electric fan wiring f***** up

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sexy sam

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ok so i need help please help me. i have a 95 sc400 and i set up an electric fan the same way jibby did but i cant figure out the wiring. my first thermo switch burnt out. and my second. so i connect a switch and i ended up with more problems. it worked fine for 2 days but today the fuse blew. so i changed it... and it blew again. every fuse blew. with the car on and off. every fuse from a 10 to a 40.
what can i do?
how should i wire it?
whats the best positive to use?
what size wire should i use
thanks
sam
 
Stolen from "The Witzl" on toymods:

thermofandr9.jpg
 
Sorry Sam it didn't work out for you...I don't remember offering wire diagrams for the installation of electric fans on any of my fan posts, hmmm?... Maybe a comment or too about the ignition hookup..

I have had continued trouble in the past trying to implement the heat block sensor part of it...Finally I hooked up with an auto electriction and we got it right... Been good ever since.. Good insulated relay's are key.. MVP's diagram looks good to me...

It shouldn't be that hard just hard wiring the electric fans with a proper relay directly to the battery.. I used the green ignition wire originally to activate the (power) on and off functions with the electric fans..... That worked fine for years, but I got tired of the fans running when the car was cold..... Now, I got it just right with a good heat block sensor and relays... Just as good as stock.. When the engine heats up the fans turn on, if the engine is cold it stays off... I couldn't be happier with my cooling system...
 
Hi Jibby, Could you please post up a pic or a write up of how your fans are wired. We used a standard one relay setup to a thermoswitch and the fan worked for a day or so until the fan motor itself would smoke and burnout. We used a zirgo 16" 3000 cfm fans ran it to a relay and a maxi fuse. we used both setups found on this page http://aaroncake.net/RX-7/efaninstall.htm This is driving me nuts. And i apologize for sams idiotic title post he a good kid just very slow at times -.-

He also has the lextreme alternator and an optima red top.
 
Sam you're a buttnugget this is research YOU should have done long ago and the replacement parts should have been ordered DAYS ago. Sooo where are the parts sam?

For everyone else the is the last way we had the fan wired up

efaninstall2.gif

We used a zirgo 3000 cfm fan a 40 amp relay and a 30 amp fan fuse. Lextreme alternator and optima red top battery.

The first fan ran for about 2 weeks the second lasted only a day. Is teh dual relay setup shown on the toy\mods forum goin to help prevent voltage spikes to the fan?
 
Ok, I just took some pictures of my wiring job... Basically the pictures are going to be hard to determine the wiring... If you look close enough at each you maybe able to figure it out... Wires come up from the bottom of the fan directly to a mounted Bosche 4 prong relay... Then it fans out to the battery, a couple of fuses, ignition, heat sensor... Then you will see the lone thin black ignition wire that goes right into the big box... That is the ignition source...

Hope this helps and doesn't confuse you more... I can try to explain further if your interested... There is a block heat sensor wire that can't be seen.. The ignition hookup shuts down the fans when the car is turned off...

My wiring job is very simular to the diagrams illustrated above..Just find the ignition source in the big black box and the hardest part is done...

If it gets all too confusing just go with basics like hooking the fans directly fans to battery as a test starter then go from there... Step by step..

Here are the pics..
 
lol I had no idea this could get this crazy. i used (2) 14'' hayden electric fans w/o any relay.... w/o any switch... just plain old ignition + ground and have had this for a year now w/o any issues. I can already hear the firing squad at the last sentence but if you make sound connections and cover your ass it's sound. I don't ever have my fans off but thats the tradeoff. They were even drenched in water when a rogue summer storm hit town and my fans started smoking from the rain. I thought it was doomed until I took the wiring apart only to find it wsn't the rain but high gauge wires that should have been fatter. I spliced the main ignition wire from the bottom of the fuse box plate and soldered all connections and used electrical + lots of split loom.

Bottom line: 1hour to install fans + wiring and very basic to troubleshoot (have never had an issue yet and i have absolutely no plastic undercarriage covers either). the fans themselves are sealed units but the connections is the issue, you can be your own hero or nightmare.
 
