Are all 1UZ crank sensors the same? Look the same, but different part numbers?

[StavFC]

As title really.

I've been having crank signal/sensor problems (running an aftermarket ECU running no cam sensors, and won't start if can't pick up a crank signal), and to see if it was something to do with the crank sensor, I changed the one on the car for one on a spare 1UZ I had.

With the other one fitted, the car wouldn't start at all.

The sensors look identical, but have different numbers, and one is from a UK spec Lexus LS400, and the other is from a Japanese spec Soarer V8.

Part numbers for the working CAS is-
90919-05035
029600-0790
2C19

The non-working one is-
90919-05002
029600-0070
11L20

Should they both work on the same engine and is the non-working one just faulty, or?

Cheers

 

[cribbj]

I've mixed and matched VR crank sensors and not had issues, however I've also tried Hall sensors with only limited success. I haven't given up on the Hall's, however.

I like the Honeywell Hall's that you referenced in your other thread - they do come in various configurations that "should" work fine.

 

[StavFC]

I like the Honeywell Hall's that you referenced in your other thread - they do come in various configurations that "should" work fine.

That would be nice- It's all been a bit of a nightmare so far! I'll be putting a bit more effort in to finding out what is what regarding the Honeywell Hall sensor next week- To be honest I know very little about electronics, but seems to me the 'experts' I've been paying to sort the electronics know feck all either, so it's time for me to learn!

 

[stevieg]

Quick question, you're running just the crank trigger? Have you converted it to a missing tooth config? Cause stock they're just 12 every spaced teeth and nothing to tell the ecu it's completed a revolution. I'm running stock crank and passenger side crank trigger for TDC reference

 

[gloverman]

I have only ever had one issue with a crank sensor on aftermarket ECU myself. The Dwell went crazy as a result until the ignitors exploded. Swapped back to stock 1uz ignitors and they would heat up and shut down. After cool down they will restart fine. Scoped the pattern of the crank sensor and it was crazy. The amplitude of the signal was not consistant. Turned up the customer had bent the trigger wheel when doing the cambelt. I always run the cam sensor with shielded wire. The main ECU I run are Link.

Crank sensors are commonly accused of failing with stock ecus so I do an exchange system. I ask the customer to bring the old one in, I flick the one out of my truck and start it and take it for a drive. I then suggest they keep looking. I have seen a few physically broken. Sometimes with cracks down the sides.

I've had quite a few customers with megasquirts having interferance issues. Not the sensor itself but the wiring.

Have you had a scope on the Crank sensor? Are you able to adjust the trigger voltage? Or sensitivity?

 

[George_R]

Tried a bunch of crank angle sensors when I had starting issues with my own conversion. When everything was sorted out, engines off JDM UCF11 / UCF21 VVTi both pulled fine with crank sensors interchanged between them