Engine Build Up

ToranaJudd

Member
Hey guys,

I picked up the engine from the machinist today. A little un-impressed with it, dont't get me wrong, machining work looks great (bore/hone and milled the heads/block) but the excess of swarf in the inlet ports and just generally all over it. Especially when I had paid for a Clea/wash of the components. But yeah, not worth taking back just for a re-clean so ill do it myself.

My general questions come down to the rebuild process. I want to assemble the engine with the new bits and pieces I have (Ross GB pistons/ Argo GB tods new bearings ARP stuff etc etc) but don't posses the knowlege of actually assembling the components. I have all the knowledge of how it goes together etc. But lack the experience in when and where to lubricate as I am assembling and with what? Gapping the piston rings (is there a tool to do this as i have seen it done with a file).

Just small fiddly things like that get me a bit scared. I want to do it right the first time and do not want to be pulling it apart and together again time after time when something is not right or could be done better.

I have noticed with the Ross pistons that there is not a Circlip/Snapring either side of the gudgeon pin but a recess to have one. Is this something I missed out on with my pistons, or were they not supplied? Maybe I can use the ones of the OEM pistons (if there is one). Can someone else that was in the GB clariffy what they used.

Also with balancing. I know the Pistons and Rods are balanced to each other, but when making assemblies out of Piston/Rod/Bearing it could throw the tolerences out a tad. Whats done here?

I have been looking into options to make the heads a better air flowing device. So in this i have ported the intake aggressivly and have taken the exhuast out mildy. Other than that, is there options for oversized valves? I have seen a few people experementing. but so far have not seen any solid progress. I will be using a Kelfords cam ( or 4 :) ) and some sort of custom intake (I like the idea of the ITB and then boxing the Flutes in) That would be awesome! I will be using either a GT4088R or something from the GT42R range, but still undecided.

For now I have a plane to depart, so after that ill jump back on and post some more up.

Cheers, Judd.
 

pops

New Member
take it back

Bring back and have machine shop clean it up; one little burr or scrap in oil passage or water passage and all your work and dreams are wasted. You cant possibly clean the engine as good as a prepped machine shop. This does not reflect good on their work or quality.
pops

I picked up the engine from the machinist today. A little un-impressed with it, dont't get me wrong, machining work looks great (bore/hone and milled the heads/block) but the excess of swarf in the inlet ports and just generally all over it. Especially when I had paid for a Clea/wash of the components. But yeah, not worth taking back just for a re-clean so ill do it myself.

My general questions come down to the rebuild process. I want to assemble the engine with the new bits and pieces I have (Ross GB pistons/ Argo GB tods new bearings ARP stuff etc etc) but don't posses the knowlege of actually assembling the components. I have all the knowledge of how it goes together etc. But lack the experience in when and where to lubricate as I am assembling and with what? Gapping the piston rings (is there a tool to do this as i have seen it done with a file).

Just small fiddly things like that get me a bit scared. I want to do it right the first time and do not want to be pulling it apart and together again time after time when something is not right or could be done better.

I have noticed with the Ross pistons that there is not a Circlip/Snapring either side of the gudgeon pin but a recess to have one. Is this something I missed out on with my pistons, or were they not supplied? Maybe I can use the ones of the OEM pistons (if there is one). Can someone else that was in the GB clariffy what they used.

Also with balancing. I know the Pistons and Rods are balanced to each other, but when making assemblies out of Piston/Rod/Bearing it could throw the tolerences out a tad. Whats done here?

I have been looking into options to make the heads a better air flowing device. So in this i have ported the intake aggressivly and have taken the exhuast out mildy. Other than that, is there options for oversized valves? I have seen a few people experementing. but so far have not seen any solid progress. I will be using a Kelfords cam ( or 4 :) ) and some sort of custom intake (I like the idea of the ITB and then boxing the Flutes in) That would be awesome! I will be using either a GT4088R or something from the GT42R range, but still undecided.

For now I have a plane to depart, so after that ill jump back on and post some more up.

Cheers, Judd.[/quote]
 

4000GT

New Member
Hang on... there are some schools of thought here on surfaces and flow... a more rough surface is said to break surface tension in the air and create turbulance and lesson the boundary layer effect. So before you say I want this perfectly smooth and shiney, make sure thats what you want!

In the bore, look for the hashing angle from the hone...
 
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