It can even get crazier if you have dual fans and want to run them independently from one another..

Such as one fan set to activate at a slightly higher temperature then the other...Two heat sensor sources... I didn't take it that far...

Both of my fans work in conjuntion with one another... I figured less wiring and heat sensors then maybe less problems.... So no secondary fan activation action for me, they both just turn on and turn off together.......
 
I wire mine differently.I only use the relay to switch to earth so it doesnt carry any major current.I run a big power wire with correct fuse from the battery to the fans.The negative of the fan goes to the relay so it switched to ground.

Same also for the control side(allthough this way has to be done for the computer)I run a power straight of the main power feed to the realy and the computer switches it to ground at the right temp.If using a normal temp switch i would replace the computer side of things with the switch.
 
I wire mine differently.I only use the relay to switch to earth so it doesnt carry any major current.I run a big power wire with correct fuse from the battery to the fans.The negative of the fan goes to the relay so it switched to ground.

"I only use the relay to switch to earth so it doesnt carry any major current."
... yes it does.
 
As much as if it was wired in the power side??My electrical skills aint the best.Anyway,the thing works thats all i care about,although it popped the fuse after i wired it to run the second speed all the time,only happened once though bigger fused fixed it right up.
 
Hello Guys - How about a few comments to stir things up.
Running fans all the time works but will wear the fans out faster. I do not know of any vehicle manufacturer that rans their electric fans all the time. Constant running increases warming up time of the engine and fuel consumption. There is also the horsepower loss arguement.
Different fans need different power requirements. Most large fans should ran fine with 30 amp rated wiring and fuses. Our 10inch fans (wired in pairs) use a 20 amp fuse. I have have one fan that spiked to 28amps on startup and then dropped back when running. It is easy to test with the correct gear.
If there are major spikes then a capacitor should help. The wiring on MWPs post is good but the second relay is a changeover relay. A changeover relay has an 87 and 87A terminal which do not have continuity.
Guys an earth wire can carry as much current as the power wire.
I believe the USDM SC400 has the hydralic fan with cooling system ECU and sender. Has anyone tried using the factory trigger for the solenold as the switching for the electric fan relay. Its already there and should control the temperature switching fine if the system is in good condition. It may be the easiest way to make it all work.
With one of our present conversions we will have the Link G4 storm ECU control the fan but want to have a manual override for switching on and switching off if the vehicle comes up to deep mud or water as it's a 4x4 compitition truck. Even with these requirements there will not be a problem.

Cheers
 

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I have ONE 40 amp relay and a diode between air con so they switch on when compressor does... Diode is required to stop air con turning on when fans turn on.. My ECU is set to come on at 85*, also runs for 45 seconds after turning key off to prevent heat soak from turbo's etc..
 
When I deleted my hydraulic pump I did look at the stock trigger and cylinoid as being complementory for the electric fans... I just never went for it, as I thought it may not work...

Great idea gloverman and XR8tt as that would be a very reliable heat sensor source if implemented.to the electric fans..... I wish I would have played around with that idea a little more at the time.....
 
Could it just be that the fans i had wired up were less than Quality? The wiring never ran hot to the relays or fuse but the wires on the fan itself would and eventually the fan motors themselves would burn out. The second fan lasted even less time than the first did.
 
Dude, what fans did you use?..They shouldn't have burned out even with a direct neg and poss lead to the battery I would think...

When I first did my fans, I took the negative wire and positive wire and touched them to the battery leads just to see if they work.. Once I established power then I hooked up the relay and ignition and that was it...Not really that hard man....
 
Zirgo 16" single fan. They flowed 3000 cfm. We ordered a perma-cool high performance "finger chopper" And are waiting for it to arrive. The zirgos were "high performance" but they looked standard fans. I have never had any fan burn out even when directly connected to a battery from pos to neg. that's why i was so confused and wanted to double and triple check the wiring setup.
 


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