Kelford cams need to know

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Rozu

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Hello everyone,
My name is Jordan and I am new to Lextreme. I’ve owned my sc400 for a year now and I’d like to modify it and get a little bit more power out of it. I was wondering what I should know about the Kelford cams and the valve springs. Is there anything else I need while I’m taking apart the top end?
 
Hi Rozu,
I've used Crow cams and found them to be a waste of money. Struggle to get a good idle and decent power gains. I now use Kelford cams and springs with much much better results. The thing you will need to be aware of is that the cams will come as billets, so you will need to remove the gears from you old cams and fit to the new cams. From memory you will also need to notch the scissor gears (using a die grinder or similar) so the gears will go over the larger cam lobes. Do this on the opposite side of the key way. This will all make sense once you attempt to reassemble the inlet cams.
 
As for valve springs Kelford's are best to advise you that.

I used their cams on my supercharged engine and was very happy with them.
 
Hello everyone,
My name is Jordan and I am new to Lextreme. I’ve owned my sc400 for a year now and I’d like to modify it and get a little bit more power out of it. I was wondering what I should know about the Kelford cams and the valve springs. Is there anything else I need while I’m taking apart the top end?
Iv done kelford cams with no head work they were fine
 
Iv done kelford cams with no head work they were fine
Yes, If you are installing new cams for a power gain you shouldn't waste any potential gain; so spend the time to degree them in and shim them correctly. When dismantling, set the engine up at No.1 TDC and take a picture of the cam gear positions and the crank gear. Buy and fit a new good quality cam belt and maybe idlers and tensioner. Go out and buy two digital dial gauges with stands (or borrow) and a large degree wheel. You will find that the cam belt will exhibit about 3 - 4 crank degrees of stretch when degreeing in the cams. Set dial gauges up on No.1 & 6 and check / verify cam specs. My right cam was retarded about 2 degrees. The left was spot on. Aim for +/- 1 thou for shim clearance. Don't turn the engine over backwards when indexing cams and use a long bar for turning the crank during the process. This gives you better control over small movements. The engine will most likely now be interference so if your going to rotate the new installed cams make sure the pistons are down the bores otherwise there maybe the potential to force a valve open against a pistion. Buy new shims if needed. http://www.precisionshims.com.au/. 1) Install cams, 2) shim, 3) index. Remember take your time. Its an easy process if you think about what your doing and plan for the job. PS. I used a little XL spready to calculate my new shims. Good luck. Kelford cams work well and the guys over in NZ (Josh) are good support if needed.
 


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