I need help!

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I REALLY want to know how you go with that radiator - please report back on the quality etc. If you don't install it, please ask the mechanic his opinion of it. I'm considering shipping one over in the next container from the US as a spare. I think my top tank is already starting to crack anyway.
 
Miles B said:
If the cam belt jumped a tooth, apparently it CAN cause a valve and piston to touch.

Don't ask me how, I don't know.
Not on these motors.
Infact, not on any toyota motor except the 2uz-fe

Every other motor is designed so that if the timing belt snaps, no damage is done.
 
what peewee said is correct.

even if the cam belt snaps are high rpm the pistons cannot hit any of the vavles.
i forget the technical term for this setup, but the 1UZ has it. :)
 
Not that it matters here, but the new V6 for the Sienna and some other rides is also now interference.
 
Guys, I previously thought the same as you. But Neil Griffiths told me it is possible, if the belt jumps teeth and keeps turning the cams, for valves and pistons to hit. As I said, I do not know how, or understand why. I am just going by what he told me he has *seen*. There was also a V8 on ALSC, I believe posted by Lew, that had this happen, and bent valves.

I know that when I had my belt off, I could spin the cams and crank freely and not hit. Don't ask me how it can happen, but if Neil says it can, I believe him. He knows a lot more about, and has a lot more experience with these engines, than I do.

That would be why I said "it can happen, I don't know why".
 
It was just a theory that the valves were bent - Lew hasn't seen the valves yet - they are just tossing up what happened. The water pump seized. If the engine over heated it might have seized for other reasons. Lew hasn't pulled the motor apart to tell us why it seized.
I thought Neil said he saw a Ford 4 cylinder motor hit the valves, not a 1UZ-FE.
 
I think it was a Mazda now you mention it... I dunno.. anyway my point is, I don't see it, but Neil does, and he knows more than I do, so I'm prepared to accept the possibility based on me-not-knowing-enough.
 
Miles B said:
I think it was a Mazda now you mention it... I dunno.. anyway my point is, I don't see it, but Neil does, and he knows more than I do, so I'm prepared to accept the possibility based on me-not-knowing-enough.
It is phyiscally impossible, unless you are pulling enormous revs, and you get valve bouncing, and you snap the timing belt at the same time.

Under normal valve operation, the cams do not lift the valve's enough to evr hit a piston
 
I would think exactly the same thing. I'm just relaying what I heard. My thinking would be if the belt slipped and kept the cams turning, and the engine was at or near max RPM, and it slipped exactly the right amount to have a valve max open at TDC, perhaps the piston can reach.. I do know piston/deck clearances tighten by as much as 1mm at high engine speeds, in some cases. Maybe this is what can cause it. If the belt snaps, none of the valves stay max open, and the engine can't continue to run at max RPM.
 
Re the price of a radiator...

After my pump seizure and shredded cam belt my top tank split. However, rather than a complete new radiator I got hold of a new top tank for about NZ$ 80 and had it fitted to the already good core....

Regardless of that I am pleased to hear the rebuild worked out OK

Regards,
Graham
 
I would be most alarmed if I had 1mm of stretch in my rods or valves.

I would think 0.01mm would be excessive stretch.

With sqish areas under 0.5mm this would mean the piston would hit the head by 0.5mm. Instant destruction.
 
Zuffen
the example I am talking about is a bike motor at about 10k rpm. People who are setting the squish under 0.9mm are having the pistons touch the head at redline.
 
GrahamB - My ignorant mechanic told me that no one sold the top tanks...... and that he wouldn't want to use a used one for warranty issues....

Another quick update. My radiator was supposed to have been delivered on Friday, but the radiator that they delivered was damaged, so now I have to wait until tomorrow(Monday.) On Saturady, when I drove two hours to see my car, I found that my ignition key cylinder no longer worked. It had been irksome for a while, but it just adds to the list of crap that I have to deal with. I ordered a new NON-MATCHING key& key cylinder from Lexus, and it's costing me US$134. OUCH. I'm a college student with a recently bankrupted parents budget...... I got my SC for a great price :)

Anyone have any advice for me on whether or not I made a good choice going OEM on that part?

Also, I'm having a hell of a time for my pictures to show up on my other thread...
http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1702

thanks everyone
 
Hey, and I thought you guys in the states could get anything???. Another thing I have had done is when my Ignition barrel got jammed and the key would not work was that I had a locksmith take the barrel apart and remove one of the tumblers which when assembled worked like new....cost...NZ$25 (about US$15 !!!)
Would like to see the pics of headlight job if you can work it out.

Regards,
GrahamB
 


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