Centrifugal install, lemme see those fuseboxes

[Matt300ZXT]

Since I still can't decide between centrifugal, roots, or just a 1JZ swap, lemme see your centrifugal installs. The main deterrent that's kinda pushing me away from that is the few I've seen, the fuse box looks uber sloppy afterwards...kinda just hanging there and looking rigged. I'd like to see if someone has found a way to build a bracket to fasten it back down or something like that. I suppose moving the battery to the trunk doesn't really bother me, just don't want my engine bay looking sloppy afterwards.

The big plus going FOR the centrifugal install is I can run a more traditional intercooler rather than trying to do some sort of water to air cooler or meth injection or something...that just sounds like a little too much for a daily driver that I don't want to make buttloads of hp on anyways.

 

[spf_lexus]

I have built 2 centifugal setups, 1 LS400 and 1 SC400. For the SC, the box can be moved 90 degrees and thats it. If you can deal with lengthening he entire fuse box wire-by-wire it can be moved to the other side of the engine bay, behind the power steering cooler or into the cab but to be blunt, there are zero "quick fixes" for the fuse box.

Here's my SC' build: http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13651 Its not clean by any means. I moved the box 90 degrees and tied it to the large loom running along the fender to keep it away from the blower belt. When I get home from school and have time I plan to wire up my adaptonic and relocate the box atthe same time.

Forum member kc95sc400 managed to shave a little bit of plastic of his lid and managed to close the hood around it.

Hope this helps a bit.

 

[Lextreme II]

centifugal is the easiest.... and the least down time.

 

[Matt300ZXT]

Hmm, never considered lengthening the wires and moving the box. Anyone tackled something like that before?

 

[spf_lexus]

Its not too bad. If your decent at soldering you could probably re-locate everything in in a single day. just make sure you use high grade wire with thick jackets with equal gauge wire and use a liberal amount of shrink tube. You will also need some 2-4 gauge wire to connect to your battery or distribution block (depending on length). A small tip if you go this route, dont cut/solder all the wires in the same location or else you'll have a super thick part of the new loom thats all shrink tube. best to staggar the connections a few inches apart to keep the thickness of the loom manageable.

Aside from the chore of moving the box, there really isnt much else left to get the car boosted. Use a stock UZ timing belt idler for the top serp. belt idler and your on the road.

 

[jen3ss]

It's a pretty straight forward job, if you push the wires into each other instead of twisting them together the loom will end up about the same size, you will need a fairly hot iron to do the thicker wires.

 

[lexplay]

ill have to put pictures up later but mine is now bolted under where the battery tray use to be. its bolted upside down so i can still check the fuses if i jack up my car but i did not have to cut any wires to do this. leaves lots of room for the charger and intake.