Help help. Just broke motor, what to do!!!???

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spdrcr771

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I just installed a new timing belt on sat, & my new s&s headers on sunday night. Had my car trailered to my exhaust shop 50mi away, got the exhaust all finished up, headed home, gettin on it alittle seein how she pulled & difference in the powerband, started to hear alittle noise started slowing down. It got louder i then pulled over. bad vibration in the motor. shut it off, go out, then started it back up, horrable noise clattering. Tow trucked it home, drained the oil, & pulled the small front pan off, looked up in bottom of the upper pan, there's chunks of metal in there. My question is do i pull my motor, tear it apart & try to fix it or do i try to buy a new short block, or do i try to buy a 04 tundra 4.7 & do the swap. If i do the swap i need to know from the experts here on exactly what im facing on the swap, mods if any. will the dome top pistons fit my vvt-i heads, stuff like that before is start spending money i dont have. This is my daily driver & im stuck. Im a paraplegic so i gotta have hand controls, which i can rent a car but thats only temp. I need a direction & i need one quick. I can get money the smaller the better, but 1500 is doable. please help me. Oh this is on a my 98 SC400
 
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I wouldn't mess with a 4.7 swap if it's your DD. I'd get another complete 1UZ motor (or long block) and have it put in.

What prompted you to change the timing belt? Was it giving you any warning signs or making noises before you changed it?

It's possible when the timing belt was installed you may have missed missed a tooth or two, or it jumped a tooth or two, in which case you've got a load of damaged valves and pistons, and the motor is toast.

That's why I'd recommend a whole motor, not just a short block. Talk to David (Lextreme), he may be able to direct you to a fairly cheap one. Where are you in the US?
 
I wouldn't mess with a 4.7 swap if it's your DD. I'd get another complete 1UZ motor (or long block) and have it put in.

What prompted you to change the timing belt? Was it giving you any warning signs or making noises before you changed it?

It's possible when the timing belt was installed you may have missed missed a tooth or two, or it jumped a tooth or two, in which case you've got a load of damaged valves and pistons, and the motor is toast.

That's why I'd recommend a whole motor, not just a short block. Talk to David (Lextreme), he may be able to direct you to a fairly cheap one. Where are you in the US?

it was just time to do it again, i did one @ 90k & now i have 175K on it. I was just tryin to get the car ready to go to the track in may, but now this. All timing & marks & everything legit. car still starts now & is in time. just something broke in the bottom. I live in arlington tx.
 
I'd still get a whole used motor from a pull. I think that'll get you up & running faster, with less headaches, IMO.

Then your old motor can be used for a "build" if you're so inclined.
 
Depending on the damage sometime it wouldnt be repairable. I have few VVTi engine with holes in the block due to broken rods. I hope that is not your case. You can also get an upgrade 4.3L shortblock and bolt into your 4.0 heads.
 
I would like to upgrade here if possible. I would like whatever i get to be stronger that stock if possible also. Do i have to buy everything brand new forged, which is alot of money. What if i get that 4.3 from david, it would be smart to go ahead & do all new bearings, rings, etc. So that at least it would be a new bottom end. That would be cheaper to go that route, & still upgrade alittle right.
 
If the UZ is low mile the minumum would be a T-belt and W-pump. If you can trust the mileage; rings, bearings ETC are not necessary unless your doing some heavy mods. If your looking for some extra grunt when doing the swap you could consider a set of headers or a set of cams. From what David has been telling me a set of cams really perform well on the VVt motors. cams + 2.25" exhaust + headers = 300whp, or 360BHP. Rods will hold this level of hp but not much more.


I just realized the 3uz block can be interchanged with with 1uz vvt block... god I love interchangeability :).
 
If the UZ is low mile the minumum would be a T-belt and W-pump. If you can trust the mileage; rings, bearings ETC are not necessary unless your doing some heavy mods. If your looking for some extra grunt when doing the swap you could consider a set of headers or a set of cams. From what David has been telling me a set of cams really perform well on the VVt motors. cams + 2.25" exhaust + headers = 300whp, or 360BHP. Rods will hold this level of hp but not much more.


I just realized the 3uz block can be interchanged with with 1uz vvt block... god I love interchangeability :).

what if i buy a 04 20k 2uzfe, would that be good just to bolt my stuff on to an be reliable.
 
In terms of ease of installation the 2uz will work fine, but you would need the trans, ecu and harness to "drop" it in. Also, David makes a set of custom mounts that allow the iron block to bolt right up to the SC.

Half cuts vary from state to state but I think a 100k or less VVT 1uz or 2uz should be around $2000-3000.
 
what if i buy a 04 20k 2uzfe, would that be good just to bolt my stuff on to an be reliable.

It is more complicated than that.

Engine mount different
ECU and accessorie plugs are different
FUSE box plugs are different
Transmission length might be different
Mounts are different


I would go with K.I.S.S.
 
well with the 4.7 i was just going to use the block & keep all my stuff, but i think i might just get the 4.3 & rebuild it to make it new. whats K.I.S.S. ?
 
I believe David has the swap parts needed to do the 4.7 into an earlier model 1uz but the VVTi is probably different and not as easy and possibly a huge headache.

In stock form the 3uz makes more power and is a direct interchange AFAIK.
 
Yea i think going with the 4.3 is going to be my best option. i wish i could rebuild the block b4 i installed it but toyota dont make oversize stuff,& i cant afford to go forged.
 
Yea i think going with the 4.3 is going to be my best option. i wish i could rebuild the block b4 i installed it but toyota dont make oversize stuff,& i cant afford to go forged.
You can still keep the stock rods & pistons if they're still ok. If you don't bore out too much, you'll only need new rings, maybe with aftermarket rings.
 
Ok so im head in a direction now. Im getting lex's 4.3, it shipping out tomorrow. I got a question. If my car stock 98sc400 has 10:8:1 compression, then after i install 1uz vvti head on a 430 block w/430 stock head gaskets then will the compression be the same or will it be alittle higher or lower slightly.
 


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