hilux problems weak points

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ToyMG

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48
Location
canada
Hi there I am in the beginning of a project I'll probably regret. I was hoping that someone could give me some hope here. I have a 87 hilux 2.4l petrol wich I plan on converting to a 4l lexus I'm not conserned about the swap I've done many but where are the weak points. Transmision? diffs? i know toyota trucks are well over engineered Mine for example has 620 000km on it original starter altenator, transmition, diffs, I just put the first set of ball joints in it last year(It was IFS) The ac still blows colder than any other car I've been in.

Here are the parts I've gathered so far
tacoma (96+ hilux) TRD electrick locking diff
R151F
1uz with wiring ecu and airflow meter
flywheel from 3vz (looks like it will fit havent tried yet)

I plan on making an adaptor plate since I'm In the metal fab buisness anyway.
My question is what brakes?
I know if you drive nice nothing brakes but If I drove it nice it would still have a 22re in it
oh yeah it currently has 35in baja belted M/Ts on it but I plan on installing 38s with 5.26 gears
 
I have been looking at buying an allready converted LEXUS V8 Surf and the biggest problem the guy is having with it is front Diffs,the front diffs seem to be weak as it is and adding the grunt of the V8 just kills them,driving off road under power you just lift a front wheel and then you touch back down to earth and lock up and "crunch"...


I enquired as to a decent solid front diff for them but thus far havent had any luck,my local 4WD guy who races and does comps said that the best way to do it was go coiled at the front and get a bigger diff unit in there alltogether,and that a 4-5k job ....
 
I broke many CV axles when it was IFS but haven't broke a birfield yet(4cyl) this was the reason for the swap. I was looking at a kit that uses daNA 44 WHEEL JOINTS but haven't decided yet. I don't have a locker in the front at the moment, this also probably has something to do with the stock axels not breaking. I had a locker in the IFS
 
Longfields will fix the CV`s breaking, they can still break but only if you are fully getting it awn.

The diffs are fairly strong and will be ok if in good condition and you aren`t completly stupid with the way you put the power on. Basicly don`t stay on the gas if the rig starts to bounce, have the gears loaded up pre giving it full gas. In other words don`t go from sitting on the brake to dropping the clutch and full throttle.

Same goes for the gearbox. If you were to run the standard G52 then you need to be just that little more carefull again.

Then you have the Transfer case as well. In these the input shaft can break. Basicly to make it last its like the gear box and diff just don`t be completly silly with the loud pedal.
 


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