Engine Build Up (II)

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
So why did you decide to go 2UZ block instead of 3UZ block?

I would really like to make a 4.7L 3UZ if at all possible.

My brother is bringing my 2UZ from california today as a start on my RA29 project.
 
have you considered 2uz heads to take advantage of that extra flow? i think would be cheaper and easier than messing with custom valves, etc.
I didnt want to do a complete swap. I just want the simpliest way to increase cubic and stronger block. As I mentioned previous threads. If I use 2uzfe heads, then I would need 2uzfe lower and upper intakes, TB, Harness, ECU and other this. Basically its a complete swap. That is not what I am looking. I am just looking for 4.7L in a SC/LS400.

So why did you decide to go 2UZ block instead of 3UZ block? I would really like to make a 4.7L 3UZ if at all possible. My brother is bringing my 2UZ from california today as a start on my RA29 project.
3UZ block is only 4.3 liter vs. 4.7 liter and I want a stronger block. However, the block is about 82 lbs heavier. I think the 2uzfe with 3uzfe heads. However, the 3uzfe parts are hard to find and will be very expensive.

Please check UZFE Compatibility
 
I'd figure with this extreme of a build an intake and throttle body wouldn't be a big deal. So if you also speak of the extra trouble of the ecu/harness does that mean you are planning to run the stock Lexus ecu on this set-up?

I didnt want to do a complete swap. I just want the simpliest way to increase cubic and stronger block. As I mentioned previous threads. If I use 2uzfe heads, then I would need 2uzfe lower and upper intakes, TB, Harness, ECU and other this. Basically its a complete swap. That is not what I am looking. I am just looking for 4.7L in a SC/LS400.

3UZ block is only 4.3 liter vs. 4.7 liter and I want a stronger block. However, the block is about 82 lbs heavier. I think the 2uzfe with 3uzfe heads. However, the 3uzfe parts are hard to find and will be very expensive.

Please check UZFE Compatibility
 
I just want a block swap.. not an engine swap... From the advice of Ed and Wayne I redo my oil fitting system by using thread sealer. Here are some pictures. Looks alot better and hopefully it will work better too.
 
Here is an awesome 2uzfe block from my good friend Wayne. Here are the Pics of the 2UZFE short block attached. Came out very nice....custom forged Ross piston and ring combo, Eagle small block Chevy forged rods, ARP main studs, 1UZFE main caps, 2UZFE forged crank. As you can see, pistons are thermal coated on top and friction coated on the skirts. This block also got 4 bolt conversion too. Wayne plan to run Supercharger, turbo and NOS into this killer motor. We worked together and pioneering the Forged H beam.

Thanks Wayne for believing in me....
 
Hey, David...many thanks for the post and props. I have given you a new nickname which I believe fits, especially after seeing the pics of the exploding mufflers in another thread: You shall be henceforth known as "The Mad Scientist"....:eek:) I will tell you that, in addition to being a madman, I would probably still be floundering around trying to get my project going...you have been instrumental in getting me where I am and for that, I thank you. I will post more as progress continues....later...

Wayne
 
Do you guys noticed the piston face/design/configuration of the 2uzfe with 1uzfe heads:
Lexus_2uzfe_Lextreme_SC470TT%20008.jpg

Vs. the 2uzfe piston design with 2uzfe head:
attachment.php


They are both 8.5:1 with very similar setup. However, the heads will be drastically different. On the other hand I will be using Stage III heads. Over size valves, stronger valve springs assembly and cams.
 
valve reliefs

David...I noticed you only have two valve reliefs in your pistons...is the 1UZFE two-valve or 4-valve? If four valve, are the chambers a lot different than the 2UZFE?
 
The post 98 V8 engines (all) have similar design like yours (4 valve relief with 4 valves). However, pre 98 has two valve reliefs with 4 valves.
 
Here is another combo. This block have all the goodies I have but better. This shortblock have Carrillo H beam forged rods with SPS Carr rod bolts along with 4 bolt main conversion. The rest of the info I can not disclose but this shortblock will make some mean horses.
 
Also, SamB, keep in mind what the 2UZ is used in/for. My stock tundra is redlined at 5300 rpm (not for long, though....
icon10.gif
Not sure what it is redlined at in the Sequoia and other SUV's. It is a very strong engine for what it was designed for. I can tell you it wasn't designed for Superchargers and Nitrous....:happysad: :happysad: :happysad:

Wayne
 
WOW!! I knew it had an iron block but 2 bolts mains!!! how ordinary... :)
This is what Wayne was trying to say. He has the first hand experience with his engine blowing up. Currently I am building few sets of engine mounts out of 3/8" mild steel plate. Each plate is laser cut for accurancy and consistancy. There are 6 pieces of laser cut steel making up each mount. All 6 pieces are weld together in a jig for consistant fit. These mounts will be available to the public so they don't have to reinvent the wheel again. These mounts are for SC400 or LS400. It would not work with any other car or truck unless they have the same mounting position as the SC or LS. I will post some pictures once the last few pieces are done.
 
Yes it does. There are 3 rows of two holes on the side of the block. Lexus ultilized the first two rows (1,2) and Toyota Tundra utilized the first row and third row (1,3). Secondly the 2UZFE block's holes are little further apart. Its about 1/4" further. As you can see from the two pictures below. The 2UZFE stock engine mount is wider in mounting position at the same time its also shorter where it connects to the rubber engine mount with different angle. Therefore, 2UZFE stock mount would not work on SC400/LS400 chasis.
 
Ok,

Just got back a local machine shop and they cut my bracket wrong and they are going to redo it. However I took the bad one and mock it the alternator. Everything fits nicely but I still need to get a crew to stablize the other portion. I also test out the fan belt and with the tensioner everything clear. I also picked up 4 of the 6 pieces for the engine mounts. I just tag weld the 4 pieces together and will do more measurements to make the tope and bottom piece. After all 6 pieces are in, it will be tig weld for security and grind out any imperfection and then a coat of rust resistance paint. Doing those laser cut pieces are getting expensive too. Parts by itself is about $120 for each mount not including tig weld and paint. So we are looking at about $140 each and total would cost me around $280. Ouch.... Here are some pictures....
 


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