combination of 6 large dia doweled holes would allow the centreline indexing to be out by much at all, but point taken, it is an unaccounted for variable, so putting your mind to rest on it requires a leap of faith.

im just in the process of adding lugs for a lathe chuck so you can turn on the shoulder as you described earlier.

i guess each person needs to decide how far theyre prepared to go with the manufacture of the design. ive just spent my time indexing the damn holes!
 
you make it yourself (or rather send the design for direct upload to a water jet cutter) and save yourself several hundred dollars
 
Are you sugesting an adapter to bolt the 7M R154 bellhousing to the back of a UZ???? If so then your gonna run into problems as you will then be pushing the trans back by the thickness of the adapter which will pull the input shaft out of the spigot bearing... Remember, the input is matched to the bellhousing and by adding an adapter to the front of the bell, you are effectively lengthining the bellhousing but still leaving the input shaft the same length, so whats happening, you are pushing the input shaft back thus pulling out and away from the the crank spigot...

There is no reason why you cant do an adapter between the UZ auto bellhousing and the trans and still keep your same clutch. Why do you think you would have to get another clutch setup?????


hm ok i think i understand something completly wrong...:tapedshut:

ok all i need is an bellhousing (1UZ), my supra clutch, the flywheel (from supra runner?), the cluth mechanism (witch one?) and the adaptor(between the tranny and de UZ housing) right?
 
ok all i need is an bellhousing (1UZ), my supra clutch, the flywheel (from supra runner?), the cluth mechanism (witch one?) and the adaptor(between the tranny and de UZ housing) right?

all of the above is correct, but you forgot to add a clutch disengagement mechanism (as the auto bellhousing obviously doesnt have one... being an auto and all that)

options in this regard are:
- weld in a pivot point for a std throwout bearing and fork
- more easily, purchase a hydraulic throwout bearing unit like tilton/howe/volvo oem/jeep oem etc etc
 
76mm from gearbox face to end of pivot ball. I use a 2002 Camry flywheel (ring gear needs to be flipped) with a Heavy Duty V6 4runner clutch and fork. Spigot bearing is a common 6002 bearing. Even hydraulics are standard Toyota. And this is with making an adaptor plate from a photo before the drawings posted were available
 
ok so does anyone have the correct thickness for this adapter? planning on sending it to the cutters soon > 30 mm or 40mm or what material do people recommend? cheers
 
The auto bellhousing needs to be spaced out 30mm.

Now whether you use a 30mm piece of material and machine it flat, or whether you use a 35mm piece of material and machine a 5mm lip its up to you.
 


Top