my 1uz mk3 project

[taka21]

so i decided to ditch my power steering in favor of the looped rack idea. only issue is that im running the hydraulic fan the belt routing is gonna be interesting

 

[taka21]

update

ok so i broke a few things and removed a few things and found some cool solutions
first up that power steering thing, first i removed the ps pump and looped the lines which was ok for a little while but got very old very fast
so i went the flying miata route and made myself a fully depowered steering rack , and its is a day and night difference so much lighter and more responsive and MUCH EASIER TO TURN THAN THAT LOOPED LINE CRAP!!!

next up i removed all the lines and junk associated with the ps system and the ac system
all gone

now i just switched to an electric fan setup and ditched the hydraulic pump altogether im still in the process of this one cause those four bolts seem to go through the water pump to bolt to the block so im gonna go find some shorter bolts tomorow and see how that works out

next up on the fabrication list is a proper battery mount for this beast inside the rx7 seat bins that i installed (very functional)

 

[4U2QUIK]

flying miata? not familiar with the mods those silly people do.

 

[taka21]

flying miata? not familiar with the mods those silly people do.

ok so basically you take the ps rack and completely disassemble it
then you take the center section out and cut the main seal out its a metal ring and you have to be careful not to cut into the center section
then remove the rest of the seals (wich slide right off)
then you take the pinion gear housing and take all the hydraulic components off till you are left with just the pinion gear and the big bearing
since the pinion gear has a mm or two of twist (to assist in the direction change) you weld it at that point and so you dont get any slop in the steering
next you grease the pinion gear and the rack gear teeth and re assemble the rack
once its reassembled the trick is to back off the tensioning nut about 3/4 of a turn so that the steering effort gets lighter, dont go too far with this as you will not have enough tension to keep the pinion on the rack and you will end up with sloppy steering
so just play with it to dial it in to your liking

it works great for me i even added a set of 5mm spacers i made on the tie rods for more steering angle

 

[4U2QUIK]

and now that it's not a power rack you can get away with the spacers without worrying about tearing the seals and leaking.

 

[JustenGT8]

ok so basically you take the ps rack and completely disassemble it
then you take the center section out and cut the main seal out its a metal ring and you have to be careful not to cut into the center section
then remove the rest of the seals (wich slide right off)
then you take the pinion gear housing and take all the hydraulic components off till you are left with just the pinion gear and the big bearing
since the pinion gear has a mm or two of twist (to assist in the direction change) you weld it at that point and so you dont get any slop in the steering
next you grease the pinion gear and the rack gear teeth and re assemble the rack
once its reassembled the trick is to back off the tensioning nut about 3/4 of a turn so that the steering effort gets lighter, dont go too far with this as you will not have enough tension to keep the pinion on the rack and you will end up with sloppy steering
so just play with it to dial it in to your liking

it works great for me i even added a set of 5mm spacers i made on the tie rods for more steering angle

Good info.

No concerns that the pinion shaft isn't very strong? When i went to do the same on the WRX steering rack i used in the celica i was advised not to by the engineer as the power rack steering shafts are much thinner than a manual rack and could fail?

 

[Supra967]

It's a pretty solid bar in the supra, over 20mm from memory.

 

[taka21]

Good info.

No concerns that the pinion shaft isn't very strong? When i went to do the same on the WRX steering rack i used in the celica i was advised not to by the engineer as the power rack steering shafts are much thinner than a manual rack and could fail?

yea its really thick, and i also put a nice bead of weld in the seams for good measure, also makes the pinion shaft solid (so no steering slop)

 

[taka21]

ok so im now rockin a toyota tundra alternator, 130 amps

 

[4U2QUIK]

niceeeeeeeee

 

[taka21]

another update
i finished up my true cold air intake

 

[4U2QUIK]

update is worthless without pics....... j/k

 

[taka21]

update is worthless without pics....... j/k

ill post up pics of the bay and mods after i solve my 14v issue
cause i dont think ill be satisfied enough to show pics till then lol

currently i just made the tensioner a ribbed one using the 7m waterpump pulley. its a mod i fount over on toymods by ed
its pretty cool but it dosent solve all of my issue, i think the belt needs to be tighter still and im waiting for a pic of the L bracket used to manually crank up on the tensioner

 

[taka21]

ok so i decided to clean up my engine bay wiring the thought was to remove un nessesary 7m wiring left over from the swap and loom up all the swap wiring so i can show ppl my work without the embarassing great swap but that wiring sux scenario

so since i dont have ac or anything relating to it i decided the ac relays next to the fusebox could go, they are gone and are the only thing i actually removed from the bay.
i made a new engine ground and ran it to the igniter bracket and made a tab for the other half dozen grounds im running and it all looks decent
but...
now the car doesnt remember its idle it has to re learn it every time i start the car
yaaaaaaaaaaay gremlins

 

[Yotarip]

now the car doesnt remember its idle it has to re learn it every time i start the car
yaaaaaaaaaaay gremlins

Does it stall immediatley after starting? Then after holding the throttle or driving for a while it idles fine?

The ecu needs a permament +12 source from the battery. If you wired in the constant +12 during the swap, you may have accidently cut the power source during your wiring cleanup.

 

[taka21]

Does it stall immediatley after starting? Then after holding the throttle or driving for a while it idles fine?

The ecu needs a permament +12 source from the battery. If you wired in the constant +12 during the swap, you may have accidently cut the power source during your wiring cleanup.

i will recheck the wiring but i didnt remove anything but the magnetic ac relays and they were just unpluged and unbolted from under the fusebox.

and the symptoms are that it wont idle at all then i hold the throttle and then it idles at like 400 after a long drive then it still tries to die out at a stop light then randomly it will idle up at like 720 or so but it goes away when i get on the gas and dies out again at the next stop light

 

[Yotarip]

That's funny because yesterday my 1uz just randomly died at 2 stoplights yesterday!! Restarted right up but the idle was very low. It ran fine this morning with no issues. I recommend you check the idle air valve.

 

[taka21]

lmao blew a fuse and the ignitors werent getting power lol
so now i fixed that and im hoping that re setting my tps will do the trick and make it idle properly, as it is far too low at the moment around 450 to 520

 

[taka21]

ok i read on here that someone made a way to bypass the iacv completely im looking into this route

 

[sideshow]

sounds like wiring problem or faulty iac
if u r running std ecu u are going backwards removing iac
they work perfect when everything else is right
removing it is a dodgey cure not a proper fix