Autronic sm2 issues

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

JustenGT8

New Member
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2,432
Location
Canberra, Australia
Hopefully someone is still up to date on this old clunker of an ECU :)

I have gone to a VVTi engine from my old non VVTi setup. I have also wired in an 500r CDI box and I'm using Honda CDI CoP. Sideshow redid the loom for me and at this stage I'm assuming he got it right.

Buggered if I can get it to fire though :( on totally in correct flag mode settings it will fire out of sync so I'm pretty sure all the hardware is working.

With flag mode 13 set at 129 for missing teeth sensor
Flag mode 14 set at 9 to suit the 36-2 VVTi crank trigger wheel
Flag mode 15 sort at 3 to set the sync adjustment ie at 60 deg BTDC the cam trigger is 3 crank teeth (30 deg) off its sensor.

Not a hint of firing with those settings :(

I think there is a setting elsewhere I have missed but my manual has been no use and I'm out of ideas?

Anyone?
 
Have you had a timing light onto it to see where the firing is actually occurring? Is the ECU registering a RPM which is about right when cranking?
With the ECU I most commonly use I set the sync 235btdc which might be worth a try. Sync occurs 4 degrees off the actual tooth I believe but I adjust one more degree to give more stable timing across the entire range. The difference may just be in the software but this way works out at 120 degrees plus a little bit.
 
Thanks Gloves, but this is the problem with the early autronics...you can actually insert a crank degree to set the sync adjustment. You use these surrogate flag modes, which are quite limited and make troubleshooting a nightmare.

The ECU crank signal i get with the 'correct' ECU settings is only half actual cranking rpm? It's a 36-2 crank trigger wheel, the ECU needs a 4 tooth trigger wheel. The adjustment calc is a simple divide by 4 (including missing teeth) so you input 9 into that flag mode.....couldn't be simpler, unless it doesn't work and then you are rooted ;)

I'm flying solo so no timing light on the thing yet as i need another pair of hands.

I'm thinking there is another setting i have missed somewhere that will make what i have done work as it should....coil number, recognising it's now the CDI, something?
 
Justen, I was thinking at the box level too. Can you do something to isolate the problem either to the main ECU or the CDI box? Perhaps configure the ECU to spark the coils directly, or through an external ignitor just for a test?
 
I can't really do any of that easily john unfortunately.

I spoke to the local Autronic guru today and his suggestion is upgrade to the lastest chip we can get in it....only $150 fir the chip and he will install for nicks. At least then we can set lead angles etc in some logical way....plus a few other bonuses from the new chip.

I obtained the injector user defined specs today which reduced the cranking fuelling a heap. It half heartedly tried to fire but it's clearly still not right.
 
Justen,

As we all know the UZ's don't like fouled plugs.

Could yours be fouled by all the start attempts?

Would an alternative set of plugs be worth a try?
 
Yes I should check all the simple stuff too I guess eh. E85 is gentle on plugs though and there's still this screwy mismatch in rpm signal I have. ECU is reading half actual rpm so it's not ready that crank trigger correctly I don't think?
 
problems just reinforces why I sold my engine.

It just never ran the same two days in a row!

Out of curiosity why didn't you use my SM4?
 
Yeah good question, i'm wondering that myself now seeing it's still sitting on my workbench. In short i was in a rush to get to that standing 1000m event last year and couldn't afford the time to do a full rewire...in hindsight :rolleyes:
 
It runs!! I worked my way thru a series of issues, the final one being the dodgy pricks i bought the injectors from sold me 550s not the 1000s i ordered....with the base fuel calibration you use in the Autronic it was running way lean and obviously wouldnt start. Once i twigged to that and reset the fuel cal it fired first go :)

:) was shortly followed by :( though. Engine has a dirty great knock? Oil pressure it very healthy and the knock seems to be top end? I don't think the seller is on here any more and doubt he'd have much to say seeing it was sold as a runner with no issues :rolleyes: very disappointing when you get ripped off by a forum that's supposed to be about helping like minded enthusiasts :( I guess i should hold my disgust in check until i solve what the noise actually is, but it doesn't sound good...with Ross pistons i don't think it could be piston slap?
 
I learnt a long time ago never trust anyone to supply the parts you requested.

Always double check what you've been given.

I've had too many of your experiences over the years.

Good luck with it.
 
Here's the pm i sent TTlex as part of my decision making:

hiya,
It looks like Chris and i could be close to working out a deal for this engine.

As i'm in Australia there's always a bit of nervousness about a long distance sale. Seeing you have sold it already and therefore have no investment in this deal, i was hoping to press you for as many honest details on this engine as possible?

eg. - a full parts list eg does it come with coils, accessories etc
- and any machine work done in the build
- how much this work set you back?
- boost were were running?
- was it ever dyno'd?
- any known issues?
- etc

I'm realistic about a used engine so this is just about walking into the sale with my eyes open :wink:

I'd really appreciate your input to help me make the final call....as will chris no doubt when it sells :wink:

I was pretty open about my expectations i think?
 
Yup that's the one...with the sump off it also looked kosha. There was quite a bit of oil in the intake I thought was weird but there is no blow by when running and comp on the cyls I have tested is fine. It all looks good bar the clanging of hammers once running :(
 


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