Crank trigger question

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cjsupra90

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Lakeland, Florida - US
Does anyone know if the post 98 (1,2,or 3) UZ engine's have the same crank trigger wheel as the pre 98 1UZ engines? If they are different, can someone take a picture of the later wheel so I can see what or how they are different.
 
I dont think its part of the timing gear. I think its the same way as the pre-98 design. Its most likely be a wheel that is independent from the timing belt gear. I am getting one for John this week and I will take some pictures.
 
Thanks, it would be greatly appreicated if you could get a few pictures. One things though, do you recall if it is fairly thin out at the triggering teeth like the pre 98 design or was it significantly thicker?
 
I think post 98 is 32-2 and pre 98 is 12-1

cjsupra90 I think post 98 is 36-2 (being 1 tooth per 10 degrees) and pre 98 is just 12. There is no minus 1 as think it takes TDC from the cam sensors.

I'm not sure of the post 98 design but can tell you the pre 98 is dished about 5mm to 7mm approx from memory, so chances are post 98 could be similar so if you're trying to fabricate a replacement of some kind it might not be that straight forward.

Hope that's helpful
Mark
 
I am not concerned with the tooth count or anything like that (its going to be moddified if I think that it will work). What I am more or less worried about is whether or not, if installed on an earlier engine, will it line up with the original crank sensor hole, how thick it is out at the trigger teeth and lastly, if installed on a earlier motor, is it going change the dampener/pully location.

Seeing some pictures of it would give me a lot better idea as to whether or not I think that it would work for what I am needing. I can make the earlier wheel work, but I am thinking that it would be easier to use the later unit depending on its design.
 
Igetchya!

Some else here gave me this link, thought it might be handy if you need something making up. I emailed him a query and basically he can make anything up fairly easily. Sorry I can't help you with a later trigger wheel dimensions.

http://www.triggerwheels.com/
 
Thanks for the link, good thing to know about. What I am needing is actually very simple. Its not a toothed wheel at all though, it will actaully have magnets imbedded in it cause its a Hall Effect trigger. I could simply put them in the back side of the ballancer as I have in the past, but I thought that it would be nice to actually have it concealed as if it were stock. My plans are to make the Hall sensors mount in an aluminum blank that's installed just as the stock crank sensor is.

The first try at the trigger wheel was a goof up. I welded a peice of 1/4" walled, 1/4" thick, 4" diameter pipe to the face of the pre 98 wheel. The problem is that once machined to be perfectly concentric with the center hole, it ends up being to thin (id/od relationship). So my options are to get another pre 98 wheel and this time go with 3/8" wall pipe and spend more time centering it as best as possible before welding in on or the other thing that I was thinking was the later wheel should be thicker and therefore if I machined the teeth off and machined a ring that would be pressed onto the machined stock wheel and fusion tack welded in 6 spots around the diameter, it would be in my eyes an all around better unit.
 
Is adjustable really needed? Sure it sounds brilliant at first thought... but on second thoughts....

It could be a real hassle and nightmare if it slipped? How secure would it be? Would it not be easier to just supply the wheel with maybe a number of embossed marks at the centre where the user can file out a keyway to fit the crank at the appropriate degrees?

Just a thought.
 
Adjustability isn't really needed if all you plan to use this with is an EDIS8, but others may have different ignitions or ECU's they want to use, and it might be handy to have adjustability at the source of the signal.

It shouldn't slip; this is a low inertia wheel that doesn't drive anything. Using a similar fastening arrangement as adjustable cam gears should make it pretty solid.

If anyone has their engine on a stand and wants to contribute to this, we're looking for two pieces of information currently.

1) If you're facing the front of the engine, what is the precise angle of the crank pickup sensor from 12 o'clock?

2) With #1 at TDC, what is the precise position of the keyway in the crankshaft, from 12 o'clock?

This information needs to be pretty precise, so if you have one of the old Moon degree wheels it would really come in handy for this.
 
Mine's stripped and on a stand, and if I can find an old protrator I take a measurement. If I can't I'll atleast take a picture.

If some one beats me to it, I suggest taking the degree measurement through the centre line of the sensor mount for accuracy.
 
location points as requested. (these are spot-on, verified from both a timing belt gear and also a modified cam degree wheel)

cyl#1 @TDC
Keyway = 45deg from 12 o'clock position
crank sensor hole center = 135deg from 12 o'clock
 
CJ that's perfect - many thanks for that. You went clockwise from 12 o'clock with those measurements, right?

In other words, the keyway is falling between 1 and 2 o'clock, and the crank sensor is between 4 and 5 o'clock?

I knew the crank sensor was down there around 4 o'clock somewhere.....

John
 


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