Offroad use?

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

tostitos

New Member
Messages
16
Location
Tennessee
o7nbjc.jpg

+ 1UZFE = stupid or smart? Chevy and GM crate engines cost a lot of money, and it's really attractive to have the potential of having a nice v8 engine in a railbuggy for under a grand. Don't hold back and tell me if I'm being dumb. I need that sometimes.

PS: Nice forum, if one of those engines ends up in my garage I can see myself spending a lot of time here. ;]

(not my ride btw, my frame is still on order. it's a nice picture of a clean rail so I used it for a visual guide.)

(edit: this might belong in the offroad forum but I'd be driving it on pavement most of the time.)
 

Attachments

  • stylus.jpg
    stylus.jpg
    60.7 KB · Views: 1
  • 1ufze.jpg
    1ufze.jpg
    67.6 KB · Views: 0
Whilst there isn't much weight advantage over the LS1 the cost advantage is immense.

You could replace the 1UZ 5 or 6 times for the price of 1 LS1 crate engine.

I would expect a good standard 1UZ to outlast an LS1 given it would be subject to wild variations in revs due to jumping the vehicle and driving in sand etc.

I use a 1UZ off road and the torque spread and ability to rev the engine in lieu of an upshift on a short straight is bliss. I will say they are short on torque compared to an LS1 but that rail would weight less than 700kg all up so the torque problem pales a little.

I'd love a 1UZ powered sand buggy to complement my Range Rover.
 
i'm with Rod - DO IT DO IT DO IT! i said do it dammit or by god there'll be hell to pay.... :biglaugh:

the lesser torque would really only effect top speed - but then how much does a buggy weigh?!?! 4.0L in something like that would still hammer hard - add a turbo or supercharger kit from folk off this forum for more poke and it would be an animal - all for less than an LS1 crate motor too.
 
Nice frame!

I'm definitely going to get an 1UZFE if I can find one. Does anyone have any advice for getting them used, such as from a wreck? I've searched through the forums a few times on this but I'll try harder after making this post.

What do you guys think of nitrous for this project, with no other serious performance mods aside from custom exhaust (which will be necessary) and maybe a nice air filter and fuel pump?

Here's some pictures of my ultimate inspiration for suspension and overall look: (am getting the closest possible civilian frame)

2151799eq.jpg

2153164ie.jpg

2153293mw.jpg


The side skirts and third seat might not show up for a while though, also would like to have fatter tires in back.

Extremely low mass vehicles are often penalized by poor suspension design. Just the opposite approach is necessary in order to bring out the natural handling capabilities of a low mass vehicle. Whereas a high mass vehicle has greater inherent stability, a low mass vehicle has greater inherent agility and handling precision. These natural characteristics can be degraded by poor design, or they can be enhanced by good design. Use the following general guidelines with low mass vehicles.

Use the fully-laden weight for performance and handling calculations.
Keep unsprung weight to a minimum. Consider a simplified suspension design, and use lightweight alloys or plastic composites for springs and structural members.
Keep the center of gravity as low as possible. Correct cg location is especially important in low mass vehicles, and even more so in three wheel designs.
The center of gravity should be ahead of the wheelbase mid-point of a four wheel platform, and no farther than 35 percent of the wheelbase from the side-by-side wheels of a three wheeler.
The tread should be as wide as possible and the wheelbase as long as possible within the constraints of the vehicle package. Locate wheels at each of the extreme corners of the vehicle.
Use a fully independent suspension, and keep the contact patch location stable (minimal lateral movement).
Eliminate suspension and steering geometry errors. Go the extra mile for precession.
Establish the roll center according to the vehicle cg. If the cg is extremely low, the roll center may be at, or near ground level. The roll moment should be lower for extremely low mass vehicles.
Roll stiffness is essential for a low mass vehicles. If the vehicle understeers, place the anti-roll bar at the rear. If it oversteers, place the anti-roll bar at the front.
For increased traction, use wider rims and/or wider tires.
A torsionally rigid platform (frame) is essential for precise handling characteristics.
At freeway speeds, aerodynamic effects will be an important consideration, and aerodynamic effects increase as weight decreases. Consequently, the aerodynamic center of pressure should be as close as possible to the vehicle center of gravity. Eliminate lift, keep ground clearance minimal, angle the body slightly downward at the front.
 
It's a drug, well almost.

I started with a vw motor & some steam pipe and finished up with a twin turbo Mazda rotary with metanol injection in a full race frame. At full noise on landing it would spin the tyres off the rims.

If I were doing it again with a 1UZ for fun and not race I would mid mount the engine.

Awsome fun and you start smiling before you crank the engine.

The 3 seater looks more like a shooting buggie with what looks like vw type 3 motor.

