info request; doing my homework on mkii swap

[Peewee]

Also I have a friend who's doing the same swap in a MKII and the tranny was 2inch further to the front of the car. You should need a thinner brake booster, hammer the tunnel (1UZ bell is too big) and the firewall for head clearance to make the tranny fit where it was in the first place.

Actually the reason for pushing the motor 2" forward is for the sump to clear the crossmember.
If you want the gearbox to sit in the stock position then you'll NEED a custom sump (or heavily modded stock one).
I don't believe there would be issues with the brake booster or tunnel, but as its not possible to test mount the engine with the gearox in the factory position (unless you've removed the sump), its not something I'm completely sure on.

take out the Supra lines and get them adapted to use -AN or JIC fittings. I did JIC with mine although I want to switch them over to -AN now instead. This gives you the ability to keep the hard lines in place and just unscrew the high pressure rubber lines if they go bad.

Unless the US Supra is different, then the stock lines will bolt up to the 1UZ PS pump with mods.
Although re-reading your post you could be talking about modding them to make it easier to replace in the future.

BTW glad to hear you're considering using my motor mounts.

I'm 99% sure the early MK3 mounts unfortunately don't fit the MK2, however I'm happy to be proven wrong!

 

[cribbj]

I have never heard of the flex plate being sandwiched in between the flywheel and crank, this also sounds like a bad idea.

Mike, it's not a bad idea at all, and it's commonly called a button flywheel here in the US. The first setup that was made for a 1UZ to MKIV Supra setup was like this. Several people on this board are running them now.

Tilton, Quartermaster, and others make them and it's a very clean, easy way to make a clutch flywheel combo, without the pain of trying to adapt or cut a new ring gear. Have a look on QM's or Tilton's website for more info.

 

[the ghoul]

good info! thank you all!!

I'm 99% sure the early MK3 mounts unfortunately don't fit the MK2, however I'm happy to be proven wrong!

Well I have one stud sticking from the top of my engine mounts

and these mounts have a 1 hole pattern in the pad.
also at the time I had the engine plates cut 2" longer than i needed (i was still unsure if i had to push the engine forward or not)
out of those factors (and not to make light of the process you went thru to get yours correct) I think ill be able to make something work

 

[Peewee]

The reason I say it, is that I think the early mk3 crossmember mounts are roughly at 30deg, (and the late mk3 ones at roughly 15deg), where as I know that the MA61 mounts are at 45deg.

btw, your rubber mounts are on upsidedown in that pic

 

[the ghoul]

The reason I say it, is that I think the early mk3 crossmember mounts are roughly at 30deg, (and the late mk3 ones at roughly 15deg), where as I know that the MA61 mounts are at 45deg.

btw, your rubber mounts are on upsidedown in that pic

yeah, i know, let a firend 'help' me work on the car!

yeah, no worries on the angle of the dangle. The plates i had cut are in 4 bits (engine plate, motor mount plate, and two uprights) i can cut and adjust the uprights as i need to....

im worried more about the front to back now...
I thought most people were using the mk2 trans, with front sump 1uz, and the trans in the stock location with a little bit of clearence work done to the brake booster and fire wall.

Now you guys have been talking about shifting it forward 2" to clear the cross member

I also just ran across a build where the guy is using the automatic trans support, with a MK3 trans.... No idea what drive shaft hes running at that point!

 

[Peewee]

Coz you are moving the engine/trans forward 2" you need to change the shifter positioner to the MK3 NA one. (or even use a complete MK3 NA box)
You'll also need to run an auto tranny crossmember, it lines up perfectly.

When using R154 you need to run the stock manual box crossmember.

Custom driveshafts are required for both option.
(Although an SA63 drivshaft fits almost perfectly if using a W58 - not sure if America has SA63's though?)

 

[the ghoul]

Coz you are moving the engine/trans forward 2" you need to change the shifter positioner to the MK3 NA one. (or even use a complete MK3 NA box)
You'll also need to run an auto tranny crossmember, it lines up perfectly.

When using R154 you need to run the stock manual box crossmember.

Custom driveshafts are required for both option.
(Although an SA63 drivshaft fits almost perfectly if using a W58 - not sure if America has SA63's though?)

yeah im quickly catching on....
ive seen 2 swaps done so far with the stock manual trans mount, and drive shaft but you need to clearence the fire wall and brake booster using a BFH. Cheep yes, but not clean enough for my taste (that and i dont want to hammer my freshly painted fire wall)
but yeah, what you are saying makes total sence to me and i will be tracking down the bits i need to make it happen.
thank you for the clarification...
I am unsure of the chassis codes.... what cars are the SA63's?

