Code 22

[Zuffen]

I had a play today.

I started with a new 3rd 40 pin plug with 300mm of wire attached. This got rid of a pretty ratty one that came with the engine.

Removed all unused wires and inserted the yellow pins so it looks nice. This left me 8 wires in the plug.

At the moment I can't get the MRel pin to supply power to power up the ISCV etc.

I hot wired the ISCV etc.

The car will try to start but won't continue to run.

Any ideas why I'm not seeing any signal on the MRel pin?

The CEL lights up on the ignition and flashes continuously when the button is pressed.

There can't be anything major wrong in my wiring or it wouldn't try and start.

I'm open to suggestion's.

 

[Zuffen]

Ok,

It was getting the better of me so I went back out (with beer in hand) and discovered the MRel pin wasn't making contact.

Replaced the wire and terminal (temporarily) with another I had removed earlier.

MRel now operates as it should and shuts power down a second or two after the key is turned off.

This means I have power to the ISCV etc. plus the igniters etc. are getting the power they want.

Still the engine will fires a few times and dies.

The cold start injector is on the same circuit as the other injectors so it should be working.

A bit hard to test as the plug is inaccessible unless I remove the manifold.

One last question for the experts. Does the fuel pump feed (the pink wire) pull down to earth when the ignition is on? I've never seen power out of it (or any other UZ's) and as a lot ECU's pull to earth I thought this may also apply.

I'd rather run the fuel pump through the ECU than off the ignition as this is the sort of car that could end up laying on its back at some point in time.

If all else fails I may try some ether to see if it is a cold start problem, but it was starting yesterday just not running well.

 

[Zuffen]

Now I'm answering my own posts!

This is my fourth post in a row without anyone else having a say. It must be a record or just shows my stupidity.

After my last post I decided to have a shower and give it away for the day and settle down with a nice red.

Whilst in the shower I was thinking about what I'd done today and it occurred to me I probably didn't plug the igniter back in after checking it for power.

Zipped into the garage, plugged it back in and the car started immediately.

Tomorrow morning I'll give a run and see if anything has changed.

Now for that red wine.

 

[pajman]

Always the simple things come back to bite mate !!

 

[cribbj]

Congrats Rod, bet that red was the best tasting glass of wine in a long time!

Hope it runs well for you today (or tomorrow).

 

[Zuffen]

Hi John,

Whilst I'm a bit "over it" I just want it to run reliably so I can do some off-road work with my sons and their friends.

If I was smarter I would have stuck with the original Crown engine I had in it that ran really well and just sorted the transmission and axles and I'd be where I am now but 5 years earlier and about $50,000 better off.

Oh well, it was fun and if I hadn't done it I only would have argued with Helen more!

Now let's see your supercharged engine run.

 

[cribbj]

Now let's see your supercharged engine run.

Soon as I get the Fcar back on the road

Took it down for a leaky P/S hose, decided to do the "major" while I was at it, then found the valve guides were shot in both heads (after only 15K miles). Seems to be a common issue with Ferrari engines built in the 90's. So after getting both heads rebuilt and the ports cleaned up a bit, and of course putting some Ti retainers in there just for fun, I'm now putting things back together, albeit very slowly. I'm an 8-5'er these days and working in our home office, so I don't get as much time to play with the toys as when I was 4/4 in Algeria.

 

[sideshow]

its prob still not wired properly going by what u wrote

ign power from key to injectors and to ignitors and to igsw pin on ecu
nothing else just that

then efi relay power to +b terminals on ecu and diag plug and to iscv and to auto if it has
nothing else

mrel to trigger efi relay

batt to bat wire on ecu

start signal to starter motor and to cold start injector ( u said u have cold start joined with injector power???)

that's is the simplest and best way to wire it

people start running a million relays for all this shit and it gets complicated

piss of the fuel pump module and run a tachometric relay for fuel pump

u should have asked me for a 40 pin plug
I got afew good ones

 

[sideshow]

40 40 40 pin ecus don't run a normal trigger for fuel pump relay
I can sell u a custom mode tachometric relays I get made up for most Toyotas
they have a neg trig instead of a pos trig like most gas ones
otherwise just goto an lpg shop and get a pos trigger one

 

[Zuffen]

Jim,

I picked up the ECU and body plugs for $10.00 at Pick & Payless so I have plenty of spare terminated wires and all the little yellow plugs I could ever want!

I have it as you described. My bad on the cold start injector.

I use 3 relays, EFI, Fuel and start.

I do have a 4th relay that I don't use but I put it there in case I wanted it for any other reason, plus it makes the board symetrical.

What are your tachometric relays worth as I'd rather support you then the local LPG man.

PM me if you'd rather.

 

[Zuffen]

I drove around 30k's today and things are looking good.

This morning it would die immediately after it fired a few times.

I checked for power at the injectors and had none.

I worked out the 4 injector wires weren't making contact at the ECU so tightened those pins and the car runs nicely.

The only thing is I still have my CEL when driving but it goes away when I turn the engine off only to re-appear after a few hundred metres of driving.

The engine revs well, idles well and all round is pleasant to drive.

Any suggestions on the CEL (other than removing the bulb!) would be welcomed.

 

[George_R]

as per above
tighten the TC / TE1 pin and read the bloody DTCs

 

[Zuffen]

The TE1 pin wasn't making contact.

Once sorted the CEL went away.

Took it for a short drive and it didn't come on again.

There are no fault codes in the computer and the car is running really well.

Going to take it on an extended drive later this morning (in traffic and a bit of freeway work) to see how it goes.

To all who offered advice thank it was starting to get me down.

 

[George_R]

Zuffen, that sounds a bit weird. Make sure CEL's pin (marked W) is still making contact. The CEL must come on every time you turn the ignition on. Also, when you bridge TE1 to E1 it must blink at high rate indicating there's no DTCs

 

[Zuffen]

George,

I'll double check it as I have a CEL light with ignition on and it will blink rapidly if I press the test button, but doesn't go into the code sequence so there mustn't be any codes to show.

 

[George_R]

That's exactly how it should be. I just was confused with your post #33

Once sorted the CEL went away.

I thought you were saying the CEL went away completely, without even showing up when ignition is on.

 

[sideshow]

hey Rod

I sent the relay yesterday

 

[sideshow]

u could even remove the tps connector while running and see if the cel light comes on
this will tell u ecu is working fine

 

[Zuffen]

Jim,

Smart move I'll do that today.

 

[Zuffen]

The car finally decided to give me a fault code.

Code 42 is coming up which is Vehicle Speed Sensor.

Seeing mines manual it may explain the code.

I note it makes no difference to the operation of the engine but it would be nice to make the light go out.

Can I replicate the VSS to fool the ECU?

Any suggestions?