I'll try to find some old pics.

Great project and let that mud fly.
 
I really want to replicate that build to the best of my abilities.. so rear mount is my only choice. Might result in a lot of wheelies, though. ;\
 
I love your sandrails guys they look built and ready to rip...

I think the 1UZ-FE engine would be a great choice and is very reliable and durable. The 4.0 liter size block with the dual over head cams makes for the engine to produce close to 300bhp on a sandrail...with a good exhaust and intake setup. Not bad on something as light as sandrails... You can kick up sand 20 feet high with a good 1UZ.. and some cup tires. I use to own a sandrail with a built 350 Chevy in it, and it hauled. The 1UZ-FE would definetely be my first choice for the money.
 
Might have to stick a broken VW engine in it when I trailer it to the DMV.. I believe in my state vehicles under 1500lbs can be street legal without fenders..
I'd better be prepared to gut an entire Toyota for this, right? Because I've read that even on cheap donor engine swaps, you end up sinking a lot into transmission, radiator, etc and it would be best to just take it all out.
 
Engine, ECU & maybe the radiator is probably all you will be able to use.

Most cheaper buggies use VW bus transaxles which will need a lot of money spent on it to keep it in one piece before you even start to think LSD or locker.

The long travel suspension and brakes are fairly easy to buy and the front ends are usually available as bolt on units. Contact your local off road race club somebody may have some bits around.

If you can score a good s/h race transmission and work out how to bolt the 1UZ to it your on a home run to a weapon of mass distruction.

Get googling

hope this helps
 
I've been googling enough that I'm thinking of signing up as one of their "search consultants" specializing in offroad buggies. ;)

the one thing that has me worried is transmission and gearbox. what's a "s/h", not familiar with that abbreviation?

and the one useless cosmetic thing (on the inevitable bank of 'armed' switches for things like *cough cough* wired in 12 volt cellphone killer *cough cough snort* will be this and it's shiftknob companion: http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Interior/nitro_switch.htm

You're not so far off with this weapon of mass destruction name for it :p
 
well i started out with an old VW motor in an old shi**er frame. currently i have an old "outlaw" racing frame from the 80's with long travel suspension and a 18RGEU fuel injected twincam... nice but still not enough. so for christmas i bought a 1UZ from a soarer UZZ31... its my next project... i love these motors all i want to do now is supercharge it i haventr even started the motor and i want more power (whats with that???)

cheers
phill
 
My baby... 4ag20v, VW trans
04Rnd1_2214.jpg


The death of my baby...
crash_02.jpg


Check out the shape of the bottom rail.... banana'ed...

My new baby! Renault UN5 trans, rear mount 20v... but only for one year...
1u mid mount N/A is on the way! Got some research to do... :)

wolf_233.jpg

I know heaps about putting strange motors to strange trans... esp vw and renault. any q's, Im happy to help.
 
Man that sandrail wrapped around that tree looks painful, any injuries? Have you ever rolled one going straight up a hill, front over end?
 
Naa - no serious injuries. Headaches, backaches, bruising etc, but nothing severe. As for accidents - we're Aussie desert racers, not dune runners. Our big ones very rarely go end for end... we tend to hit bloody big trees instead!
 
That's a great looking LT! Looks like I'm not the only one who would rather go in the woods and wildlands than sand dunes.

Any advice when the time comes to fit a 1U into a VW trans (I'm thinking a T4 might be strong enough) will be greatly welcome.. rear engine placement might get tricksy but it's my favorite option.
 
Will help where I can, though talking to a VW box expert today he reckons that the torque will kill it, no matter what you do with it...

My suggestion if you're determined though - Use and 1800 or 2ltr case and drop in all albins gears, superdiff, supernut, quad sun gears, case strengthening plates front and rear, min 200mm flywheel recentred with 1UZ bolt pattern, puck clutch, remanufactured diaphram, plus the adaptor. All up... about 5 to 6k Aus$.

My suggestion, drop the VW and go Renault UN5. about the same price when finished, an extra 15kg heavier, an extra 150mm longer, but much stronger.

Adaptor stuf is the same (redrilled centre etc) however, the stock diff should hold up (its 8" stock), standard gears should also hold up with a stock 1UZ, if you're getting excited with motor though, aftermarket 1st and 2nd will be required (and will improve ratio's) and you'll end out with a 5spd, not 4. They are a bit harder to find though, so expect to pay a bit more for the stocker to start with. Best to call wreckers in france and have it shipped.

Im running 31" BFG Mudders on my unit and first gear with a stock box is ridiculously too low. We're going with all aftermarket gears and short ratios and keeping the stock diff. It's geared for 225km/h at 8,000rpm in top.

Hope it helps!
 


Top