 

[the ghoul]

NM
sa63 Date Range: Jan 1983 to Jan 1985 celica
yeah we had them here.... bummer is im now learning that i scrapped out half of the stuff i needed to compleet this swap 3 years ago!!!!
I bought a 7mgte 87 supra and an 83 re22 celica from an old bag in the neghborhood with the intent of making a 7mgte celica.... well it turns out they were both too rotted....

ok down to it.
what drive shaft exactly do i need?
sa63 automatic, manual? front shaft, back shaft, both shafts?
please let me know
BTW
thank you again for all the help!!

 

[Peewee]

ive seen 2 swaps done so far with the stock manual trans mount, and drive shaft but you need to clearence the fire wall and brake booster using a BFH. Cheep yes, but not clean enough for my taste (that and i dont want to hammer my freshly painted fire wall)

I'm surprised people have done this, as the motor cannot physically sit with the gearbox in the stock location without severe modifications to the sump (although its not unheard of to cut large chunks out of the sump).
Although thinking about it, some people may have raised the front of the motor up a fair distance, which would allow it to go back further. Which is a dumb idea, but I won't go into that here.

SA63 manual - front half only, bolts to stock rear.

 

[the ghoul]

I'm surprised people have done this, as the motor cannot physically sit with the gearbox in the stock location without severe modifications to the sump (although its not unheard of to cut large chunks out of the sump).
Although thinking about it, some people may have raised the front of the motor up a fair distance, which would allow it to go back further. Which is a dumb idea, but I won't go into that here.

SA63 manual - front half only, bolts to stock rear.

rock!
you the man!
thank you!!

 

[milisakeracing]

Mike, it's not a bad idea at all, and it's commonly called a button flywheel here in the US. The first setup that was made for a 1UZ to MKIV Supra setup was like this. Several people on this board are running them now.

Tilton, Quartermaster, and others make them and it's a very clean, easy way to make a clutch flywheel combo, without the pain of trying to adapt or cut a new ring gear. Have a look on QM's or Tilton's website for more info.

Thanks for the info and pointers to vendors Cribb. I would have never guessed someone would do this.

 

[milisakeracing]

The reason I say it, is that I think the early mk3 crossmember mounts are roughly at 30deg, (and the late mk3 ones at roughly 15deg), where as I know that the MA61 mounts are at 45deg.

btw, your rubber mounts are on upsidedown in that pic

MkIII mounts: +89 are at 30deg. and pre-89 are at ~45deg (measured with non-calibrated angle meter, old suspension, and unknown floor slope, came out more like 48deg.). I made my pre-89 mounts for 45deg. mount points and they sat right on the mount points.

 

[milisakeracing]

NM
sa63 Date Range: Jan 1983 to Jan 1985 celica
yeah we had them here.... bummer is im now learning that i scrapped out half of the stuff i needed to compleet this swap 3 years ago!!!!
I bought a 7mgte 87 supra and an 83 re22 celica from an old bag in the neghborhood with the intent of making a 7mgte celica.... well it turns out they were both too rotted....

ok down to it.
what drive shaft exactly do i need?
sa63 automatic, manual? front shaft, back shaft, both shafts?
please let me know
BTW
thank you again for all the help!!

Also, once you get stuff running and on the road and begin thinking about a drive shaft upgrade there is a great shop over by you who make Supra drive shafts plus custom drive shafts as well. I got my 1pc. aluminum shaft from them.

Shaftmasters, Inc.
1668 John A. Papalas Dr.
Lincoln Park, MI 48146

 

[Peewee]

MkIII mounts: +89 are at 30deg. and pre-89 are at ~45deg (measured with non-calibrated angle meter, old suspension, and unknown floor slope, came out more like 48deg.). I made my pre-89 mounts for 45deg. mount points and they sat right on the mount points.

They might work with some slight mods then

 

[the ghoul]

Also, once you get stuff running and on the road and begin thinking about a drive shaft upgrade there is a great shop over by you who make Supra drive shafts plus custom drive shafts as well. I got my 1pc. aluminum shaft from them.

Shaftmasters, Inc.
1668 John A. Papalas Dr.
Lincoln Park, MI 48146

thank you so much!
i started diging into the situation (i was thinking the 1 piece drive shaft right out of the gate)
I had two thoughts
#1 rabidchimp offers a 1 piece aluminum but at a heavy tag of $450 plus 2 weeks wait
#2 i found a 22r toyota pickup in the scrap yard yesterday, i was going to pull that shaft and have it shortened...

Ill have to check these guys out though and see about a 3rd option
thank you!

 

[Peewee]

1 piece tail shaft's in MA61's are the devils work.

Just get the stock one modified.

 

[the ghoul]

1 piece tail shaft's in MA61's are the devils work.

Just get the stock one modified.

ok boss, will do !!
BTW
just test fitted the engine using the auto trans mount you suggested....
seeing it for my self, your 100% right. I dont see how any one could use the stock one without cutting into the engine cross member.
(pics are with the engine resting on the engine cross member so it looks tighter around the steering rack than it actually is.)

 

[4U2QUIK]

kinda reminds me of my friends 1uz cressida.